Trying to identify lamp

I found this Tilley lamp in my shed and I would like to restore it. After cleaning it I found a code on the bottom. It appears to be a date code (964) showing Sept 1964 manufacture followed by two letters (XA). On the side of the tank KINGDOM has been stamped after the 'Made in England' emboss.
I have searched online a lot and get close but cannot identify this particular model. I want to order parts and of course need to know the model to do this.
Any ideas?

 

All the wiser folks are sound asleep right now, but I'm awake in the States.

What you have appears to be an X246A lantern. All you should need to put it right again is a new set of seals/washers, and maybe a new pump leather.

Spiritburner puts together excellent overhaul kits you can find: http://www.fettlebox.co.uk/

He uses Viton for his seals, so they will outlast the two of us.

Cheers,

Al

 

Definitely a Tilley X246A made in September 1964.

Look in the Gallery and you will see others:

http://www.classicpressurelamps.com/forum/showgallery.php?fid/159/

I agree with Al: order a set of washers etc from The Fettle Box.

 

It's a X246A, but is that a steel tank?

 

Yes it's steel. You can see the rust pitting. The base (underside) is a different metal though.

 

Thanks so much for the input. That's amazing... I only posted this earlier today have all the information I need to get started.
One more question. When I was cleaning the brass fitting where the mantle attaches, there was a spring-washer/clip which broke in half. It seems to hold the mantle on somehow. Hopefully it was for that particular type of mantle and the new ones just use a draw-string?

 

The "spring washer" is most likely the metal clip for the Tilley Happy Mantle. Get a tie on one - the Happy Mantles are prone to fail by heating up the metal bit, then slipping down and breaking.

Are you sure the tank is steel? Put a magnet on it to make sure. You may just gave corrosion on the brass under the plating.

Cheers

Tony

 

Al,
I have been to the website you recommended and I am not sure of which kit to buy. There is such a range - some kits seem to contain washers that others have as well so confused as to what to buy.
Another question: Is my lantern classed as a 'newer' lantern or is it one of the old ones?
It refers to: (NB The pump valve/control cock washer will not fit the later Tilleys without washer holder).
Thanks in advance,
Ian

 

Hi.
If I do not remember wrong, the X246A was manufactured between 1960 and 1964.
That should mean that yours is one of the last made.
The contemporary, X246B, has 50 years birthday this year.

 

Could you post a closer picture of the pump and stop cock...

These parts often get swapped arround and this makes a difference as to what washers you require.

In some circumstances you may be unlucky and require both types of non return valve washer. Normally the same one would be used in both the pump and the control cock.

It looks to me like your control cock may be a newer aluminium one...

 

You need the "Tilley Washer Kit" £4.40; but you probably have the 'modern' (X246B-type) non-return valve pip at the end of your pump - instead of looking like a flat disc of rubber (as in The Fettle Box kit), it looks a bit like a small rubber mushroom. The 'stalk' end fits directly into the spring.

I have many of these to spare so if you PT me your address, I'll post one over the ditch.

Tony

 

Hello,

Your lamp is a late production of an early model, so you may have a mix of parts. Tony is spot on that you need to look at your NRV pips to see which you need (round or square).

Welcome to the forum! Customer service 24/7/365!

Al

 

Welcome aboard!

 

September 1964 is the latest example I know of for this model. I have an example of X246B listed for December '64 but neither model listed for Oct and Nov that year.

No the tank is not steel. These lamps were never made with steel tanks. That is not rust it is just the brown patination of the brass showing where the plating has failed. Try a magnet on it. If it sticks I will be astonished and very interested. ::Neil::

 

These show the control cock and pump.

 

.. and the valve pip. The neoprene valve face looks in very good condition.

 

Neil and Gneiss.. you are quite right. It's brass.

Tony... I am interested in what you think now you can see the photos.

Jeff and Al... Thanks! It's a great place to get the 'good oil' on my latest project.

 

OK: you don't need my "mushroom" NRV pip. You will replace what you have with one of the flat disc-shaped ones from The Fettle Box. You will use the other in the bottom of the control cock.

By the way:

That's the first time I've seen that form of Tilley NRV.

Cheers

 

Thanks for that Tony. Once I get the pack(s) (I ordered a few things) I will see how I go and maybe ask for more advice at that stage.
Cheers
Ian

 

While you are waiting for your bits and bobs, do as much of this as you can:


1. The best method for cleaning up the plating:

Empty the tank. Submerge it in 1/3 vinegar to water for a few hours. Empty the tank and clean off any accumulated crud from the outside with a damp cloth. If need be use soapy water. If that doesn't work on accumulated kerosene residue, use some turpentine.

You can then, if needed, polish with Autosol or similar (but NOT polish which has ammonia - it corrupts the brass).

Then to finish off, polish with car wax - it will keep it clean and protect the plating.

In your case you will still see the places where the plating has come off, but your tank will look much better.

Then...

