Hello, I'm new on here. My friend has just given me a Bialladin 305. There seem to be no obvious faults. Before I get mantles, it seems sensible to start replacing the seals as they're dry. I've taken the lamp apart and there's no spring with the "pricker" in the vaporiser. Is this normal? I've tested the pressure and there was a reassuring hiss as I released the air release valve in the filler cap. Should I examine the pump valve? If so how do I get to it? Can I use the "V" part numbers as used with the modern Korean lamps in order to identify parts? Where should I start? I'm not a hobbyist. I intend using this as an emergency lamp. I just need to know what I'm doing. I'd be grateful for your advice.
Hi and welcome, If you want this lamp as a standby emergency lamp then I would change all the seals and then you know it is going to be good for use whenever you need it. You can get a complete set of new seals and new pump leather from "The Fettle Box" to the right of the screen, or from Base-Camp also linked here. The NRV is easily removed by unscrewing it from the bottom of the pump tube with a large flat blade screw-driver. Everything is easy to get at when you get down to it, and there are lots of instructions avalable here if you search for them. The spring for the vapouriser cleaning needle may well be still stuck up the bore of the vapouriser. You will be able to tell if this is so by replacing the needle and pushing the base end down on a hard surface. If it springs back the spring is very probably still in there. Gentle tapping on a hard wooden surface usually brings this out. Further tapping will dislodge any carbon debris form the vap tube, which is a good thing to do. The V numbers from the modern lamps still carry across to the older models. You can see an exploded view of the Bialaddin lamps on the Base-Camp site. Good luck with your fettling. Steve.
I've ordered a full set of seals as recommended. I suppose that "pricker" = cleaning needle. Should I order a new cleaning needle as well? The present one seems in good order - not broken and about 6" long - not the full length of the vaporiser. I'll use a spring from a ballpoint. Should I lubricate the threads of components eg vaporiser, burner tube to hold the mantle? They are very dry. At the same time, I don't want to clog the system with lubricant. Thank you for your advice.
If when you have the Pricker = cleaning needle in the vap tube and it springs back when pressed down on a hard surface you should be able to run your finger across the top of the vap tube and feel the needle just penetrating the jet. If this is OK I would try it before buying any new parts. If you do decide that new parts are necessary don't waste time on a new needle, go for a complete new vap. Lubrication on threads is not necessary, but a small smear of copper-heat proof brake grease will do no harm. Also only assemble the control cock and Vap tube to a stiff hand-tight; do not be tempted to crank it down with pliers etc. Steve.
This novice needs guidance. The set of seals from the The Fettle Box has arrived. It's fairly obvious which seals go where as they have to fit the diameters of the components. The cleaning needle is just visible at the top of the vaporiser tube. There is movement when I depress the cleaning needle at the base of the vaporiser. The NRV valve is too stiff for me to disassemble it and I don't want to use pliers so I can’t use the NRV valve refurbishment kit. What do you suggest? I am not sure how to fit the gland nut washer. The photos I’ve seen are not clear. It’s obviously a push fit onto a shaft but how is it done and where does it go? I shall have to get a replacement split pin for the filler cap air release screw. I need a knob for the jet cleaner. I need a new wick (no problem) I need mantles. (no problem) I can’t get the old seal out of the 1” filler cap easily so that it can be replaced. Can I lever it out with a screwdriver? The existing seals are viton according to the photos I've seen. I could just leave them and see if they leak. How do I soften the pump leather? I know that there must be something about this on this site somewhere... If I rinse the container with paraffin to clean it will that be enough? There are two holes for screws at the top of the hood. I suppose that a cap will be required. There is no frame nut. Perhaps the 305 doesn't need one? The frame is secured by 3 screws. I could just change the seals that I can, test the lamp and then change the ones I can't later. What do you suggest? I knew that there would be further need for support once I got started. I'd be grateful for your help.
OK, you obviously need help. Here are a few pointers to try and assist you. 1. The fact that you have movement when you depress the cleaning needle in the vap tube and that the top of the needle protrudes out of the Vap tube is a good sign, and would indicate that the spring is still in there. Did you manage to tap it out as I suggested you should? 2. I assume that you have got the NRV out of the pump tube. If you have, gently grip the NRV in a vice and use pliers to unscrew the NRV body. Do not "crunch it" they normally do not need too much pressure to release. You will then be able to get to the spring and NRV seal (pip). 3. Remove the control cock gland nut and dig out the old seal. You can burn it with a blow-torch and this will make the breaking up of the seal easier. 4. Same principle applies to the filler cap seal; dig out or burn and then dig. 5 You can get a new knob for the control cock from Base-Camp. 5. The air release screw split-pin is only there to stop the air release screw coming totally out. A short piece of brass/copper rod or wire will serve the same purpose, if fitted and bent so that it does not come out. Or get a new split pin from Base-Camp. 6. You mention a "new wick" This lamp does not have a wick. 7. It also does not have a frame-nut, the frame/cage is secured by three brass screws. 8. The Bialaddin 305 does not have a removable hood cap; so it is possible that you have the hood from a different model. 9. You only need to add a few drops of oil down the pump tube now and again to keep the leather oiled. Really, only if the pump is losing efficiency. 10. Rinsing the tank with paraffin will be ok. If there is a faily clean interior, just rinse until no more debris comes out. If the tank is dirty, a handfull of steel nuts or ball bearings placed in the tank and shaken, can help move crud stuck to the tank. Count them in and count them out to make sure that you have got them all out. 11. I would change all the seals, then you are starting from a fresh baseline. Finally, post a picture of the lamp, then we can see exactly what your problems may be.
