My first post on the forum. I've been working my way through all my old stoves and lanterns and getting them in to working condition one by one. This evening I'm looking at my Coleman 285-700 duel fuel lantern and can't for the life of me get it to light. Tank is full of fresh fuel (panel wipe), generator is new, pump is renewed so tank pressure is good. 30 strokes of the pump, open control and pop my lighter up to the mantle. I can hear hissing of air and its strong enough to blow the lighter flame away from the mantle but it won't light. Obviously no fuel..! But how can I have air and no fuel with a full tank? I know the nrv is stuck as I have to keep my thumb over the hole in the pump knob as I lock it off but its been like that for ages. Assistance appreciated. Thanks, Stuart
Could it be a problem with the fuel feed tube? OldColemanParts.com :: Lantern Parts :: 288 Feed Tube Assembly
Welcome aboard! When I have had that problem with lamps etc., it has been caused by a damaged or broken off fuel feed pipe.
Welcome from Queensland Australia. as Jeff said above, it’s sounding like your fuel feed pipe, in the tank is broken or the bottom of the feed pipe is plugged with gunk therefore only allowing the air at the top of the tank to feed without fuel. You will need to take the valve assembly off and screw out the feed tube to investigate. Good luck. Cheers Pete
Thanks chaps. I'm thinking it's more gummed up than broken as nothing is rattling around in the tank. I posted a link to the offending part earlier but it's "awaiting moderator approval" so will appear out of sync when it appears... Stuart
Could it be you are simply not waiting long enough for fuel to reach the burner? It can take what seems like a long time for fuel to fill the generator of a lantern that hasn't been lit for a while. I light 288s and 285s with the vent and globe off because those models tend to flare up a bit on start up because of their design. My start up process is: Open fuel cap and vent any existing pressure. Close cap, pump 30-35 times. Open fuel valve and listen carefully until I hear fuel, not just air in the burner. If you listen you will hear the difference when fuel finally starts to flow into the burner. I am guilty of sometimes opening the fuel valve all the way on these models to hasten the flow of fuel to the burner although this will add to the flare up. Open the valve fully with your ear near the burner, as soon as you hear fuel turn the valve back to the light position and strike your match. I use a long BBQ lighter for these lanterns.
Hi Reece. I'm familiar with the difference in sound when it starts to draw fuel but I'm not getting that at all. I've left the tap open until all pressure has exhausted with no joy. I'll be pulling it apart this weekend so hopefully find the issue. Stuart
I suspect this might have a similar fuel pickup issue to the 533 stove. In the exploded diagram they don't show a rubber washer that goes hard and leaves the lighting process sending only air. If you shake up the tank contents so it splashes fuel at that joint you get some fuel vapour for a second or two. You can hear the "hiss" change. In the diagram of the 285 they do at least show the equivalent washer! It's higher up in the tank so the shaking trick might not be so effective but it's worth a try.
All sorted and yes it was a problem with the fuel pick up tube. The small hole in the end that sits under the fuel level was blocked. The tiniest of pokes with a fine needle had it clear and I could blow air through. Slightly concerned this may alter the fuel/air ratio like I was opening up the size of a jet? The seal was ok and it went back together and lit easily. Ran for about 30 minutes nice and bright. Thanks for the guidance. Next task on this lantern is to sort a leaking nrv, if I don't keep my finger over the hole in the pump lever zero pressure stays in the tank. It's been like that for a good while though but would be nice to sort out. Stuart
Good progress. Does the air pressure leak out of the tank even when you have screwed the pump rod in? Usually the NRV leaking a bit during pumping doesn't matter since you can screw in the pump and seal it anyway. The standard fix is to fill the pump tube with fuel and let is soak for a few days. Then use the pump to "blow" it into the tank. That usually cleans off the crud that is causing it to stick. Extreme cases you have to remove it but usually thats not necesary.
It only leaks when pumping, once locked off it's fine. But air rushes out if I take my finger off the pump while pumping. I'll give the "fill the pump tube with fuel" fix a go and report back. Thanks.
You'll have better luck releasing the little ball in the checkvalve with a bit of carburetor cleaner squirted down there, then poke and prod the little ball with the pointy end of a bamboo skewer. Helps to remove the dried up fuel gunk, oily crud, and grime. I wouldn't worry about the fuel pick up hole if you enlarged it, it's the generator tip that really controls the lamp brightness. Those you definitely don't want to enlarge. On the Coleman fuel pickups, there's also a little opening, or hole, or slit near the top that allows air in to lean out the mixture for lighting. If the bottom fuel pickup is clogged (your situation) all you'll hear is air when the valve wheel is set to the "light" setting. You solved it and to be honest, you've now got experience--and bragging rights-- in the most perplexing of Coleman problems. Good on ya! Mike.
After 25+ years ownership of Coleman products it certainly had me thinking hence how I ended up on the forum...
@Stuart Gibbins You can also try using some Acetone. It really does remove varnish from the tiny ball bearing. If this doesn't work which sometimes it doesn't then you can order a new replacement. Base Camp in the UK has them plus any other parts you may need. Coleman Spares Price List Cheers, Norman
