I got this lantern and after a solid clean in acetone and other actions I got it lit. Used Veritas two-tied mantles. Somewhat yellowish I would say. Any tips on other two-tied mantles..? To the topic- it burned ok.Fairly good light. Pumped it greatly and then turned the control wheel a few times. An observation then was that the mantle still somewhat glowed when the wheel was shut in position. This does not happen with my other lanterns.. Well, a couple of minutes later after having turned the wheel to OPEN- the lantern start to flicker and putting out some flames to the degree that I am afraid of the safety of the glass. I had to release the pressure to have them flames dissapear of course. Why is this problem? The needle and jet I am using is brand new ones (From Fogas- using their 1020 kit). Kindly Henrik
Jets can slacken off and that causes problems, perhaps you should check that and use some type of thread lock paste. Your lantern may need extra pre heating.
I wonder if the pricker needle height needs adjusting - raising. If too low the jet orifice will partially block and produce symptoms such as you describe with a failure to maintain vapourisation.
With the rack and pinion system used on the Primus lamps, this is not an issue. Raising the pricker is not intended to shut off the lamp, even though it usually does. The correct way of turning off the lamp is to release pressure. If the lamp has been off for even a short time, it most likeley needs to be pre-heated again. Not doing this can result in flames outside the mantle.
Did you thoroughly clean the vapouriser? Remember also that the spirit cup should have an asbestos/fibreglass wick in it to give a nice long consistent preheating burn. I use the Vapalux/Bialaddin preheating wicks LINK, they fit the 1001 well. You can see some photos HERE and HERE These are bulletproof and really serviceable Lanterns, one of my all time favourites I have been using the Ultrabright Mantles from Juliands LINK on my Tilleys and 1001s, great light output and pretty tough mantles. I previously used Peerless DT140 Mantles but they are no longer available. If you go for a 300cp Double-Tie, I'm sure it will do the job, but not all mantles are created equal Alec.
Gents- thanks for reaching out. I am bit embarrassed.. I missed to tighten the lower end of the vapouriser. While at it I put some copper paste on the threads of the jet and vapouriser- just to be on the safe side. Now it has been running smoothly for a couple of hours with zero issues. Great piece. Thanks for tips on the mantles. I will check them out. Kindly Henrik
Excellent! Thank goodness it was a straightforward fix. Running well! I love these lanterns Alec. N.B. I would advocate fitting a preheating wick to the bowl
It kicked out fine without a wick and I remember that Nils said that a couple of years ago as well. With that said there must a have been a good reason for Primus to have them installed I reckon. Followed your link about the Tilley mantles. Not obvoius. Are they suitable for 300s as this 1001?
They work, I give them that, but I prefer mantles that aren't pre-tied. The Tilley mantles are usually pre-tied to fit the Tilley burner, which make them a bit fiddly to get to work on the Primus. Peerless DT-140 was much better, so it's sad to hear that they aren't in production anymore. Before Peerless, I used Aida mantles bought from Hytta.de. They work well, and are easy to attach. Detailseite: AIDA Glühstrümpfe- - hytta.de
Great! Thanks Christer. Well I start with the Aidas I and I will place an order right away. Just to avoid customs with things coming from UK. Will search more on the mantle topic. I had the 1001 running for HOURS today. Indoors as well. No odeur. Very solid performer I must say but the assembly was so and so although easy. I think the 1020/991 was a a leap forward for Primus at the time. Mine (1932) came with a blue enamel top but when digging into the history I figured these tops was earlier in production. Or maybe Primus just used up old parts.
