Hi folks, just joined here. Bought a Tilley x246 on car boot sale and wanting to get it going. Before sending for service kit I thought I'd dismantle it. Surprisingly little on Google about servicing and nothing on Tilley website. I'm struggling to dismantle the pump/pressuriser. I've removed it from tank but can't figure how to get to the leather washer. There's a big knurled nut which unscrews a few turns and I thought it would release the rod and leather washer (like a bike pump) but it doesn't want to come out easily. Don't want to force anything and bust it. I think my model is the early guardsman (gold painted tank and brown cowl.) Any help much appreciated. Thanks
Welcome Smojo, You need to unscrew the part circled below fully and the pump rod should slide out. Sometimes the old pump leather can get gummed-up inside the tube and make it hard to dismantle. James.
When removing things like this its a good idea to wrap with a piece of leather to avoid chew marks from pliers etc If you want parts diagram go to Reference library - Catalogues + Parts - Great Brit - Tilley lamp Co - 1955 catalogue might be a good start. Graham.
Thanks, it looks exactly like that and I figured the smaller knurled part should unscrew from the main body. Most parts have unscrewed quite easily but this bit is tough. I figured I need to hold the main body tight and unscrew the smaller knurled part from it but didn't want to crush it in the vice. The larger knurled nut just seems to tighten down the washer onto the body is that correct?
Tilley do a service kit with all the washers etc but they are listed for the X246B which I presume is the current model they sell. I think I read somewhere that they also fit the old models, do you know if that's correct before I order one. thanks again
The rubber pip that goes in the pump valve is different for the X246B. Ross our forum founder sells washer kits for the older guardsman here. They are cheaper and IMHO better quality than the stuff Tilley sells. The pump parts can be tricky to dismantle. I suggest the liberal application of 3-in-1 oil to see if that frees it up.
Soak top in Kero/Paraffin if that doesn`t work Thinners-acetone (not recomended on one way valve seal) shoud disolve dried oil gum a hot air gun may help without resort to gas heating. Graham.
...and any paint that's on there, too. I'd try methylated spirit first if you're going to resort to chemicals. In reality, all you'll probably need to do is grip the two knurled parts with a pump wrench, mole grips, pliers or whatever and turn them against each other to unscrew them. As someone else said, be sure to use leather strips between the tool jaws and the knurled brass parts otherwise you'll chew them up... The seals kit you'll need is the 'old'498 - this has the plain NRV washer (Part No. 155) in it, as opposed to the later, shaped NRV washer (also 155 if memory serves) which fits the X246B model.
Hi I was talking of the top of the pump with solvent. I wouldnt expect paint there but if its a pork pie you are correct, Graham.
I have found with this older pattern of pump that it helps to loosen the large knurled ring before unscrewing the cap from the top of the pump tube. Use a large Mole wrench to grip the tube at the bottom where it's strongest. I use a pair of cheap soft-jawed water pump pliers for this type of job.
Hello guys If you don't have a soft grip waterpump pliers you can use a stripe of lead to make a soft grip. This will only work once or twice, then the lead is at its end. groetnis Henk
My X246B had that older style pump fitted when I got it... On mine I modified the pump so that it takes the new pip. All it required is a small peg soldered in place to act as a guide for the spring.
Yeah - got it out. The leather trick is a good one, gripped it well and protected it from getting chewed. Need to order a washer kit now. A couple more questions please. Is it necessary to grease the leather pump washer to help it seal and slide better (like we used to do with out bike pumps? Next question, the err um cock - when you remove the vapouriser tube you can see down into it. There's a small valve washer/seal. What's the best way to get it out and replace it? The knob has a small threaded collar which unscrews easy enough but doesn't seem to relaese any of the tap mechanism? Does the cock mechanism really need stripping right down to service it properly? thanks
No, not really. On older Tilleys, there's a shut off valve at the bottom of the control cock. It's not really needed in a kero lantern so it tends to go unmaintained and usually doesn't seal because it went hard years ago. If you want to replace it, it's Part No. 155 (same seal as in the NRV) but don't expect your lantern to perform any better. You get to it by unscrewing the gauze filter at the bottom end. Otherwise, there are two small gland seals which you get at by unscrewing the knob and gland nut. To remove the knob, grip the shaft with narrow pliers and unscrew the knob with another pair of pliers, using the strip of leather as before to prevent damage. You can usually get away with one seal, although Tilley say to use two...
