So I have this Amish Hipolito (another thread) that has a leak due to a previous dodgy soldering job: I can sweat copper pipe just fine with flux and plumbing solder....I build guitar pedals so I have a lot of experience with 60/40 rosin core electrical solder... Just looking for some pointers with making this repair. My inclination is to strip the lantern back to just the fount. I'm not comfortable with the lead washers, leather pump cup and any rubber parts surviving the heat needed to fix it. Then ?....flush the fount with rubbing alcohol a few times then water then let it air dry for a few days ? What's a good procedure for soldering once the fount is "flammable free" ? MAPP gas torch...flux...then ? plumbing solder ? Thanks for any pointers !! Dan
You will need only electrical or plumbers solder so your guitar pedal experience is fine. After cleaning out the tank, fill it with water to below the part you want to re-solder. Use wet rags to cover the other parts of the tank that you don't want unsoldered. Use a propane torch aimed at the bits you want to re-solder. Use a marking pen or toothpaste to cover the surrounding area to prevent solder sticking where it's not wanted. Cleanliness, patience and plenty of flux is the key.. Cheers Tony
Here is some advice from master fettler George (AKA Kerophile) over at Classic Camp Stoves. "1. You must have a good torch, with a narrow flame, that allows you to focus on the area you want to heat. 2. You need to raise the temperature of the area you want to solder, in a controlled way by applying heat, testing if the solder has melted, and if not applying a little more heat, until you get a result. 3. Home repairs were often done with Plumbers solder which does not all melt at a fixed temperature, but instead goes through a pasty stage, at which time the solder can be wire-brushed off a surface, or a part detached from the stove. 4. Adjoining areas can be protected from some of the heat by wiring wet tissues or rags to the areas you want to protect. Wet tissues can also be inserted into pump tubes. You can also apply aluminium foil to feet to shield from direct torch flames. 5. Make sure that all surfaces to be soldered are well prepared, fluxed, and tinned before attempting soldering attachments. 6. If you use solder-cored electricians solder for repairs, this has two advantages: It melts at a fixed temperature rather than going through a pasty stage. Secondly it melts and then freezes at a slightly lower temperature than plumbers solder. 7. Practice on an old stove tank, or with scraps of brass sheet to improve your skills, before attempting soldering work on a prized stove." Cheers Tony
I use a "creme brulee" gas burner. The more expensive ones have a nice sharp gas flame. make sure the fitting is fixated (?) they are put in from inside the tank. So once the solder becomes soft it drops IN the tank. Which isn't bad, you can't loose it, but it is a hell of a job to get it in the right place again :-)
Very good soldering advice there, Tony. I just read George's instructions yesterday. The advice about masking off the surrounding area with a marker pen or toothpaste will definitely help to keep the solder from wetting a bigger area of the metal than is needed.
Kerophile's advice is very good and you can see he knows what he's talking about when he posts a repaired stove over at CCS. I don't personally have the problem he describes with plumbing solder, but it may just be that plumbing solder is generally larger than electronic solder and that I have collected plumbing solder in smaller sizes over time. HD
It is such a tiny hole that is leaking... I'm hoping that I can wire brush it a bit...flux it and hopefully the reheat..once the solder flows again..will fill the pinhole...maybe just a touch of rosin core solder to seal the deal (so to speak ) .. Dan
Dan, if it is such a small leak you may even be able to touch it up with a soldering iron. You can still use the gas flame to pre-heat the area, but not to the melting point of the solder. Less risk of the whole joint running...
