So despite already having several lamps queuing in the garage for me to bring back to life, I have stepped well outside my comfort zone and I am now awaiting the arrival of what was advertised as a 1918 Coleman 327 quick-lite. My first Coleman, first double mantle, first Mica globe, first external hand pump (if I’ve got that right? Hope so as I’ve already sourced the hand pump). Not sourced the vaporiser as yet and wanted to check before ordering. An R55 I think? I have already found the details of the guy in the US that everyone seems to recommend for the globes. (Is he on here?). I had wondered about attempting a repair myself but definitely need to read up on that. Is the globe brass framed? From the reading I’ve done so far it looks like a fairly simple system and the hood looks in great condition and fairly bomb proof. Hoping it’s not too complicated a fettle, even for a novice! Anything in particular to look out for? Anyway, I’ve likely got at least a month before it arrives to read up. Think this one might be jumping to the front of the queue though!
The 1918 date is incorrect. It is 1928. The Coleman mica globe frames are usually steel. You can test yours by putting a magnet on it and you may be lucky and have a brass one. If you drop the mica globe into full strength vinegar for 20 minutes or so, it will clean up you mica nicely. It will do the same to the steel or brass frame too. I generally rinse the globe then use baby wipes to very gently wipe the inside mica to remove any left over soot. They come up a treat. I can assure you, a 20 minute soak in full strength vinegar then a polish will clean that hood up like it was new. You can do the same with the fount and it makes light work of the 90 odd years of grime accumulation.
Thanks Matty, all seeming very manageable so far. Is it possible to replace the broken mica panels or would it be a new globe? I assume the reproduction ones are fairly pricey?
Scott, I've never bought a replacement but from what I've seen on the forums I think one will be about US$45 then of course postage. I believe they are worth every cent. Sadly, they are too pricey for my means. It would cost in the region of AU$100 with postage. It is possible to repair the mica globes. It takes a bit of patience from what I understand. I've never been able to source mica to attempt to refurbish mica globes I own.
I’ll see what it looks like when it lands and go from there. It’s good to know that I can confidently attempt the repair but replacement globes are available in case I balls it up! The US postage is a killer, cost nearly as much to get the lamp to the UK as it did to buy it!
Nice! You'll love the 327. Pretty much bulletproof and such a classy looking lantern. A Q99 generator would be what it came equipped with, but there's no tip pricker. The R55 has that and was advertized by Coleman as a replacement. Q99s look cool but when they clog you need a separate tip pricker to clear them. I think you'll find the R55 a nice option. Either generator requires preheating before you light the mantles. The Q99 was advertized as only needing two matches. Fred Kuntz is the masterful maker of repro mica chimneys. They are very reasonably priced but you're right--shipping will be a killer. He also sells the mica panels which would be cheaper to ship. You could also try stove repair/restoration businesses as the old wood and coal stoves used mica panels in the doors. It might be a bit thick but you can split of panels easily enough and repair your frame which is in amazing rust-free condition. Yes, you have the correct pump and when you start your Quicklite, only give it 4 or 5 pumps. Preheat the generator, open the valve a tiny bit, light the mantles and give them 10 seconds to heat up the generator. Then add 20-25 pumps, open the valve a bit more and it'll become beautifully bright. The nickel plating on the vent is super thin so go easy as you polish it. It'll go dark again with burning. One of Coleman's best designs. Have fun! Mike.
I do like the look of the Q99 generator and 10-15 second pre-heat with a gas lighter would be easy. If I go for the R55 would a Tilley type clip on pre-heater be the way to go?
It will be a bit awkward, stick with the gas lighter. An alternative source for mica panels is : - Detailseite: Mica-/Glimmerscheiben - Ofenglas Ofenscheibe Marienglas - hytta.de (They are fluent in English)
The idea of the Q99 was so the mantle lit with a just a match under the loop in the generator for 5 or so seconds, which is 5 seconds faster than your gas lighter estimate. They don't need a torch to pre-heat and using one is a bit of overkill. Of course you can use one if you like, your preference is king. I suppose if you were outdoors on a bitterly cold morning the Q99 may take two matches to warm up. I really don't know.