Thanks everyone. I've fitted the new seals and a mantle just need some paraffin now. I was wondering where is the best/cheapest place to get it. My local old fashioned DIY shop sell it in plastic cans at £6.95 for 4 pints which seems expensive. Last time I got some was with my dad at the local petrol station. We filled a gallon can for about a shilling (5p to you young 'uns)but then that was 1963!
Is that not for 4 litres? Pre-packed kero is a rip-off. You may be able to find a garden centre or garage that sells it loose (i.e. take your own container) which is usually cheaper. Otherwise try your local allotment association. Another wheeze is to use 28-second heating oil which is kero. A tip for next year is to keep an eye out for places selling-off barbeque lighting fluid cheaply at the end of the season (assuming one actually begins next year ). It works fine as a kero substitute.
I thought it was only beer and milk that could be sold in pints in the UK? Oh well, no matter. Anyway, that's a disgraceful price to have to pay for kero. I do remember on my travels back here from somewhere in God's Own County (possibly Halifax), a garage in the Bratford-Bingleh area that sold loose kero. It was a while back, though...
A bit off-topic, but in 1970 when I was a student, I worked at a petrol station and we sold Aladdin Pink Paraffin. You got about 6 pints of paraffin for 2 shillings (a florin, remember them?) or 10p in today's money, from an odd type of fuel pump that filled an internal glass vessel then dispensed the contents by gravity into your own container. This made paraffin about 2s6d a gallon, at a time when petrol cost 6s8d a gallon. Ignoring the pre-decimal currency, paraffin cost around one-third the cost of petrol. How times have changed! The two fuels are roughly on a par nowadays, no doubt because demand for premium paraffin has virtually ceased. Some time ago when I used a gallon of paraffin a week for heating my greenhouse in winter, I obtained very good value from a local heating oil supplier by taking 6 or 7 empty 4-litre cans at a time along to the depot. This was about half the price of pre-packed paraffin. Phil
Well I finally got my lamp working. Been a struggle. After changing the seals and washers and pump spring I'd tried lighting it but the new mantle burnt down to a saggy looking mushroom and only half lighting. I suspected low pressure and could see some smoke/vapour coming out the pump. I was beginning to think I was wasting my time but had another crack at sorting it. So today I stripped pump right back again and cleaned all surfaces that mated with washers etc with wire wool and added a bit of thick grease to them and tightened well. That stopped pressure leaks. Lit it again and this time the extra pressure gave me a good light. After running it for ten minutes the mantle has shrunk back a bit more and looking more like it should. I was well chuffed. Sat in my cellar workshop with the lights off, watching my Tilley lamp glowing and listening to the gentle hiss was the highlight of my day. Sad bu**er or what!
Yes A good start . I think that as you use it more, you will find that it will work better and better. But, after you have got it working well, remember to use it at least once a month, then it will be always there when you need it. Well done Steve.
Cheers guys. just lit it again this morning to show my daughter. meths warmer died before it was hot enough and when I turned the tap on had a wonderful display of yellow flames and acrid smoke in my cellar. "Err don't try this at home I said". After another re-light it came on right enough. The wife is due home soon. First thing she'll say is "what's that horrible burning smell". "It's my Tilley lamp" I'll say. "Hope you're not gonna be lighting that so often" she say. methinks hmm we'll see.
When it's cold, it's best to use 2 meths torches to pre heat a Tilley, one right after the other, Jeff.
