tilley info needed

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by allanh53, Oct 9, 2014.

  1. allanh53

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    hi found this tilley lamp in a skip gave it a bit of a clean, dont know if it works or not but it says on it "Tilley Manufactured in united kingdom" and on the underside of the base has the numbers " 1174". think its worth having a go at fixing and getting parts?
     
  2. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Your pics didn't load properly.

    It is a 1974 made Tilley...
     
  3. allanh53

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    cheers will have a go at uploading again
     
  4. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Welcome aboard Allan! :thumbup:
     
  5. Gneiss

    Gneiss Subscriber

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    Well done for rescuing it... :thumbup:

    I suspect everyone here is already guessing it will be an X246B.

    Like these? http://www.classicpressurelamps.com/forum/showgallery.php?fid/160/

    In my opinion as long as it doesn't cost more than it's worth and/or you enjoy doing it then any lamp is worth fixing up.
     
  6. allanh53

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    ah the file was too big in the first part now its sorted so here it is. the only part i see missing is the pre lighter and the mantle (or wick ? ) think thats what you call it apart from that looks in good nick
    1412979861-tilley4.jpg
     

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  7. Matthew92

    Matthew92 Subscriber

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    Very good nick I'd say, better than most of the crap for sale on ebay. Next job, get it lit. :thumbup: :thumbup: :D
     
  8. Cigarman

    Cigarman Subscriber

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    Ebay is luck of the draw for sure but its not all bad. For example, X246 from 9/1970 with 3 uses on it in its original box. I couldnt ask for better.
     
  9. allanh53

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    ive just ordered a few mantles and a pre heater for my above tilley, but was wondering about the insect shield
    that is missing, is it a vital part of the lamp and will it work just as well without it? they seem a bit expensive if all that it does is to keep insects out. dont know if the lamp works as yet dont want to have a go at lighting it without the mantle and pre heater in case i blow myself up :roll: anyhow thanks chaps input will be greatfully accepted. Allan
     
  10. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith India Founder Member

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    :-k Do you have much of a problem with large insects in Cumbria during October? The insect shields were for export models only.

    If I were you, I'd read and understand the instructions before you try to light your lantern. You'll find some on the Base-Camp website:-

    http://www.base-camp.co.uk/
     
  11. kerry460

    kerry460 Australia R.I.P.

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    G,,day . a piece of lightweight mesh cut into a circle about 75 mm diameter with a hole in the centre will slide down over the vapouriser and rest on the globe .
    you have a bug screen .
    the hole needs to allow just a bit of movement for expansion .

    kerry
     
  12. allanh53

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    cheers dave just had a look and saved the lighting info :clap:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2017
  13. allanh53

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    good idea kerry will give that a go anything to save money i dont have :D/
     
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  14. allanh53

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    Just one more question is it clockwise for ON or OFF ? :oops:
     
  15. kerry460

    kerry460 Australia R.I.P.

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    clockwise = off .
    then release pressure after flame is out .
    it is not a positive valve .
    if you don't release pressure it will probably dribble kero .
    kerry
     
  16. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    I would never run a storm lantern outside in Australia without a lower insect shield. The mantle would be promptly destroyed

    But they were not standard items in the UK. They were standard for exported Tilleys - I can only assume insects are much calmer in the UK than they are overseas...

    A very good substitute for a lower insect shield is one of Stu's (loco7lamp) pre-heaters: placed below the globe, they ensure that all entering insects get fried before reaching the mantle. Kerry460 also makes a good preheater that does the same thing.

    Over time I've collected a bunch of top insect shields: I fit these to the lanterns I use outside a lot.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  17. Claus C

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    It is not a problem with the Petromax-types here in Danmark - I guess its a Tilley-type problem only?

    http://0flo.com/index.php?posts/38493

    Claus C
     
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  18. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Claus

    It is the shape of the Tilley 171 and 182 globes, and the fact that they have a hole in the bottom through which the vaporiser passes, and under which the Tilley "clip" pre-heater was lit.