First class advice given by the PROS here at the CPL ,now its time for a rank amateur to chime in. I would be sure to buy the SMALL STEM VALVE PACKING from OCP when you buy the genny. With QL's they always have a small leak at the valve when restored and the packing fixes it for one whole dollar. Also a pump leather for the pump . The mica chimneys from Fred currently cost $40 plus postage. I'd buy 2 because you'll like the 327 and then want another or 227 or 427 and you'll already have your chimney on hand. If Fred ships first class international to you cost could be surprisingly low but Priority Mail and its very costly . You'd have to call Fred and find out the exact shipping cost . If you want his number you can PM me.
Have gone for the Q99 to keep it as original as possible but have ordered the cleaning tool to go with it. Have also found the gland packing and the washer for the filler cap. Looking at the diagrams of it there don’t appear to be any other seals to change. The benefit of not having a built in pump. Thanks for the advice all, looking forward to getting started on it!
You were spot on Matty, short soak in vinegar and it shined up like new. One small scratch through the plating but the rest looks really good!
It does show promise! I’m having a bit of trouble though getting the fuel valve to release from the font. I’ve tried the brute force option but don’t want to give it too much as the top of the font is already a little concave having being dropped a time or two over the last 90 years or so I expect. WD40 hasn’t shifted it and it’s had a tap with the hammer to free it up but it still won’t budge. I’m wondering if there’s possibly some thread seal been used? Any ideas?
Why would you want to do that? They're usually difficult to remove and only done when absolutely necessary. All of my similar lanterns have needed no more than a quick look-over and then they've lit straightaway i.e. right out of the box...
Thanks David, that’s a relief. I’ve only experienced the full strip down and seal replacement required for Tilley and Bialaddin lamps so far. The Coleman is a first for me. If they are as simple as they seem to be then I’m a big fan! Should finish the clean and rebuild this weekend then it’s a wait for the new chimney from Fred. Last problem to solve is a new leather for the hand pump. I don’t know if they take the standard Coleman cup. This one is 13/16”. I have sent Base Camp an email to enquire.
@Scott D Old Coleman Parts could be good source of any parts you need, including the pump leather. I have been very happy with parts from them. Here is the link to Mike’s site .... https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/home.php?cat=22 Have fun on your fettle and I’m looking forward to seeing the money shot. Cheers Pete
Thanks Pete, yes I used them for the small gland packing, lead washer, generator and a collar. I also got a rather nice canvas badge thrown in. Arrived really quickly too.
Looks super Scott. I am hoping to get a Coleman lamp in the new year and get working on all my lamps. Great work. Happy Christmas from Ireland. Fiona
The fuel valve has a small pin that keeps you from screwing the packing nut completely out. It's a safety feature. You have to unscrew the packing nut completely to get the valve out. If you force it you will break the little pin. (Hope I made myself clear on this..)
Just unscrewing the valve alone will not remove it, you have to unscrew the valve nut that holds the gland packing.
I finished fettling my 327 before Christmas and have been trying to wait for the new mica chimney to arrive from Fred before lighting it but it’s been two months since placing the order for the chimney and I ran out of self control and decided that a first light up was probably best done without the new chimney on anyway. I stripped the damaged mica panels out of the chimney and have ordered new panels to attempt to refurbish the old chimney. This lantern has been really straightforward to work on, a vinegar bath for most of the parts including the existing chimney with a bit of a polish was all it took. Fine wire wool on the metal and blue roll on the mica. Rebuilt with new lead gasket and small gland packing and a new generator. I did think about putting a Q99 in as that would have been original and they do look cool, but in the end went for the R55 on the basis that any lantern on my shelf has to earn it’s keep. A quote from a post on this forum I think advised “Q99 for show, R55 for go”. The cleaning wire addition does make sense! I had to replace the leather cup (3/4”) in the hand pump as that had perished but that was straightforward. Pump was sourced through Etsy of all places. I was a bit nervous about the light up as I still haven’t had a successful gasoline restoration yet. (Still fiddling with the NRV on the Focus!) But it is certainly the easiest lantern I have lit (once of figured out the cleaning wire loop points up to move the needle down!) I quite like that it is back in action with it’s original chimney albeit missing a few mica panels. But will of course add a photo when the new one eventually makes it across the Atlantic.