Moin, I've now started a self-experiment! The manometer of a 2827 that I'm just finishing up was very rusty, but still technically fit. I derusted it electrolytically and instead of painting it, I burnished it afterwards. I wanted to prevent the fine embossing in the lid from getting under a layer of paint, as it almost happened to me during the partial restoration of my first 2827. A well-known gun oil manufacturer has a quick browning that I tried out. I have to say the result is better than expected! After painting it several times, wiping it off and then neutralizing it, the surface is lightly oiled and ready. I think the experiment was a success! I completed the manometer with the original scale and a newly cut mica disk. 20 seconds....
Very cool. Am wondering now if that might be a solution for the steel spiral handle on my PL53. I have been debating how to protect it. Not fancying a spray paint job.
Moin, On my new old Hasag 351 L, I tried out how browning is suitable for some cortoded components. The heavily corroded parts are the pump button and the four vertical struts of the support frame were suitable for the test. Just to try it out, I carefully sanded one of the struts bright and treated it with the burnishing material. There are less than 5 minutes between the first and the following second image. Job. After neutralizing and finally rubbing off the oil, I have a surface that is hopefully durable enough. Regular care as part of maintenance / cleaning is of course necessary. But temperature resistance and less work compared to painting or new electroplating is considerable.
Hallo Markus, the gun or metal world is an odd one. 'Brünierung' in German makes for a visual black result when some chemical formula is surface applied on most steels. In the English world 'Blueing' is used to describe that process even if most finishes lack that blueish teint. But either way, I wonder if this result stays when getting hot? Regards, Mike
Both bluing and browning are finishes used in the firearms world. The colors achieved are different, as the terms imply. Both are a form of rust. While these finishes give some protection from rust, especially compared to bare metal, it is nowhere near the level of protection given by paint or a coat of clear lacquer. Except for the vent/hood high heat paint is not needed for any lantern part. Ordinary rattle can spray paint will work nicely. I normally follow the color coat with a fuel resistant clear coat, in my case made by Duplicolor. Browned or blued parts will need to be oiled routinely or clear coated to prevent rust. That being said, the finish looks great on your lantern. Coleman used blued latches on some of their suitcase stoves in the 1950's and I think it is a much nicer look than the nickled ones used later.
Not for the first time I am learning something here. Is the brown finish used on older rifles? Anyway, my apologies to Markus if I have come across as a lecturer. Mike.
Moin, i have now had the lamps with the machined parts in use several times and so far I have not been able to detect any change on the surface. I have to say, however, that I take the time to clean the lamp after use and to take care of the components accordingly. So this is apparently very useful if you accept the maintenance . Also from my side a nice greeting to Markus, whoever he is......