Thank you so much for answering my questions so promptly. This site gives superb support! 1. When I depress the needle there is no corresponding movement at the top of the vap tube but there is movement at the base. The top of the vap tube has the top of the needle jammed into it. I cannot unscrew the base of the vap tube to withdraw the needle and de-coke it as you suggest. I have tried to unscrew it in a vice but not succeeded. It appears to have seized. The spirit bowl has seized to the vap tube. 2. I shall try to disassemble the NRV as you suggest. 3. Having examined the jet control again, I now understand what is meant by the control cock gland and, having removed the nut, will try at first to dig it out with a safety pin. Otherwise it's a blowtorch. Do I remove the shaft of the control cock to fit the replacement gland? I shall have to slide the replacement gland over the nut in fitting the replacement and that might stretch the gland too much. 4. By wick I mean the pre-heater that fits around the vapouriser. I have been using the part names in the Korean user manual for the M1B. The M1B has a frame nut; the 305 has, as you say, 3 screws. 5. I'll follow your advice for extraction of old seals in the filler cap. 6. I suspect that I have the hood of a different model. 7. I shall use a few drops of 3-in-1 to lubricate the pump leather. 8. In clarification, I fit one seal below the control cock and another above it where the vapouriser screws in? Are there any internal seals for this component apart from the gland? Again, thank you for all the prompt advice so far.
The control cock shaft gland slides off the end of the shaft when the knob is removed (think you said you need a new knob). If the knob is there it unscrews off the shaft but you may need to hold the shaft with pliers. You can then work on the gland nut to remove the old seal. Next slide a new seal onto the shaft. Then refit the gland nut. Try some heat & quench on the jammed pre-heater cup, that should shift it. A member produces new "wicks" and sells them via "Member's Services here on CPL (Loco7lamp). See the "Trading Post" Yes one seal under the control cock and another under the vap tube. Another seal in the filler cap, and another under the air release screw. Control cock shaft gland seal as discussed. NRV "pip" inside the NRV in a little brass cap, and finally another seal under the rim of the NRV when it is fitted back into the pump tube. Good luck
Things are going well so far. I'm starting to clean the burner assembly. How about washing it in soapy water and leaving it to dry thoroughly after de-coking? I've found a high temperature grease to lubricate the threads of the burner components: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=23&id_subcateg=86&id_products=108 http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-359/Products-by-Manufacturer/Penrite/Penrite-Copper-Eze This product is used as brake grease by my local garage. Is this suitable for greasing the threads in the burner? The Penrite site has product data sheets. Would greasing the thread at the bottom of the vap tube clog movement of the needle? Perhaps it would be better left ungreased? I don't want to pollute the paraffin.
My Bialladin 305 civilian version has the usual triangle stamped out on the side of the gallery to accommodate the jet cleaner knob. The bottom side of this triangle rubs against the underside of the jet cleaner knob so that it cannot rotate. I have tried to raise the level of the shaft of the cleaner knob by adding 3 seals to the base of the jet cleaner but this has not worked; I still get contact between the cleaner knob and the gallery. I want to avoid deforming the gallery if at all possible. Any suggestions?
The shaft of the control cock is too short. Either I have to find a way to extend it or I must modify the gallery. This is disappointing - I thought that everything would fit.
There are two shaft lengths - a longer one for lanterns with collars (300 and 305 at a guess) and a shorter one for those without collars such as the 310, 315 and 320...
My jet cleaner is brand new. I had no idea that there were two shaft lengths. I shall now have to find a way out of this. I shall have to enquire whether an exchange is possible.
it has the longer shaft brand new never been used as i have no use for it as mine works great its the 310 model
seems the picture didnt go though as i thought one day i will figure this thing out but if you care to see the item in question send a reply to my e-mail i can post the picture '
It all fits together now. Assembly is easy and straightforward. I've tested the seals by submerging everything underwater. No bubbles from the control cock, filler cap or vaporiser tube seals. The odd small bubble comes from the top of the pump - about one every 7 seconds or so. Is this normal? If not, what do you suggest? I have replaced the pump leather and the NRV seal. Have I missed anything?
Personally I use very soapy water and a paint brush to check for leaks, that way you can do it even with the lamp in operation... Obviously be careful not to splash the hout parts. There is no need to soap up around the conntrol cock spindle or the joint between the vapouriser and the part it screws into as leaks there will be liquid fuel and quite obvious. In answer to your question, there shounldn't be any bubbles BUT there might be if the water is warmer than the lamp and is slowly warming it up! If there really is a genuine leak where you suggest the pressure will normally push the pump back out...
The pump valve may need to be tightened more, or the valve washer may be getting old and needing to be replaced. The spring which holds the pip in the NRV., may be weak, stretching it sometimes cures that problem, the NRV., pip may also need to be replaced, do let us know how you get on, Jeff.
