Original X246 Fettle

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Tony Press, Mar 9, 2014.

  1. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    I just finished fettling this original, short-handled "pork pie" (but with a later model X246 pump).

    As it was found:


    1394330254-IMG_4076_opt.jpg


    It was very dirty and had much corrosion on the brass hood. Three of the legs were covered with some resin compound and solder at the base where they join the tank. Pressure testing did not reveal any leaks, so I removed the resin with a Dremel wire brush. I then half-filled the tank with water and put wet chamois on the joins and pump seat and proceeded to get rid of the lumpy solder with a blow-torch:


    1394330767-IMG_4087_opt.jpg


    1394330865-IMG_4089_opt.jpg


    1394330915-IMG_4091_opt.jpg


    The burner was worn out:


    1394331328-IMG_4083_opt.jpg


    The injector tube snapped at the thread when I tried to unscrew it:


    1394331483-IMG_4084_opt.jpg


    The other parts of the burner were corroded and loos fitting, so will now be used for emergency spares:


    1394331587-IMG_4780_opt.jpg


    All the other components were in good condition so they were stripped and the metal components cleaned in 1/3 vinegar/water for three hours, then two days in "Marine Clean":


    1394331830-IMG_4086_opt.jpg


    1394332575-IMG_4077_opt.jpg


    1394332620-IMG_4734_opt.jpg


    1394332696-IMG_4079_opt.jpg


    1394332740-IMG_4737_opt.jpg


    1394332786-IMG_4078_opt.jpg


    The vaporiser was then heated and quenched a few times, then cleaned with carburettor cleaner. The cleaning needle was cleaned with steel wool.


    Putting it back together:


    1394333095-IMG_4783_opt.jpg


    1394333145-IMG_4790_opt.jpg


    1394333194-IMG_4784_opt.jpg


    1394333251-IMG_4792_opt.jpg


    As the hood was heavily corroded, I cleaned but did not polish it within an inch of its life, as it will go black with use anyway.


    1394333316-IMG_4795_opt.jpg


    The tank was painted with an acrylic metallic car paint (Renault Gold) then overcoated with VHT Wheel Clear Coat and baked at 94C for one hour.

    Washers, seals and leather from the Fettle Box.

    All I need now is an original pump:


    1394334120-IMG_4731_opt.jpg



    My Pork Pies are breeding!



    1394333397-IMG_4796_opt.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Messages:
    16,576
    Location:
    Shetland Islands UK..
    It's looking good! :thumbup: :thumbup:
     
  3. loco7lamp

    loco7lamp Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2011
    Messages:
    778
    Nice one Tony :D/ :D/ 8) :thumbup:

    Stu :D :thumbup:
     
  4. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Here it is up and running (in the middle of the day):


    1394421148-IMG_4800_opt.jpg

    The cap on the hood is an old one that lost 99.99% of its enamelling. I've painted it with a high temperature black which is used for engines and exhausts. It hasn't flaked or blistered. I'll keep this cap on for 'use' rather than show.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Digout Australia

    Offline
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Nice Fettle Tony
     
  6. loco7lamp

    loco7lamp Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2011
    Messages:
    778
    Hi Tony

    One of Shedmans brass repro caps would be great for showing time on your tasty pork pie 8) :D/ :D/ :thumbup:

    Stu :D :thumbup:
     
  7. Apples

    Offline
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2013
    Messages:
    10
    Excellent fettle, sir! Mechanically superb, in fact...

    I too when home will run a lantern or three in the "middle of the day" /all day in the north-facing shade of my shop.

    :-)
     
  8. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Stu,

    I used one of Shedman's brass caps here:

    http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/5984


    The original orange cap is in good nick so I'll keep it for show.

    Apples,

    I was just testing it on its first post-fettle light up, but I did use it later that evening to lock the chooks up. It's going very well.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  9. Matty

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2015
    Messages:
    2,586
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    Tony,

    That is one fantastic job you have done on this lamp.

    When you said you painted the fount with metallic auto paint, was it high heat paint? Do you use a high heat primer for parts you are going to bake?
     
  10. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Matty

    For the tank, I used a standard metal etch primer, standard auto paint, then covered with VHT-brand clear coat baked (all paints at once) at 94C.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  11. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    PS. And I now have an original pump for that lantern (above).
     
  12. Matty

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2015
    Messages:
    2,586
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    Ah, etch primer. I have tried what you do but with just normal primer, not high heat and it has peeled.

    I did buy some etch primer today. I also bought some white appliance paint to give it a go.

    Tony, the original pump you have. Would you look at the two lanterns I posted and tell me if they are original please.
     
  13. Mark Strachan

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2015
    Messages:
    18
    Hello Tony, I'm new to this forum and to collecting lanterns. I've already acquired a couple of very tidy X246's finished in Speculum over Brass (early 1950's) and need to replace the double o'ring seal on the burner control shaft. Does the knob simply unscrew? how tight are they normally? Do in need to hold the shaft with pliers while unscrewing? any help would be appreciated!
     
  14. Matty

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2015
    Messages:
    2,586
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    This baffled me for awhile as the knob seemed too tight that it actually unscrewed.

    The knob turns anti-clockwise. They can be very tight. I often soak the unit in vinegar to help loosen it up then do what I need to do to get it to turn. If that means holding whatever you need with pliers, do it. Just be gentle.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2017
  15. Lamp Doctor Australia

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2013
    Messages:
    622
    Location:
    Geelong
    To remove the knob Bernie told me from Sands in Melbourne.
    Turn knob anti clockwise by hand then protect knob grab with pliers and give it a quick twist no need to hold shaft etc .
    His method works really well .
    to reinstall just turn clockwise by hand that's it .
    Bob
     
  16. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Exactly...
     
  17. Mark Strachan

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2015
    Messages:
    18
    Thanks for your help Guys! :lol:
     
  18. Matty

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2015
    Messages:
    2,586
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    Tony,

    I read where you had used Renault Gold to repaint the fount. In your opinion, how close to the Tilley colour is it?

    It looks very good but photos can sometimes be misleading - colour wise.
     
  19. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Matty

    What you see in the photo (at least on my screen) is about what it looks like in the flesh.

    In my view it looks good, but compared to original Tilly gold, it's a bit darker (more bronze-looking).

    VHT-brand Universal Gold is pretty good too:

    http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/7843

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  20. Matty

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2015
    Messages:
    2,586
    Location:
    Queensland, Australia
    Thanks Tony,

    Both the fettles look outstanding.

    I wonder if the actual name of the Tilley colour is known?
     
  21. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    11,027
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Well, Matty, the big question is whether today's Tilley gold is the same as the Tilley gold of 1948...

    You could ask Tilley themselves:

    tilleylamp.co.uk


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  22. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith India Founder Member

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Messages:
    8,416
    Location:
    North-East England
    You could, but if my experience with them is typical, sadly, you'll probably find they can't remember what they did 67 minutes ago, never mind 67 years... :doh:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2017
  23. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom RIP - Founder Member

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    Messages:
    6,883
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    The best match I have found is Plasikote Brass. Looks too bright but if you ever see a new in box early X246 then you will see they were a bright brassy gold colour. Mostly what we see is very time dulled paint which tends to make us think they were always like that but they weren't they were bright gold. ::Neil::
     

Share This Page