Looking at my collection of Tilleys, ranging from a PL53 to the ubiquitous X246B I've noticed a wide range of different pump types. I recently realised that one of mine is of a quite different style to the others and I wondered if there is a chronology to the pumps styles... or is there another way of categorizing them.? Here are mine in no specific order although I tried to range them from oldest to youngest, but this was purely on guesswork/aesthetics! The first is from a PL53. It fits over an external thread on the font and all other types that I've seen fit inside an internal thread on the font, although I don't have access to a pork pie, or any of the table lamps or flood lights. This model has embossed writing around the face of the securing ring. The next seems to be commonly fitted to most Guardsman lanterns I've seen and looks very similar to the earlier PL53 pump but has no lettering on any of my examples. Same as above and also from a Guardsman is the nickel plated version to go with the nickel plated font. This example has a little plating loss round the sharper edges, probably due to continuous use over the years. Next is the 'Bat Wing' or 'wing-nut' type, also seen on Guardsman lanterns quite often. I love the castellations around the pump tube cover! But is the Bakelite handle original or has this been fitted to replace a brass original? Next is one I'm particularly curious about. It's unlike all the others because the securing ring is soldered permanently to the pump tube and the ring is much thinner than any other model I've seen, even the later aluminium types. Does anyone know anything about these? Mine is fitted to another Guardsman but has it migrated from another lantern altogether? The next has a simpler design and mine is fitted to an X246A. The next two are made from aluminium, the only difference being the knurling around the securing ring, but I believe this is simply an example of poor workmanship and a lack of quality control. If I remember my 'O' Level Metalwork correctly, once you have begun knurling a component, you can't go back and try again if it goes wrong, so I suspect anything with a texture was passed to cut down on waste materials! The first example shows what happens if insufficient pressure is used when using the knurling tool. The sharp points on the tool do not impress themselves into the surface deeply enough, It looks OK-ish but it's a poor job. If I was shown this by a pupil I'd make them do it again! Only a D- this time Jenkins! Much better job. Give that pupil an A! Good, crisp indentations and no double over-marking- this is where someone tries to correct a poor job and ends up with two knurling patterns, one over the top of another and it looks awful! Apart from aluminium alloys being a relatively poor choice of material for small components such as these, the increased surface area created by the knurling makes them corrode at an accelerated rate if they are not kept dry. Of course, I doubt anyone thought about this back in the day, or if they did, they probably didn't care! A short, stubby wing-nut design would have been better.
Hi ColinG, I just wondered if you can help me please? I need expertise. I have found bargain price X246B with brass pump. I have one already with aluminium one but I stuck with this. I cannot unscrew plunger cap from pump body. I do not want to damage it forcing it with tools. Is any trick or difference to aluminium pump stopping me to do so? Or simply dirt welded it together? Thank you.
I would expect brass components to be easier than aluminium in most circumstances but lanterns get left in bad places and can get very corroded, specially where two mating surfaces are concerned. When dealing with pump tubes, holding them securely while trying to unscrew the cap is very tricky as the brass wall of the tube is quite thin. I have made wooden holding jigs consisting of a hole just a fraction smaller than the tube diameter and then cut the wood in half so you can fit the pump into it and clamp the wood in a vice. Before doing this you should try something like a penetrating oil to lubricate the mating surfaces. Bear in mind that the hole should be very slightly smaller than the diameter that you are trying to hold. Also, if you make the hole in the wood fit the threaded portion at the top of the pump tube you will probably get a better grip. Once this is done and you can hold the tube firmly you can use mechanical methods to loosen the cap, probably using a piece of protective leather and a pair of pliers or mole grips to hold the cap while turning it. Hope this helps.
PS. I have used this method to free various different circular components and it usually works. I have a pile of these split jigs in my workshop for holding various different Tilley, Bialaddin and Vapalux components. Also once the hole is drilled you can either cut the jig completely in half or leave some of it still attached as shown below. I try to use a hard wood to get a better grip and less compression of the wood fibres.
Excellent advice there and well thought of, it's interesting to see what people come up with by using their Brains.
@ColinG It looks like you like all your vices ....... I must admit there are a few vices that I’m partial too, one of them is lanterns and another ......... Cheers mate Pete
@Groggy The pumps get glued together buy old fuel, oil and rubber seals. I regularly soak a pump in acrylic paint thinners overnight before trying to dismantle it. It removes the old fuel lacquer and softens the old seals
I’m not sure whether you really do need a vice, @Groggy, but a vise is very useful for this work. Cheers Tony
