Lilor model 1931 questions

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by Doug L, Feb 20, 2023.

  1. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    Hello gentlemen. Recently bought this Lilor and I am hoping to find some advice on how to get this thing running. Aside from the missing control valve wheel,it seems to be all there. Both the fuel valve rod, and the cleaning needle rod are both frozen they don’t move. So I want to know the best way to access the inside of those brass pipes so I can inject citric acid. Can the fuel valve packing be accessed from the fuel supply end?
    or should I pull out the brass disc and asbestos? Is there a problem pushing that all back in if I do pull it out? I have been applying heat with a paint stripper gun, but that does not seem to be getting those rods free. Thank you gentlemen I’d like to get this lamp working

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  2. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Have you tried undoing the gland nuts ? Backing them off as far as they'll go will allow you to pull back the brass sleeve and apply some penetrant / lubricant. It maybe best to hold the rods with pliers.

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  3. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    Thank you Mr Plews. Yes I have pulled the brass sleeves back but the “asbestos string” it blocking injection of much penetrating oil.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2023
  4. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    @Doug L
    The heat alternating with a soaking with penetrating oil is THE solution
    I use a small brass hammer to hit gently all around the tube in order to take off the axis
    It is stuck in an old asbestos string that has hardened
    You have to be very very patient
    It can take me 3/4 weeks to extract this kind of axis
    Heat/penetrating oil /hammer and again and Again
    Reserve citric acid for surface cleaning
    hope this help
     
  5. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    I see you haven't dismantle the burner
    the upper knob is only a conic pricker to shut/open the gasoline
    quite easy to get out
    Asbestos string is rolled up on the rod, try to catch an end and pull gently while heating

    The one below is used to maneuver the needle and the needle holder (be carefull)
    You have to unscrew the part that hides the jet and then, the jet
    You will have access to the needle holder and be able to put more penetrating oil in the tube
    In fact, you have to dismantle everything (if only for a good cleaning)

    and feel free to ask if my english is not good :-k
     
  6. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    So I’m trying to dismantle the burner and found it easier to take the control section off the lamp. That piece that houses the pricker is not coming off so I am heating it repeatedly and spraying cold water plus penetrating oil in between.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2023
  7. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    Does the needle device just lift out?
    Isn’t that locked into the adjustment shaft tip?

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2023
  8. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    hello again, gentlemen.

    I made some progress with the cleaning needle control. I have it working now. The control knob turns fully and the needle advances and Rich tracks.

    I’m working on the fuel control rod now it’s still frozen. The asbestos string is hard as a rock. I am able to pull dig some out using a safety pin, but only small pieces of that thread are coming out. Hopefully in the end, if I get this fuel control rod moving that asbestos string can be replaced.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 25, 2023
  9. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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  10. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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  11. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Michel is correct. It is not the asbestos packing that holds the axle in place, it is the steel rod which is corroded fixed in place. Heat, rapid cooling and again and again may break the corrosion.
    But DON'T break the rod.
     
  12. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    So should I be heating the exposed rod or the brass tube housing the rod?
     
  13. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    heat the brass tube housing, then put it on a hard surface
    knock all around with a small hammer or better with a brass object so as not to make marks
    this should break up the gangue of old residue (rust, old dried fuel)
     
  14. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    If you heat the brass tube it will expand, shrink, expand and hopefully release the rod. Or at least break the bond with the rod.
     
  15. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    the magic small brass hammer :D/

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  16. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    @Michel : you should not heat up the hammer ! it will char the handle.
     
  17. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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  18. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    UPDATE:
    After a few dozen heat/tap/oil cycles the steel fuel control rod is moving now. I think I was able to make 3 full turns counter clockwise but then it became hard to turn. I'm thinking I will just continue above method for a few more days and see if that helps to free it up. Any thoughts?
     
  19. Doug L

    Doug L United States Subscriber

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    It’s off
    How do I get the asbestos packing pack in? It’s a super tight fit.
    Or should I just use new graphite string packing?
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    Last edited: Mar 9, 2023
  20. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    it is better to change it
     

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