I have decided to work on restoring a Vapalux 320, and move onto my FrankenAida a little later. I have encountered a few problems and need a few answers to some tasks ahead. The Non return valve will not unscrew, so I cannot get in to replace the seal there. I have tried putting it in a vice but not sure how much pressure I should apply. Whats the easiest way of loosening this? Whats the easiest way to degrease and generally clean things. For instance the Vaporiser and preheater Both look very dirty, and the preheater is an awkward shape to sand etc. The Aluminium frame looks dirty, is there a good way of cleaning this? If a Citric acid mix is recommended for any of the above, what strength should it be? i have obtained some crystals but not sure of the mixing strength. Thanks in advance.
I've only been "into fettling" for a relatively short while compared to most on here but in the case of a stuck control knob I've saturated the whole assembly in WD40 and left it for 24 hours to soak in.(Gunk is also good) When unscrewing stuff never put it in the jaws of a vice/mole grips etc directly or you will damage the surfaces - I wrap a thin piece of leather before putting anything in a vice or mole grips. My best bit of kit for sanding awkward spots and a degree of precision is a multi tool (dremel or similar) and a flexible shaft but don't be tempted to buy cheap attachments on fleabay as they usually fall to bits as soon as you use them. That's my thoughts.......
A chuffing big wide-bladed screwdriver will usually suffice. If no luck the conventional way, try putting the screwdriver in the vice and turn the tank while pressing down with your chest. But you shouldn't have to resort to that. How do you put the NRV in a vice before you've removed it? Or am I misreading your post? I simply don't understand this fetish some folk have for 'cleaning', 'sanding' or whatever. What's the point? - they'll just get filthy again next time you light the lantern...
If you buy a minger as a user rather than as a collector I think there's some pride & satisfaction for a lot of folk in getting a base level clean & service done before you put the lamp to use. If it gets mucky then it's your muck, not someone elses. For a lot if not most people a lamp's a nice tool. Tools often get cleaned despite the fact they'll get mucky again. How many of us wash our cars? Similar to what they say in the hiking world - light your own light!
Yeah, like everyone, I can understand basic cleaning to get other folks' muck off and to make something presentable and pleasurable to use. I see nothing out of the ordinary in soaking in cheap vinegar, using metal polish and/or fine wire wool where appropriate, stripping and respraying tanks if necessary and so on. But for some people, 'cleaning' goes way beyond that and seems to involve an unending pursuit to remove every last speck of dirt and polish every last bit of brass to a mirror-like shine - the lamp's become almost aseptic before they're satisfied. That's what I don't understand and, to me, that disrespects the lamp, completely ignores its history and turns it into something it never was i.e. a shiny trinket. Check out 'rebral' (and various others) on eBay to see what I mean. And as for using sandpaper on a lamp - no, no, no - never!
I think Manlee has removed it and wants to know how to take the NRV apart to replace the pip. Heating and quenching will get it apart easily but it will ruin the spring inside which will need to be replaced.
To quote Billy Connolly - "hanging's too good for them - it's a good kick up the arse, they need..." Maybe, but initially at least, he was asking how to remove it; hence my confusion. Still, that's nothing new these days...
I am very much in agreement with David on this one. Yes, there is the satisfiction of picking up something that is rusty, non functional etc, giving it an overhaul and getting it working again. ALL of the lamps in my little collection are working and are "worked" by myself and our Scouts and are a very useful and reliable bit of kit (you can't warm up a sausage roll on a battery light ) I don't see the point of having "shelf queens" collecting dust - in my mind it seems a little pointless getting something working and then putting it back in the box - but that's my own view and I'm sure some will disagree with my thoughts. Yes, I am spraying tanks and getting a lamp to a condition where it has just come out of the box but with the knowledge I'm gaining from fettling pressure lamps means that at least I can have a go at repairing things when they go wrong and I've no doubt that some of the "as new" lamps in our scout store will get bruised and battered and some time in the future I'll be fettling/servicing or repairing said lamp all over again! Surely that's all part of the wonders of pressure lamps? To see a rusty old lamp going cheaply and thinking to myself "I can get that going again" is in my eyes far better than seeing a gleaming overpriced "ornament" and thinking "How much polishing is that going to need? " (gets off soapbox and shuffles away slowly.. )
To answer some of the points made. I have the NRV valve out, but I cannot open it to replace the pip. As regards cleaning, what I plan to do is repspray the Fount silver. Try to save the remains of the label on it. Give it a general overhaul and "spruce" and very much have it as a lamp that will be used long into the future with new valves fitted, whilst giving me confidence to tackle bigger projects moving forwards. I can also see the beauty in some lamps being polished and the brass being shown off at it's best. If I then chose to use that lamp, it's MY problem to have to clean it after a summers use, but thats half the fun? As regards Vinegar, is this an overnight soak thing? or do I need to be wary about leaving it too long. I assume we mean white vinegar as well?
1: Soak NRV in penetrating oil. 2. Put the bottom of the NRV in a drill chuck and tighten the chuck. 3. Use the appropriate tool to unscrew the top of the NRV while holding the drill chuck firmly. With vinegar, use 1:3 vinegar to water; soak for a couple of hours. If you see any brass go pink take it out straight away. Rinse with water. Cheers Tony
No, we mean the cheapest vinegar available - from the likes of Makro or similar. You'll be surprised how aggressive it is so a 20 minute soak is sufficient. Then 'work' the dirt with your thumbs to remove it and repeat as necessary until the dirt is gone. Do NOT leave it in overnight otherwise the more reactive zinc is leached from the brass leaving a copper coating. This is a total pain to remove! Also, the stink will not meet with SWMBO's approval. You have been warned!! Believe me, I know...
Thanks for the advice and specifics, exactly what I was looking for. I know some of these questions may seem second nature to you experienced types, but the last thing I want to do is damage a lamp rather than fix it. Any views on Citric acid and it's uses and mix ratio?
I'll be down my unit late Monday morning in Brenzett, if your still having problems, bring it down and we'll have a play with it over a coffee P.s if you still work for a living, perhaps early one evening ok Just PM me
When trying to clean brass surfaces, total immersion in liquid acid (citric or acetic) is often not convenient or necessary. Trying to preserve decals using that method is hard to achieve. Hence, as Sidders has suggested - GSR. This method was first described by master stove fettler George (kerophile). 9. I promised you the secret of GSR ( George's Stove Restorer). You must NOT reveal this to others!. If you do not favour full immersion, or only have "spot" corrosion to treat, the answer could be GSR. Make up a pint-or-so of cellulose wallpaper adhesive. Add a couple of teaspoonsful of anhydrous citric acid crystals and stir. The mixture needs to be thick enough to adhere to vertical and horizontal surfaces, but thin enough for the citric acid solution to do its job. The mixture should be painted onto the brass item and periodically agitated with a toothbrush or similar. Once the object is clear of tarnish, rinse and dry as described earlier. Kerophile's full article on restoration (of stoves) can be found here.
I've used DLR (David's Lamp Restorer - similar to GSR but using vinegar instead of citric acid) on many an occasion and I can vouch for it's effectiveness at removing muck, but not decals/transfers...
