thought I’d post this because I can’t find an example of a 1A in the reference gallery with a silver painted tank. It’s well used, just been hit with break cleaner (the marks are surface rust or very tough grime). All parts of the tank and hood attract a magnet.
The pump ‘looks’ like it belongs to the lantern. The silver finish is very like the tank cap, and the thread is a perfect fit for the tank. Just checked with the magnet and the pump rod is steel, which also seems to match the lantern generally.
This is the first time I have seen a 1A of this variation in steel. This variation should be from the late 60s or 70s (no evidence for this), so I would have expected only brass.
Hi Thats interesting. I have a similar Aladdin that I am pulling down now. Same control and pump knobs. Tank is painted silver, but chromed underneath the paint. I thought it was home painted and was going to strip it off, but looks like it may be a factory finish looking at yours. It also has the same carry handle without the loop at the top. (Lamp on right) Cheers Michael
@Zigfire The first thing to do is check if the tank is steel or brass. Use a magnet. If it is brass, then I would suspect that it is the 'normal' nickel or chrome plate that someone has painted over.
Is this likely to be chrome plated brass as well? I've had fairly poor results with Silvo, unfortunately! Love your collection... envious!
It will be either chrome on brass or nickel on brass. "Autosol" is the best polish for most lamp finishes. Tony
. Thanks Damien. I've had these lamps for years. Had the urge to do something about them so joined this group. If you look into the tank through the filler hole with a small torch you should be able to see it's soldered brass (if the tank is non magnetic of course). As Tony says, Autosol is a great product available from auto stores. Mothers metal polish is also very good. You'll need a can of elbow grease as well. Cheers Michael
Thanks Tony and Zig. I'm also needing to clean/open the top nozzle, which is apparently 0.18mm diameter or there abouts. I've found copper wire small enough but no where near sturdy enough. Can I get steel wire that small? I've thrown a pic of the top nozzle... does it require a gasket or o ring?
@Damien Be careful not to enlarge the jet in the nipple. The vapouriser should have a pricker in it. It’s a very small hole, and the pricker wire is about 0.14mm. It does not require a washer. Tight, but do not overtighten. Tony
A couple of times I've had jets that were plugged tight, bent the proper pricker wire. I have some small wire brushes here. I have found by cutting an individual wire off and using it to clear the orifice from the outside in. It has worked both times for me with no damage done. The wire is strong enough not to bend. I have not tried this operation on a Aladdin jet.
Thx Tony. I'm fairly sure it's gummed up... resin cum varnish type stuff. Do most of you just replace the whole needle/prick cleaner assembly? I've still got about 12 to 15mm of the 0.14 wire on the top of the prick cleaner thingy.
You can get stainless steel acupuncture needles in various sizes. That's what I use when I make my own cleaning needles.
Hi Damien, I'm no expert but what I did was soak the jet in thinners over night then blew it with compressed air. This removed some gunk. I then heated the jet to a dull red, just with one of those kitchen souffle burners and quenched it in water. Did this a few times and it burnt/blew out the gunk nicely. If you start prodding with wire etc you may damage the orifice. There is no gaset with the jet, just tighten down snuggly. Cheers Michael
Yes you can, very carefully, but assess whether you have to or not. I had to do mine as it was locked tight. Tried to manipulate it best I could but ended up snapping the brass rod just in front of the knob, so now I need to make an extension or get a new one. Between the two gland nuts is alot of packing that seals the control rod from leaks under pressure. If the knob turns okay and doesn't leak I would probably advise, based on my experience, to leave well enough alone. If it is stuck and doesnt turn, then go easy on it. You need to undo the nut between the front nut and the knob. The control rod slips forward through front nut after undoing the nut on the knob. You may want to soak it in pentrating oil for a while or some thinners. I ended up tapping mine through gently, without damaging the knob thread on the end of the rod. Cheers Michael
Cheers. I'll probably need some thinners. I've got Diggers mineral turps, pur gum turps, wax and grease remover, metho, boiled linseed, natural linseed, ... no thinners!! I've also got Diggers acetone... is that any good? I should have shares in the company.
Bit sceptical of those toluene substances... not against them, just wary of the toxicity. Thanks for the tip.
