I have searched on this question and tried various solutions. Short story is that after partial disassembly to install a spark ignitor the lantern no longer lights, even with a match. I installed a new generator and that didn't help. I removed the generator and opened the valve to confirm that fuel is coming out. It is. I removed the air/mixing assembly and installed the generator "naked" back on to the valve. I opened the valve a little and held a match to the top of the generator and it just blows the match out. I am not sure what is supposed to happen in this case but I expected a flame. I swapped the new generator out for the old one and the same thing happens. It would seem to be a problem with the generator but I don't how that can be. Any advice for further troubleshooting?
Updates: 1) Pumping the tank up again and opening the valve more than the usual 1/4 turn I do sometimes get a mist from the naked generator. An interesting note is that as I rotate the generator cleaner control there are a few points were the is a short burst of mist but there is no point in the entire rotation where there is a steady mist from the generator. 2) It is a 220K
Sounds like the fuel pickup tube is partially blocked. You may need to remove the valve from the tank to clean the pickup tube out. Possibly blasting air through the valve end may also unblock it. I suggest you have a read through this post, it may give you some ideas: www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/The-Operation-of-the-FuelAir-Tube-and-Instant-Lighting-5808151
Okay, I'll try that. But I thought that since with the generator removed an the valve opened, fuel came out it meant that part was okay. I've read that filling the tank with denatured alcohol and pressurizing it for 24 hours was an accepted cleaning method. Do I really need to remove the valve?
If you want to make sure it works the fuel air tube in the fount needs physically cleaned. make sure there is no debris in the fount to plug the bottom pick up. The method of cleaning with denatured alcohol is hit or miss at best IMO. There is a moving needle in the FA that could be stuck.
Agree, appears to be the fuel/air pickup tube. When you open the valve a 1/4 turn you are actually mixing fuel and air to form a mist of gasoline vapor. When you open the valve all the way the lantern is running on gasoline only and the air part of the fuel/air pickup tube is shut off. I would remove the fuel/air pickup tube from the lantern and take it apart. Good luck
That did the trick. Thanks for the advice. I disassembled everything and shot compressed air through every place that fuel flowed. After starting it back up it was louder than usual but that calmed down after a while.
Oops, spoke too soon. It worked in the shop but at night fall I fired it up and it had the same problem. Tomorrow I will disassemble again and soak it all (including the tank) in denatured alcohol then blow it out again. I will also start with some fresh Coleman Fuel. If there is still a problem at that point I will just get a new lantern.
I have not rinsed the tank at all and that sounds like an obvious oversight on my part. I have read that after cleaning with alcohol I should rinse with CF and discard it. Do I need to rinse with CF more than once?
You can rinse with gasoline or kerosene if it's cheaper than the fuel you will use to burn. The point is: keep rinsing until there is no more rust or other sh!te coming form the tank. Then put your burning fuel in. If you have "sucked up" a bit of grit into the system, you might need to get the air pump out; but rinse and try... Cheers Tony
Another update. I took everything apart, let some denatured alcohol soak in the fount under pressure for a few days and rinsed a few times. Then I added more alcohol and a handful of tiny screws and shook the heck out of the fount. I repeated this a few times and drained the liquid, rust and screws out. I removed the valve that screws into the fount and now, with a flashlight, I can still see that there is a coating of rust with shiny specks where the screws knocked some loose. Is this enough or will that rust come loose and eventually and clog things up again?
Since the 220K has a steel fount it will be safe to soak the insides in citric acid for a few days. Add the BB balls or small screws at the start and shake vigorously a few times a day. This will dissolve and dislodge all rust in the fount down to good metal. Then a good rinse and your clogging issues will be over. Take out any brass parts before you start. Prolonged exposure to citric acid will not be good for them.
The 220K has a brown coating inside the fount applied from the factory as a rust preventative. If the lantern is only passing air on startup, just give it a hard shake. Light it fast to prevent flooding.
That's interesting! For good measure I am also doing this to a 220F. I forget which, but on one there have been a lot of brown flakes coming out and I thought that was rust. Apparently it is the coating. That particular unit is shiny inside. I may do the citric acid bath suggested in another post but, if after a few more rinses, nothing comes out maybe I should leave it alone at this point.
Citric acid may compromise the coating, and it will continue to separate, and block your pickup. Even RUG will do that to some. The F series didn't have the brown coating inside. I have found that each lantern may have its own characteristics. Some may need the valve opened a bit more than 1/4 turn. Some light differently than others, depending on pressure. Experiment.
I had forgotten that the more recent 220s had that coating. Is there a reliable way of getting rid of the flaky brown coating?