General advice for the first time Tilley fettler:

1. Take it all apart gently and clean dirt and oil off everything.

2. Soak the burner and its various parts in 1/3 vinegar and water for two hours, clean with a cloth or if it's really dirty, some 00 or 000 steel wool. Make sure there is no gunk (or wasp nests) inside the burner and the airtubes. Tighten all the bits up to very tight hand tight then a slight tightening with multi-grips lined with thin leather. Check that all looks clean and tight and clear.

3. Take the vaporiser off. Check that the tiny pointy end of the vaporiser needle makes its way through the vaporiser nipple (less than 1mm is needed) by carefully but firmly pressing the bottom of the needle on a hard surface and watching the top of the vaporiser.

4. Then take the needle out and soak both the needle and the vaporiser in the vinegar mixture for a few hours. Clean the needle (carefully) with steel wool and tap the vaporiser firmly many times to clean out any carbon inside it. Refit the needle and make sure it can emerge from the tip of the vaporiser.

4. Take the control cock apart (look at The Base Camp site for an exploded view of the control cock) and soak it in the vinegar mixture for a few hours and thoroughly clean it.

5. Do the same for the pump.

6. Then replace all the washers and seals with new ones (you can order from The Fettle Box).

7. Clean out the fount by also soaking in the Vinegar mix, drying (with a hair dryer if need be), then flushing with kerosene a few times.

8. Tighten everything up. The externally fitted bits like the control cock and the pump are only fitted to hand tightness.

9. Fill the tank to 3/4 with clean kerosene (850mm). Put on a new mantle.

Good luck.

Cheers

Tony

 

Same here. Normally they look like this:-


This isn't my image and I can't remember where it came from. Apologies to the owner but it's an excellent illustration and deserves being posted IMHO. I'll be happy to remove it if I've infringed anyone's copyright...

 

A word of warning....

Be very careful tightening or loosening anything on the burner. If it has been well used the threads and the air tubes themselves become very soft and are very easily damaged. I've broken the old style ones myself just trying to remove them from the hood. If it doesn't come out easily it may be better to do the best you can with it in place.

 

Yes, I'd advise against unscrewing the various parts (air intake tubes and burner dome) unless you absolutely have to. Over time, the threads erode with the heat and once apart, it can be difficult or even impossible to screw them back together.

 

Tony, thats fantastic thank you.
I have been cleaning it as I pulled it apart but will soak everything in vinegar (brown vinegar I assume) to ensure that it's all free of residue before fitting the new washers and pump leather. My gut tells me to leave the valve at the bottom of the pump alone (initially anyway) as it appears to be in excellent condition with no pitting whatsoever. What do you suggest?
I am not sure how to clean the rust off the cage though - I will try the vinegar I guess but I would like to make it 'like new' somehow if possible. Is a wire brush (on a bench grinder) too severe to get the bulk of the corrosion off the cage?
The cap is really rust damaged too.. I have some high-temperature black gloss firebox paint. Can I use that after sanding it... or should I just leave it alone and do the same as you suggest for the tank?
Finally, I have found a parts manual and it confirms that something was not quite right with the pump plunger when fully retracted (it slops all over the place) - the plunger spring is missing. I have looked on Fettle Box but no spring is listed. Any suggestions as to where to get one?
Cheers
Ian

 

Hello Ian, I have seen that type of NRV., many times and it's a step down in quality from the one which David has shown.

But it's better than the modern offering and your seal cup is still made from brass, the later ones were made from aluminium and then Tilley did away with the seal cup altogether and went to the thing that they still use today, happy fettling from Jeff.

 

1. It doesn't matter what vinegar: ....cheap is fine.

2. You should prod the rubber in the valve at the bottom of the pump: if it is hard, replace it, because, if you don't, when you pressurise the tank, fuel will escape into the pump and your lamp won't work.

3. Clean the rust off the cage with a wire brush, then use rust converter, then paint with a metal primer, then use a high temperature flat silver paint to finish. I use a "VHT" flat silver to finish.

4. The hood is more of a difficulty: if you are going to use the lamp rather than put it on "display", it really doesn't matter: I just clean up the rust, use rust converter, then, with a small brush, apply "pot belly stove black". If you want a fancy display, and you don't like your hood, get a new one from "Tilley" or a new or 2nd hand one from eBay.

5. I'll get to in a few minutes...

Cheers

Tony

 

5. I'll look to see if I've got a spring...

 

I've never had to use VHT paint anywhere on a lantern or stove. As far as I'm aware, the manufacturers didn't either.

Paint in 'rattle cans' for car panels is fine for tanks (founts or whatever you call them down-under) and also for the globe cage - the heat from the lantern will just 'stove' the paint on a bit and make it dry quicker and harder, that's all...

 

... In Oz (and NZ, where this guy comes from), VHT is a brand... Some of it is high temp; some very high temp; and some is extreme temp.

You can buy all kinds in what you call 'rattle cans' .

I was meaning to suggest he buy the most basic VHT flat silver, because I've used it before, it's inexpensive, and it wears very well.

Cheers

 

You don't even need "high temperature" paint. The stuff "in 'rattle cans' for car panels" is sufficient...