Can anyone comment on how I might repair broken frame posts on a Petromax? I am in the US. I found a piece of steel and threaded it to replace a missing post. Two others are broken at the top where the washers would fit. I presume it is too hot up there to solder. I *might* have a neighbor with a welding machine (not sure, he has everything else :-) ). Perhaps the posts can be tacked in place. Another neighbor makes jewelry and may have silver-solder. I assume it is too hot up there to low temperature solder. britelyt.com sells a post kit - is this a good option? Thanks, Jody
Silver solder would be a good option for strength. The originals were riveted and had a small washer above and below the hole to reduce flexing. The heat from the gas torch will burn away any nickel plating around the joint, though.
Could you thread the ends and put a nut above and below? A propane torch will be OK for silver soldering that part.
I replaced the missing post with a piece of steel I found lying around the house, threaded with nuts. The broken posts are only broken where the stick out above the frame, there is nothing left to thread (too short). Jody
How about another question: How sensitive is the unit's operation to the frame being exactly the right height? I can see how I might be able to attach one of the posts, but it will be a tad shorter than original. Jody
Easy solution is just the post kit from Brytlyte. I used one and it was easy installation. The owner of BL has a video on youtube on how to install . Since they are in Florida like you it'll arrive pronto.
Do you know someone with a metal lathe? It would be relatively simple to drill and thread the inside of the posts so they can be fixed in place with screws.
When I restored an old Anchor Lamp (petromax clone) I used thin metal tent pegs! I cut off the "hook",and threaded both ends with a die. I then used four nuts and washers at each end and cut off any excess thread with a dremel. If you allow plenty of excess length and lots of thread you can trim off the ends nicely. Total cost for me was the grand total of 50p (nuts and wasshers)
I have drilled and tapped 2mm a 200cp where the riveting had broken away at the top. Britelite sounds like an option, or look for some K&S brass rod online or model/hobby shop to make your own.
Petromax cage posts are riveted. Most of the time you can plave the post back and Hammer the flange flat again. I am curious how the frame posts can be broken btw. Pictures ?
>>I am curious how the frame posts can be broken btw. >>Pictures ? Petromax type lanterns are not overly common over here, I bought this one at a flea market with the broken frame with the idea that I could repair it. Basically the washer is popped off the top, and the peened/flared part is partially gone. There is not enough left to put washers on the post. I went ahead and beat the post tops down as is. I have an uneven frame at the top, with perhaps 1/8 inch variation + the replaced post's NUT protruding above the frame. This thread has given me ideas for a better repair IF this fix does not hold up or work properly. Thanks everyone. Jody
I have been thinking about this before and have a thought to see if it is possible to pop-rivet the posts. I do not know if the walls of the tubes are to thin or not. If to thin the expanding rivet will expand the tube so it will bulge. Has anyone tried this? Michael
I have not measured the hole so I do not know but there are 2,4, 3,0, 3,2 and 4,0 mm pop-rivets available. Michael
As Wim says, If you want to reuse the original posts drilling & tapping for 2mm machine screws would probably be your best option. You would need a lathe to center the holes. Alternatively you could use brass rods with the ends thinned down and rivet them with a hammer the old fashioned way.
