This arrived today. I think that means 1. yea this is addictive and 2. I'm going to need to learn quite a bit about...fettling? And figuring out how to get spare parts in Japan... No markings on the bottom as far as I can tell.
The problem with rare or not anymore available brands is that original parts are not easy to get. For this model all px 35o parts will fit. The AIDA range however is not that rare, although the 1250 ex BB is getting very expensive. As for fettling for all petromax style clones, this is the document:
A great lamp to bring back to life. Looking forward to seeing pictures of it burning brightly once again.
Not burning yet but today I did a total disassembly (as far as I could) and cleaning in a boiling citric acid solution, as described by Shinzo Kono (thanks @gkpllantern) on his site Restoring Lantern. Worked well. One step done... all parts before cleaning: and after cleaning: Comparison before/after cleaning:
...and thanks @WimVe for the complete restoration instructions and other tips! Before I can light this up I still need to get some of the regular replacement parts.
I thought the same thing, and made an effort to disassemble the manometer for that reason (the meter dial is printed on aluminium). But I forgot about the label plate until after I put it in for a few minutes. Then pulled it up and saw the paint came off it but the label itself held ok. I did notice the area around the label had a pink red copper color, perhaps the aluminium worked as catalyst to extract the remaining chrome close by and the zinc from the brass. As far as I know that effect is superficial and the brass color can be restored by brushing with a steel brush/steel wool. Some sources (incl Shinzo) say use a brass brush, not steel. Does anyone know which is better? Regards, Elvin
The aluminium scale plate on the manometer isn't laser-etched but is something like an inked-printing. The printingvisn't resistant to strong cleaning solvents or chemicals. The aluminium can be corroded if you use lye(strong alkali/ sodium hydroxide). It is also not resistant to stronger acids like phosphoric, hydrochloric, etc. Do not clean with those. Same goes for the transparent face-plate window of the manometer. It isn't made of glass but plastic. This plastic isn't resistant to solvents. It can be frosted, yellowed, deformed or destroyed by strong organic cleaning solvents. Do not immerse the lantern parts in the citric acid for too long. Some nickel will thin-off and the brass can de-zinc and leave behind a pinkish copper surface. The pink copper surface is easily restored back to brass-colour by polishing with Autosol, Mothers, etc. If you are using a metal brush to clean hard-to-reach areas, a brass one is softer and safer than a steel one. Alternatively, you can also use very fine(#000 or better, #0000) steel wool to gently scrub some areas. Anything coarser will leave behind a lot of scratch marks. The lantern is made of softer brass and not steel. The plating is nickel, not hard-wearing chromium. For the acid solution, if you keep re-using it, there would be substantial copper, zinc, some nickel dissolved or reacted in it. Subsequent parts soaking will cause some copper to re-deposit on the metal surfaces regardless of whether they are already clean or not.
