What would be the most original looking Mixing Dome out the 2 Domes pictured below, fitted to a PorkPie Table Lamp. One of the Domes is from an original burner, the other is a reproduction with the flat top. Visually speaking what would look the best out the two Mixing Domes fitted to a Porkpie Table Lamps, for both short stem & tall. Reason for asking, most the original burners that i have are stuffed, so i buy reproduction burners from Julian Shaw. Now i have the option of removing the mixing domes from the old burners and fitting them to the new style burners. Your thoughts on the best look. Kind Regards Darren
I think the dome top... whether an old dome top is compatible with the new burner body, I don’t know, can’t see any reason why not. Others may be able to give you more help. Stevie
Hi Stevie, yes they are interchangeable as they screw on/off the new ones & old. They also appear to be the same size as well as the injector. My question really was, what Mixing Dome out the 2 would best suit a Porkpie Table Lamp. Im sure we have members on this forum with burners from Julian. Plus would be interesting to know if anyone has swapped the mixing domes around, and how it performed, plus what visually looks better. Kind Regards Darren
1. A tall mixing dome with the patent stamp is most likely what an early Tilley X246 came with. 2. Don’t take a Tilley burner apart unless you need to. This has been communicated to you before. Cheers Tony
Yes it has been communicated to me about not pulling apart old burners, but the ones that are to far gone, i like to keep the domes and injectors. Plus thought it would be interesting to screw the old mixing domes onto the new burners to give it some what of an older look. Im interest if anyone has tried doing this and to know how it burns.
I just realised you meant to replace the “Juliands” mixing dome. 1. If you want to use the lamp, don’t do it. A burnt out dome will not last long, and the bought Juliands burner will be better. 2. If you want it for display, use the original. 3. If you are a trader and your selling it, don’t mix the parts or, unless you are very explicit about what you’ve done, you are selling a frankie. Tony Edit: crossed with your response. I like to keep things authentic or “repaired”. I would not sell anything without telling the buyer what I’d done.
Ok Tony, I appreciate the advice, thank you. How can one tell if a mixing dome is burnt out and no good ? Also have you personally used one of Juliands burners, how did you find them compared to an original tilley burner. Any pros/cons. Regards Darren
The Juliands burner is very good. They are heavy, so make sure they are primed properly. Check the threads. If they are pock-marked, they are heading to unsound. You can fudge with exhaust pipe sealer, but not for prolonged use. Cheers Tony
Thankyou for that advise Tony. guessing you have a few porkpie table lamps, would you possibly have one fitted with Juliands burner, interested to see how it might look. I have quite a few burners that have red exhaust sealer that looks kind of brown, quite a few lamps that i brought from jim had it. Still have not got around to unboxing them all. Regards Darren
The Juliands burner is one solidly made replacement burner. Probably better than the original, at least the newer Tilley burners. The Juliands burners are heavier than the new original Tilleys. Better brass maybe?
The Juliands burner is probably better than the later, shorter Tilley burner without the screwed retaining nuts. I’m not sure about whether they are better than the original longer Tilley burner. Darren Judging by a few examples I’ve seen, Jim’s practice was to re-set the burner dome with an ochre-coloured exhaust sealant if the dome had been taken off. I have a few of Jim’s old burners in “vgc” some with, some without, the exhaust sealant. I expect they will all perform admirably. My comment above about “fudging” with exhaust sealer was with respect to warn out burners, not burners in good condition. I don’t have any lamps permanently fitted with a Juliands burner. I use mine on my testing bed to compare to untested burners. My practice is to fit these old beauties with working original parts. All Left to right: late short Tilley burner, older Tilley burner with the patent number on the dome, Juliands burner. Late short Tilley Late short Tilley with retaining nuts. Older Tilley burner with patent No. Another older Tilley burner with patent No. Juliands burner (new, unused) Note that the weights vary a bit; it could be use for the old ones, or the mix of steel and brass for the new ones. The old Tilley burners and the Juliands burner are similar weight; the new Tilley burners are lighter by around 10 to 15%. Cheers Tony @george @AussiePete @Kiwiboy00
Well researched Tony. I have a Juliands burner in a Frankie, cobbled together July 2016, that has now had a lot of use. I use it out on the back deck whenever we have a BBQ, so I would estimate it has run for approximately 30 hours, most likely more. The reproduction burner performs very well, to the point that I have never given it any thought which indicates that its doing its job and well. In my opinion, I would suggest that the Juliands reproduction is a viable alternative. Cheers Peter
Thats a great informative post, thank you Tony, we are very lucky to have you on this forum. Sounds like everyone is very happy with Juliands burners. I have just placed an order with Juliands for more burners. So far all i have heard is positive feedback about these burners, apart from one guy in the UK. The only bad thing I’ve heard about Juliands burners, was from a guy in the UK that said his TL106 was fitted with a milk shade and the weight of the shade ended up distorting the burner arms/burner holes, tipping the shade on a slight lean due to the weight of the shade resting on the hot arms. Still thats one guy possibly out of hundreds, so not bad odds if that was the case. Thank you everyone who commented. Kind Regards Darren
@Tony Press Thanks for the photos/weights. With regards to the ochre coloured sealant, is that solely the colour? I’ve noticed most here most use petroleum based copper antisieze, but there are also clay/copper/petroleum mixes that dry out with heat and become quite powdery. Just a thought.
Since you are talking burners this one is older and you need to be aware because it will not dismantle like the later types because the nozzle is part of an one piece innner casting. Incidentally you can see in this image the damaged air tubes burnt away with long term use which is why they should never be removed for cleaning. ::Neil::
A very informative thread, thanks to all. There isn’t a day when I don’t learn something new and interesting here! Thanks to all, Stevie
