Hi, I'm new to this forum. I've been given a Chinese clone of Petromax 500cp lantern running on kerosene. I have read the manual, but I have a question I can't find answers to. Also my lantern has few issues perhaps someone can help me resolve. The lantern runs, but initially it had a kerosene leak from the main valve. Tightening the nut made little difference. Since I added some teflon tape it doesn't leak anymore. However it has another problem. When I use the preheat cup with main valve closed it starts making hissing noises from time to time and it seems kerosene somehow gets to the burner in small amount. This happens even if the main tank has no pressure, but it happens with a lot more intensity when main tank is pressurised. I thought the valve must be leaking kerosene so I've pumped the tank to a little bit over 2bar and I left it off for 24h to see if liquid kerosene runs out the generator, or if the pressure drops. Next day I noticed no liquid kerosene leaking. The pressure only dropped a needle width. After 24h additional hours it again dropped only a needle width. So there is no pressure leak, but kerosene somehow gets to the burner with valve closed while preheating. I have a so called large repair kit for this Model so I can replace some parts, but I'm not sure which part to replace. Second issue is the operation of rapid preheat burner. When I use it in accordance with the instructions there is no way to keep it ignited with a match. It lights then if the match is withdrawn goes out. The only way to keep it running is to point a propane pencil torch at it and keep the pencil torch igniting the fuel spray until the end of the burners pipe starts glowing red hot. Only then it will sustain ignition on its own. The problem with using this method frequently is that one has to direct the gas torch through the gap where a rubber ended stopper is located that closes the quick ignition burner. It is very easy to burn that stopper with the pencil torch. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix it? The third thing is not an issue, but a question. I have a number of large double ended mantles. The manual mentions to use double ended mantles an accessory that holds the other end is needed. Unfortunately the picture of thag accessory is tiny, monochromatic and distorted. Could anyone that has that accessory (maybe for another lamp type) post a picture of it, please? I have a hobby forge and a machine shop so I could make one if I knew hps it is supposed to look.
Rapid> use less pressure will help. "Leaking" > there is fuel in the vaporiser this will expand and exit at the jet and ignite. Without pressure in the tank the internal pressure in the vaporiser will also escape into the tank which is easier. Two tie mantles, I know the thing but not the english word for it. Sorry. The German word is "Stützbügel". This is it, upside down:
Others might disagree, but Butterfly mantles (available on eBay, AliExpress, Wish and probably other outlets) have always worked very well for me. You can get two different types, sock and round and I'm still not sure which is best so probably both are equally as good. For example I found... These and also these Both look ok to me but maybe search around to see if you can get them cheaper or more quickly. I am not endorsing these sellers, just showing you the type of thing to look for. Hope this helps.
Your lantern is the rapid-starter type. So if there was a little leak of kerosene through the jet/gas tip orifice above the generator, then the foot valve at the bottom of the lower vaporizer which, is located inside the fount is, sometimes not sealing properly. The picture below is not from an Anchor but it's similar. The foot valve is indicated:- Either the rubber pip inside the footvalve is not seating properly or already harderned too much. You can dis-assemble it to check. Make sure the spring is still working strongly on the holder with the rubber is still intact and could slide without obstructions inside the footvalve. Image below is typical for Petromax foot valve with the parts 196(193, 194 & 195): Also, make sure the lower part of the pricker needle rod is not loose or extending too much against the footvalve pip at the bottom when the valve is in the closed position(indicated 'A' in image below): The eccenter piece ('B) is sometimes installed upside down and could cause problems with the proper relative positions when its fully assembled with the valve/knob assembly in place. It can also cause the footvalve being unable to fully shut when the needle or valve knob is in the 'up' or closed position. For the rapid starter, use a lower operating pressure when igniting it and gradually increase the pressure as the fount pressure drops. If the pressure's too high, it'll blow its flame out. Normally, the Anchor only requires single-tie mantles. Double ties are only optional if you have a lower holder.
As Myn said, but please note: if you remove the valve (part 153) from the fount you will have to replace the lead seal (part 90). My very first pressure lamp was an Anchor. I bought it new at a little rural general store in the Magaliesberg area in Gauteng, South Africa. I still have it 25 years later and after much use it is still in good condition. It is one of the better made clones. Keep it clean and protect it against corrosion and it will serve you well for many years to come.
or use Teflon tape. PETROMAX Stützbügel Stutz Petroleumlampe Laterne Lampe Sturmlaterne HK 500 Restoration of a PETROMAX 829 Lantern
@Henry Plews , did you see the shipping costs? They are higher then the actual mantle support bracket.
Thank you for your replies and for the picture of the holder WimVe. I didn't realise it has a piece of ceramic. This makes it a bit more difficult to make, but as now I know how it is called in German I may have more luck finding it available to buy :-) I've tried opening the pressure vent while heating with alcohol, but the issue remains. I'll check parts mentioned by others. I have spare lead seals so I should be fine. If there are rubber elements there it is very likely they deteriorated. The lantern sat for at least 10 years worth of winters in an unheated shed. Rubber doesn't like freezing temperatures.
@WimVe No, I hadn't seen the shipping costs. Perhaps this one will be better. Petromax Stützbügel HK350/HK500 @Rusty the lower part does not have to be ceramic. I have ex Swiss army Hasag lanterns with stützbügel and the lower part is steel. Those lanterns are in storage and I don't have a picture but here is an image of a different style of stützbügel. See how there is a groove to hold the bottom of the mantle.
Wow, I've never seen a stützbügel before or if I have, I didn't realise what it was. So am I right in thinking it holds the bottom of the mantle in place so it can't shrink and form that annoying wrinkly mess you sometimes get? Also, is there a translation of stützbügel?
Interesting since mantles shrink when burned off. So fixated at the bottom will require a very suitable mantle. That is one that doesn't shrink or with a well defined distance/volume. @ColinG : The support is not to prevent shrinkage but to prevent breakage when moving the lantern around.
I agree, most mantles on my lanterns break by my fingers.... I rarely had a mantle break on route to and from lamp meetings. Butt there is always a butt, the device is there, made, patented even so at some point in history there was a demand. But I guess, like the stainless steel burner head, more a gizmo.
@ColinG Same word Stüzbügel describes in german language the supporting metal wire used in bra. :-) I don't use "female" lanterns. No Stützbügel in my lanterns. :-))
