Having been engaged in a couple of conversations about the original Australian Aladdin 1A flame spreaders, I ratted through my spares and found a used loose one (ie the ceramic was loose inside the steel ring) that I could pull apart. 1. This is part 28A: [Source: My collection; also Reference Library] 2. The part complete: 3. The flame spreader I pulled apart had the ceramic loose in the steel ring. I discussed this with Bernie Holmes of TW Sands who told me two interesting things: The first is that originally there was a thin washer, probably asbestos) between the ceramic nozzle and the brass threaded top fitting. The steel band was crimped to clamp the ceramic, washer, and brass fitting tightly together, Second, he said that if the washer is missing and the ceramic loose, his usual repair was to just crimp the steel band tighter to clamp the brass directly to the ceramic. 4. In this case I’m dealing with now, the steel band was very rusty, so I decided to cut it off to see what was inside. The brass fitting and the ceramic nozzle (left; complete flame spreader, right) The rusted, cut steel ring. 5. I’m now pondering the best way to make these two parts into a fully functioning flame spreader. Stay tuned. The alternative to this original Part A28 is a brass fitting that takes a “Solar” ceramic nozzle, but these are currently in short supply (hence my interest in a repair for the old flame spreaders). Cheers Tony
Tony, l came to the same conclusion Aladdin Flame Spreader problem I have fixed several since without dismantling, using my finger to squeeze muffler putty into the gap from the inside. I then allow the putty to air dry before heat curing with a blow torch.
Yes, @ROBBO55 That would be my routing solution, too. In this particular case I actually needed to replace the steel crimping ring, so I got onto the path of looking at its original construction. Bernie Holmes reckons just having a tight crimp without the washer or putty works fine, too. I'll sit this disassembled Aladdin 1A flame spreader in front of me for a few days and ponder approaching how to approximate original construction (without asbestos, and no prefabricated steel crimping ring. What do you reckon about tooling the brass adapter for the Solar ceramic nozzle? I could ask my CNC-person what the cost would be for a batch. Cheers Tony
Interesting. I do not own an Aladdin 1-A or any flame spreaders with a similar construction to the A26 piece. Not sure if I'm imagining correctly but, it seems to me the ceramic part and the threaded brass top fitting would be held in place by the steel coupling ring cupping over their respective lips or rims. Metals wrapping over ceramic materials shouldn't give rise to thermal expansion-induced fractures on the latter. Not the other way round. (Metals expand more than ceramics when heated). Without the right tooling and jigs, I think it'd be difficult to form a similar coupling ring on the two separate pieces(ceramic and threaded brass fitting). The coupling ring not only hold the pieces together but also keeping them 'centred'.(the ceramic piece does not have section that 'intrude' over the threaded brass fitting). The asbestos washer is probably to provide a better gas seal and maybe some cushioning between the two pieces. Without any metal coupling ring, I would wrap or coil a piece of heat resistant wire(such as nichrome or stainless steel) as neatly as possible over the rims/lips to hold the two pieces together. It'd be a little crude but I think it should still work temporarily.
Tony, I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work . The overall length of the new would have to be the same as the old. I believe you are correct. The one I dismantled and recrimped had a rough and uneven surface. Without the washer it was difficult to secure the two parts without the risk of breaking the ceramic.
@Sedgman I assume there is no reason other than costs and tooling. I note that there is much discussion about all-stainless-steel Pertromax flame spreaders underperforming. I also note that I have a dozed or more of the "Solar" ceramic nozzles in the shed! Cheers Tony
@Tony Press Re the latter, were they in a plain rectangular cardboard box and from several to ten years ago going cheap. I might know a bloke who did the same and is down to 11.
I was thinking that it may be possible to stuff a loose ring with carbon felt. But I think the muffler putty idea isn't a bad one also.
I have this 1A lamp (like the one in @ROBBO55's avatar) which I had not yet lit due to it having a broken ceramic nozzle. Thanks Tony for finding one and sending it to me. Yesterday, I screwed it on and fitted a mantle. Then attempted to light it, first heating the generator for some time with a metho flame. (Filled the cup with metho and lit it). All I managed to achieve was huge orange flame and blackened lamp! I could not get the mantle to light up. Turning the red wheel alternately makes the flame bigger or extinguishes it completely. What does the brains trust think could be wrong, or what am I doing wrong? PS. The tank seems to hold pressure OK.
OK so pre-heating should be perhaps up to 2 minutes and you have done that so good. Lots of flame early on is often not pre-heated enough. Let's repeat it again, good pre-heating is necessary otherwise you get big flames. Have you tried pressurising the fount (tank); ah yes you said yes so I presume if you just pressurise it with say 10 pumps and have the fuel at 2/3 rds full then release the fuel cap you should have heard the hissing sound of air being released. Is their a leakage or squirt from the orifice (jet); if so good if its a steady stream. If not have you tried dunking the unit in a bucket of water immediately after pressurising it. Look for air bubbles from the filler cap or elsewhere. Is there any sign of fuel in the pump tube? There should be none. Don't put the glass on whilst doing some of these tests. Do that fresh from a cold start when you are certain everything is running. If none of this works check you have fuel coming out of the orifice. Have you verified the orifice is clear. It will be if fuel is coming through it but sometimes fuel for flameouts can come from elsewhere. Often the Aladdin pricker is broken. Are you certain their is a pricker and it is working; unscrew the nipple and physically look to see it is working when the unit is cold. Failing all that do your firing up in a safe location and with a long handled pair of grips in case you can't turn the thing off. Lastly, let us know if it' still won't work.
@Bruce T have you checked the nipple is tight and sealing. A leak around the nipple threads can produce the flames.
OK, I'll check for overall pressure and no leaks using a bucket of water. That may be the issue. Thanks for the tips, I'll report back on how I go...
