Hello! I recently got myself a Primus Høvik Verk 1082. The stove pressurizes and seem to work ok, but have not tried to light it yet. After taking of the top, I found out what seems to be a missing part, or perhaps it is supposed to be like this? Here is a picture of where I believe it should be a part that connects the jet to the tube above.
It looks OK to me. There shall not be anything that connects the jet with the tube as you suggests. The gap is there so that air is allowed to be drawn in and mixed with the gas stream as it enters the mixing tube. Once the hood is in place, it will shield this area from draught to make it wind proof. Only thing that could be wrong is the height of the mixing tube (how close it is to the jet), but that's nothing we can judge by a photo. It looks a bit close to the jet, though.
Thanks for the help Christer! Now I do believe it might be safe to light the lamp. But I am not quite sure, It has been standing for quite a while, is there any parts other than the pumpleather and washer that might need a change? Must say that lanterns are fascinating, so much to learn.
A little update, I tried to light the lamp but there was a problem with the pressure. First I pumped up pressure, then I lighted the preheating cup with alcohol. When the preheating had warmed up for a few minutes, then suddenly kerosene started pouring out of the jet even if I had the control knob on closed and the needle was up. Is It normal that this happens when one adds pressure before one preheats? Would guess it is the same as a kerosene stove where one pumps first after the stove is heated up.
I only add a little pressure once the pre heating is well under way and once the lamp is lit, then I slowly increase the pressure, Jeff.
If it leaks in the off position you most likely need a new foot valve, also, if your lantern is 500 CP, the distance between the jet nozzle and the J tube (the part you just showed on your picture)should be 14.2mm. I had a similar problem, with a lantern I bought recently, in any case, it is good practice to replace all rubber parts in a lantern when you get it ( unless you know it has been well maintained) to prevent leaks or incidents. Parts you may need to do a full "overhaul" should be: Foot valve cleaning needle vaporizator tip preheater pip (the little rubber thing on the rapid, if you have one installed) filler cap seal lead gaskets for the generator and rapid preheater ( if you have one installed) Please post more pictures of your lantern!
Thanks for the help! What is a foot valve? Do you have any pictures or something similar of it? Also, wher might i get one? Here are also some pictures of the lamp.
The parts you may want are here: http://prela.ch/shop/shop.html Go to the left of the screen, on the menu you will see "Petromax", drop down menu to the 500 HK and they have a comprehensive list of the more common and hard to find parts, Pump parts, foot valve, gaskets, etc, I have bought from him before, and the parts are top notch. Also you can find them here: http://fettlebox.co.uk/pressure-lamp-seals-washers.html, although this link is more geared to British Lamps.
Hi Kristian A foot valve is a "bundventil" and you can find it at Fogas.se http://www.fogas.se/shop/1769---servicesats-till-primus-1020/ This is for the Primus 1020 Claus C
I must really suck at searching. Cant seem to find any foot valve on any of those sites. Gonna ask Fogas if they might have one spare. Can somebody tell me what a foot valve do and where it is located on the lantern? Thanks for the help so far!
Claus, Primus 1020 doesn't have the "foot valve", or bottom valve, at the lowest part of the fuel feed tube Weirdnerd is talking about. It's not needed on lanterns without a quick starter. What Fogas mean by bottenventil is probably the NRV at the bottom of the pump tube. I also doubt that this Høvik has this "foot valve" to shut off the fuel feed. Since it doesn't have a quick starter torch, there's really no need for it. (Perhaps it's there nevertheless, just to keep production simple and uniform between lanterns with and without the torch.) But it serves no purpose on a lantern that only preheat with meths. Kristian, you shall not pump this kind of lanterns until the preheating is finished! Just leave the control wheel in the position where the needle is in its lower position and let the preheating do its job. Just before the alcohol is about to extinguish, you can start to pump (after closing the air screw on the tank lid which shall stay open during preheating), and let the lantern come to light.
My memory is a bit vague, but I'm sure this variation of the HV 1082 does have a valve at the bottom of the feed tube. This is the variation that could be made into either a 1082 or 1084 by just adding a preheater torch. You can see the blanking plug in the tank and opening in the cage for the flame tube in the last photo. If it was to be set up as a 1084 it would need a valve.
Yes, that's quite plausible. But it's not needed for this lantern, so even if there is a valve, I wouldn't put any efforts in fixing it if it was leaking.
My lamp has a slight pulsing when it runs, is this normal or should I try to solve an issue with the pressure?
Could be it needs a cleanup, the generator and the filter at the lower part of the generator, you can fill up the fount with denatured alcohol and soak it for a couple of days, pour a handful of round bearings and shake it for a long time, then rinse it several times (every time with clean or filtered denatured alcohol)until you have the alcohol come out of the fount clean and without any debris., also your Preston loop ( the round circular part of the generator) could be clogged with burnt varnish, you could clean it with carburator cleaner, or with a pipe cleaner and a good solvent ( I used Hoppes gun cleaner)
Here is a good tutorial on how to perform a full cleanup an maintenance on your lantern ( courtesy of Erwin Schaefer): http://colemancollectorsforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/How-To-Rebuild-Petromax-4658060 Or direct link to file: http://colemancollectorsforum.websitetoolbox.com/file?id=961670
Thanks for the suggestions! I dont think it is the lamp that needs cleaning since it is unused. Yet I do believe it is the pump leather which is to old and need replacement. Also the fuel might be wrong since I use what we in Norway call tennvæske and not kerosene. Does anybody know what type of pumpleather the 1082 uses? Perhaps it is the same as the one in Optimus 111 stoves? Also, where might I buy a new pumpleather? I know Sefaudi at CCS makes em, but dont know if he makes for lanterns.
Success! Changed fuel and pump leather and it now burns much better. Am still wondering where to buy pump leather and if the pump leather might work between stoves like petromax. Gonna get myself an Optimus 930 and guess that it also might need a change.
Seems like you don't need one, but for future reference, yes he does. Essentially, a pump leather is a pump leather - as long as the size is correct, it doesn't matter whether it was meant for a lamp, stove, blowlamp or garden sprayer...
Bringing this thread to life once more. The lamp does not pulse any more and gives a very bright light which I think is about 350CP compared to other lamps. But now the light acts a bit like a candle-light, a bit har to explain but it kind of flickers a tiny bit. My best way to explain what I mean by flickering, is that the lamp gives out 350CP but about four times a second changes between 345-350CP for a few milliseconds each time. I dont have this problem with my other lamp which gives a very steady light instead. The 1082 pulsed before, but now I have changed the NRV, pump-leather and the tankcap-washer. This resulted in a much more better flow of gas as I can hear from the lamp. Has anybody had the same problem with flickering from a primus 1082 or a Petromax 350CP? Edit- Have found debrees of the ceramic part which might indicate that that might be the problem? It was not a big piece but it might make the part disfunctional.
Hello Kristian, anything which hinders the flow of the fuel and air mix can cause pulsing or flickering, including carbon build up on the pricker rod, Jeff.
Thanks for the suggestion Jeff! I was lucky to find a Norwegian dealer who sells all the spare parts for the 1082 or Petromax 828. Will update this thread when I have changed lots of the parts that might be defective, like the jet or the distance from the jet to the mixingchamber.
Hello Kristian, if there is carbon on the pricker rod, then just unscrew it and give it a good clean. Then screw it back in and set it to the correct height, there will be a small nut near the bottom of the rod and that acts as a spacer so that the rod can be set to the correct height, Jeff.
