Good day! I recently re-built an old AGM 3927-A two mantle lantern. A couple of years ago, I bought a bunch of Peerless mantles to 'have in stock', but have not used any of them until now. I installed 2 of the 2C-HG mantles onto the lantern. They burned in fine, and formed nicely when I lit the lantern, but I am unable to get them to glow 'white'. They burn extremely yellow/orange. With the lantern pumped up, the flame 'ball' is outside of the mantle, and flames flow up to the top of the lantern. When I reduce the pressure, the flame is contained within the mantle, but is still yellow, and the mantle does not glow 'white' at all. I tried 'adjusting the jet' using the pricker needle, but that does not help, only reduces the flow of gas to the mantle. Do you have any idea what might be wrong? Have there ever been any reports of these Peerless mantles not going incandescent? Is it a mixture problem? I have never had this problem with any of my lanterns...they always burn with a nice white mantle, but this is my first experience with the Peerless mantles. I appreciate any help/insight you might be able to provide! Sincerely, Ben Ben Fast North Vancouver, BC, Canada
G'day Ben, Flames on the outside of the mantle is usually a sign of an incorrect air / fuel ratio. Oversized jet, obstruction in the air tube, loose nipple or some other leak in the system. Have you tried a dunk test in hot water? Leaks usually show up. I have used Peerless mantles without a problem.
How does it burn with a different brand of mantle? That will tell us if it’s a mantle problem or lantern problem.
As others have said, it sounds like overfueling i.e. worn/oversized jet. If I remember correctly, the 3927 uses the same generator as a Coleman 220; if this is the case and you have a working 220, try swapping generators to see if this solves the problem.
Hi, Henry! I discovered that the generator that came in this lantern is likely a 'modified' Coleman T44. I replaced it with a new T44, but used the 'modified' cleaner rod from the original, which fits the jet in the T44. (The AGM cleaner rod has a different attachment point, a groove cut into the end instead of the bent hook that Coleman uses.) It does not work any better than the 'original'. Is there a different Coleman 220 generator you are talking about? I measured cleaning needle as 0.007", and the jet has a "V" stamped onto it. I suspect I need a smaller jet, as it is clearly running rich with the T44. I tried one of the 2C-HG mantles on a Coleman 200, and it formed differently than in the AGM 3927-A. In the AGM, the mantles formed more narrow and long, in the Coleman, much rounder. In the Coleman 200, the light output is acceptable, and pretty bright white. It is definitely not as white as a Coleman mantle, but not bad. I assume, therefore, that the Peerless mantle is not the problem but rather it is an issue with an incorrect jet size in the generator. I would appreciate any suggestions on what generator might be appropriate to modify and use in this lantern. Thanks! Ben
I have done a bit more experimentation, and here are some photos to show the performance of the Peerless mantles compared to Coleman equivalents. The lantern on the left is a Coleman 236 Major (1948) with a Coleman 1111 mantle (very bright white). Second from the left is a Coleman 236 Major (1958) with a Peerless 111 mantle (not as bright as the Coleman mantles, and more of a red tone). Third from the left is a Coleman 236 Major (1968) with a Coleman 1111 mantle (very bright white). On the right is the Coleman 200 with the Peerless 2C-HG mantle (pretty bright, but yellower and redder than the Coleman mantles). On the left is the AGM 3927-A with two 2C-HG mantles (very yellow, not much light output). The burner cap is much smaller in diameter than the one in the Coleman 200, so I think that is why the mantles formed differently (long and thin compared to the one in the 200, which is wider and shorter). I'm assuming I need a different generator (currently a modified Coleman T44) or maybe it is a matter of using different mantles...ideas anyone? Ben
Heres my lrl2 Kamplite with a 2chg very bright! But I folded the top down on a 111 to make it smaller to put in my 242b as I'm running out of 2chg and got that slightly pinkish dull light that you mention. I've had the flames coming out of the mantle on another lantern with a damaged/oversized tip before
I doubt it. The AGM 3927 and Coleman 220 are both twin mantle 300 cp lanterns, various pieces and parts may be a slightly different shape or have different screw threads but the orifice in the gas tip will be the same size. No. The T44 is for a 300 cp lantern. The 3927 is a 300 cp lantern. Are you 100% certain sure the air tube is free from obstruction e.g. spiders nest? I once had a similar problem with a rebuilt lantern, much to my embarrassment, the air tube wasn't as clean as I thought it was. I can't comment on the 2C-HG mantles as I've never used them.
Hi, Henry I will take your advice and try that next (thoroughly cleaning the air passages). I did not want to waste two brand new mantles unless absolutely necessary... I did plug up each of the air tubes and the generator hole and blow through them, and there did not seem to be any obstruction (air flowed easily). Once I take off the mantles, I will thoroughly clean the meshes on the burner caps as well, in case they are the culprits. Others have made this lamp burn well, so it is clearly possible! Ben
I have been using the 2c-hg Yttrium coated mantles and they are pretty "white" - not as white as the cheap Chinese Thorium coated ones but a lot more robust. I found them about the same as modern manufacture Coleman #21s. I think I read that Coleman switched to Yttrium in the 90s from Thorium. regardless of the above, what others have said about jets and/or blockages I also believe is where the issue lies good luck
Blowing through an airtube only proves it is somewhat unplugged. Use of a compressor is still no guarantee of unplugged tubes as a partial blockage due to a spider web is enough to cause the symptoms you report. A physical cleaning is needed and while some have luck with a zip tie, I prefer a trumpet cleaning snake. Less than $10 on ebay and it will clear all debris and make the tight turns needed in most lantern manifolds. An exception would be dauber mud which needs to soak in water or peroxide to soften first.
I bought a trombone size one for the water drains on an Mazda MX-5, I should have kept it it when we sold the car... but it is a great idea - I didn't even think about a trumpet size one. Edit**** £3.95 on Ebay UK - just ordered one.