    Without an insect shield or some other obstruction, Australia's kamikaze moths head straight up through the opening and bash into the mantle!

    See the Tilley X246 below. The 18th picture in the post shows the 171 globe from the top in position on the lamp, and demonstrates the size of the opening without the insect screen:

    Original X246 Fettle

    Cheers

    Tony
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 29, 2019
  19. allanh53

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    well mantles and preheater arrived other day, stripped the lamp down and everything looked ok all seals in good nick, half filled it with parrafin and went by the instructions off the tilley manual to fire it up. soaked preheater in meths and attached it to the vapouriser and lit it let it burn for a couple of mins till it died down then turned the control knob to ON gave a couple of strokes on the pump but nothing happened for a while just a hissing noise coming from the top then it sort of fired up and i mean fired up!! there was flames pouring out the hood managed to turn it off and it burnt itself out. i could see fuel dripping from the hood does that mean its spraying too much fuel? and could the vapouriser be kaput? how do i checked the vapouriser and what do i look for? many thanks. allan
     
  20. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hello Allan, you did not pre heat it enough and the flames from the meths torch need to be still reaching the mantle when you open the control cock and you did not have enough pressure in the tank.

    The weather is getting colder now, so it's a good idea to use 2 torches one after the other.

    It is possible that the vapouriser's jet has become enlarged.

    There are lighting instructions in the reference library, but it's only open to subscribers.

    Perhaps another member lives near to you and can offer assistance, Jeff.
     
  21. allanh53

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    hi jeff i got the lighting instructions off here as i am a member now, come to think of it the leather that goes in the pump is a bit worn possibly could be that.but i dont know how to check the vapouriser theres nothing in the manual about testing it. anyhow will have another go tomorrow and see what happens (not in the shed this time) out doors :D allan
     
  22. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hello Allan, the link below shows instructions and if you pre heat the lantern enough and you still get flames shooting out of it, then the most likely cause is a worn jet, but it can be caused by other things, which is why it can be a good idea to get assistance, Jeff.

    http://0flo.com/index.php?threads/813
     
  23. Gneiss

    Gneiss Subscriber

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    The best way to "fill" the pre heater is to submerge it in methylated spirit until the bubbles stop. It should burn for a good few minutes and if it's really cold and or windy you may need to do it twice... I've never had to do so in a shed/garage but others have found this to be the case.
     
  24. allanh53

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    had another go at lighting the lamp, preheated it twice and it started to below smoke again and flamed up :^o so its looking more likely a new vapouriser but there quite expensive to buy :-({|= . ive seen a few seconds on the BAY but untested so i would be buying blind. as the saying goes you dont replace one guitar string you replace the lot as i have learnt. will ponder over this one. allan
     
  25. allanh53

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    hello all! i.m just about to purchase the service pack 1 for the above lamp but looking at the contents there doesn't appear to be a filter cap for the control cock included in the package , ive looked on the tilley web site but they dont seem to sell them serparately only the complete control cock itself :roll: as you see in the picture the guaze is peeling away so needs a new one. can anyone put me in the right direction please. allan 1413915022-control_cock_2_opt.jpg
     

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  26. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Allan

    You could see if the gauze can be gently pushed back into place. Remember that it is a filter, so the pressure is from the tank end.

    If you were feeling really brave, you could put a dab of solder to keep it in place, or a spot of industrial resin.

    If you are confident that your tank is very very clean, and so is your kerosene, then it is not necessary to have the filter (gauze). You could run it this way until you got a new one.

    You can buy the correct component (part 555) from The Base Camp.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  27. allanh53

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    Cheers tony will have a go at pushing it back in, its not torn in any way its just come out of the rim. and now to order service pack 1 and go from there, thanks again ----allan
    PS: i'm going to clean the tank out befor replacing all the sealants
     
  28. allanh53

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    all done works a treat it was basically replacing seals and hours of cleaning! not bad from a skip :lol:

    1414163058-tilley_working.jpg
     

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  29. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    That's good news! :thumbup:
     
  30. Mike_B

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    Result - all the more so given the source!
     

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