@ROBBO55 I think so Rob. The original bakelite (?) with viton composite is holding up well but on standby I have a seal/shutter incorporating a backing plate I cut out of brass sheet.
Update I’ve incorporated the brass/viton composite seal in a second example of the three Tillites @Tony Press sent me. To recap, with the secure installation of a pivot pin (silbrazed) and provision of a seal/shutter incorporating viton the Tillite installed in my Tilley X359 is working perfectly. In a second example the diecast jet block had corroded and this was the one I sectioned to get an idea of its internal construction. The third example Tony sent me didn’t pass fuel or air, which pricking of the jet orifice didn’t resolve and nor did compressed air clear it. I suspect another disintegration of internal passages in the diecast jet block. I resolved to drill out the jet block to take a jet/atomiser of my own construction, creating an internal fuel jet of (red arrow) of 0.32mm and an external jet (green arrow) of 0.23mm I arrived at those dimensions by trial and error. A larger external jet orifice created too fierce an output and rapidly depleted the compressed air above the fuel. Too small an internal fuel orifice gave too lean an output (too much air) that wouldn’t burn. My idea was to have concentric brass tubes, with fuel in the inner tube and compressed air from the top of the tank in the space between inner and outer tubes. Assembled. Here’s the external jet, created by silbrazing a short length of hypodermic needle into the stopped end of a brass tube. Here’s the internal jet. The brass surround with slits in the upper rim is to restrict and direct the passage of air across the fuel jet outlet, atomising the fuel. The air passage is restricted to maximise the velocity of the air (better atomisation of the fuel) and to prevent too rapid depletion of pressure in the tank. Here’s the fuel/air pickup installed in the pre-heater body. An air intake hole in the outer tube at a point well above the fuel level. The inner fuel tube is visible. Concentric tubes are a feature too of a Coleman fue/air pickup of course, where atomised fuel is fed to the burner during start-up. Without a second X359 to install the refurbised Tillite in I decided to add it to my ‘project’ Tilley CS56 paraffin stove. I had to install a connector bush to screw the Tillite into of course, tapped with a half-inch BSP thread. The lead solder was sculpted to blend in with the contours of the tank, which I’ll probably paint. Tillite added, trial run. That worked, so here it is having effectively pre-heated the stove’s burner. John
That is a delicate work. The fine balance point in the area of jet orifices can be difficult to arrive at.
@presscall Hello, teacher. The preheater on my X359 is not working properly. Specifically, it's clogged, and neither air nor fuel is coming out. I would like to disassemble it, but I am unable to remove the red part in the image. To remove the red part, it looks like I would have to remove the reinforcing metal fitting inside the spring. To do that, I would need to remove the green part, but the green and blue parts appear to be a single piece of plastic. I have actually tried to disassemble it, but my knowledge is beyond my ability. Could you please tell me how to disassemble the red part?
@Camp numao Here’s the problem, the red part is made of of poor quality soft alloy metal and the air and fuel passages too readily collapse, as I discovered on sectioning one. I only managed to ‘dismantle’ that example by cutting it apart. The metal had fused to the nylon component (possibly internally threaded?) and wouldn’t budge. That prompted me to restore the atomising function by fabricating those alternative components I’ve described and pictured above, not visible externally but replacing the inadequate original internal structure. Meanwhile, since you speak of blockages, you might try using an acupuncture needle to probe the atomised fuel outlet orifice … Unfortunately, the acupuncture needle won’t gain access to the internal air passage through these air vents because a fine gauze filter is situated in the body of the nylon component. Discouraging I know, but I have faith in your ability to overcome the challenges the Tillite presents. John
@presscall Thank you for letting me know. Of course, I tried using a needle, but that didn't solve the problem. I tried stuffing a plug into the air hole in the fuel pipe inside the tank and pressurizing the tank, but no air came out, so I realized that the air intake was also clogged. Hmm, I guess there's no way to fix this. That's sad. I'll try the method you introduced. It's very difficult, so I'm not sure if it will work.
Correction Nether ‘fused’ or threaded, but bonded in manufacture. I retrieved the example I cut open, to clarify.
