Is there a source of lantern NRV's? I can find the shorter thread type stove NRV's but not the lantern type. I've tried the fettlebox and eBay without success. BTW it's not the slot type.
Hi @ColinG If you can’t find a new one, maybe you could resurrect a used lantern NRV scavenged from a junker lantern. Cheers Pete
Colin, I have so many small bits in my ‘bits’ box if I could have a pic of exactly what you’re looking for I might be able to help. Have to open that parcel ready to go off to you - again!
@ColinG The reason I asked, above, “What kind of lantern”, is that some lanterns with that style of NRV have the NRV with a convex mating surface, joining a concave surface at the bottom of the pump tube. Also, some have a slightly different thread. Your lead washer looks shaped to me, but this could be because it is unable to mate properly with the receiving face. Tony
@Tony Press The honest answer is, I'm not sure! I noticed that when it's tightened, the lead washer is swaged onto a curve rather than being compressed between to flat surfaces... if that makes sense. @plantpot That looks perfect for what I need but the price is very steep, especially as the thread might get rounded when it's being tightened. I may possibly have a replacement (or two) coming from some extremely kind members so I'll wait and see if one of those works first, plus, I'll most likely use loctite blue thread lock to create a good seal.
Colin If your lantern takes a curved faced NRV, a flat faced NRV won’t work. I know, because it’s happened to me. Tony
It looks pretty much like a standard stove check valve which also fits a number of lanterns. So where does it come from? The lead washer of your valve needs to be replaced. A new washer will just be squeezed in exactly the shape that is needed to seal. Erik
@ColinG Agree with you regarding the price! Just as an FYI, I try where ever possible to not use lead washers, instead opting for the plastic type (you can make them yourself from milk container screw tops (NDPE or something like that its called.) I have also sealed NRVs and other non heat sensitive joints using PTFE gas tape. This works on my stove NRVs very well despite the stove body getting quite hot to touch. I use it on lantern NRVs with great success, better than gluing it tight with threadlock I think.
I wasn’t aware of a difference in terms of ‘shorter thread’ - length of threaded portion? I’m sure there’s not, and that the general (but not absolute) rule distinguishing the two is that lamp NRV’s have slotted heads and stove ones have the Primus pattern. I’ve recently used a ‘stove’ NRV in a lantern (Trainite/Hong Kong) with no adverse effects. John
@ColinG No problems using Loctite Blue threadlocker. Or perhaps Permatex Form A Gasket No. 2 sealant, which is non-hardening but still fuel-resistant. If lead washers are not available, you even use HDPE washers which are also fuel-resistant and easily punched out from the flat side of any empty plastic containers for engine oil or many other chemicals.
@Jean J ... that's the one, Jean... that'll definitely do the trick!! There are two types or lengths of NRV, both with the same thread, the lantern type which is 3cm long and the stove type which is 2.5cm long - I need the 3cm variety. Actually, if the female thread in the pump tube is sound and undamaged, a stove NRV will do exactly the same job but if the threads are rounded, you need as much surface contact as possible. And @MYN I have lead washers and I can make them as well, but the mating surface seems to be convex/concave rather than parallel. I'm not sure if this is the original state of if someone has rounded off the mating surface at some point. Anyway, with help from the lovely Jean and the use of some Loctite blue I'll sort it out!
This NRV from a Veritas has a flat mating face. This NRV from an Aladdin 1A has a curved mating face. I’ve been caught out a couple of times putting the wrong type of NRV into a lantern. The two are not interchangeable. I hope you get it fixed, Colin. Cheers Tony
You shouldn't be having problems with the convex-concave mating surfaces, if you're using a thread sealant or PTFE tape. You don't actually have to screw the NRV down as tight as you would with the lead washer and risk deforming the mating flange further. The sealant would do the trick.
@MYN that's good because I think the mating surface inside the pump tube is actually curved or convex. I don't know if it was like it from new or if it has been altered by someone but if any of you has a 'concave' NRV spare I'd definitely be interested!
