I'm working on 2 Coleman 200A's. The 1962 has a stripped check valve. The 1963 was pulsing/flaring badly so I tore it apart and when I removed the air/fuel tube, the rod/spring came out with it (picture). I've read that the rod/spring is supposed to stay in the valve body so I was surprised when it came out. So I took off the air/fuel tube from the 1962 and found the rod/spring stayed inside the valve body. So I have 2 questions: (1) Any ideas how to get out the stripped check valve from the 1962, or is there anyone in the US I could send it to for extraction? (2) Should I be concerned about the rod/spring coming out of the valve from the 1963? Thanks, I'll post pictures of the lanterns when they're burning properly!
The rod and spring are removable. You may want to stretch the spring a little, and polish the rod, as some fuel goes by it during the vapor cycle. When you say the check valve is stripped, how bad is it? Worst case is an easy-out. If it is not too bad I make a small tool that might be able to get it out. Dan MacP
Hello Walleye, The air stem is removable but you unscrewed it right? Dan's tool sounds like your best bet. I have used screw extractor to remove the check valve in a 220B Link to Manual Jeff
That rod and spring always come out of the valve body. I guess the reason you might have read they don't is because often they get stuck in with fuel residues and can be difficult to remove so some tyro decided they don't remove. The complete fuel pick up tube includes the rod and spring as a replacement part so they are part of the fuel tube not part of the valve. ::Neil::
Hi Bill If the check valve is completely stripped then the best option is a screw extractor. if not Dan's tool is the best out there (Dan do you still sell them?) check out this page if you have not seen it before Check Valve Removal
Dan & Mackburner, thanks I gently lengthened the spring and polished the rod and all the valve parts, inside and out. Also, being slightly impatient, I ordered a check valve removal tool on eBay from a guy in Michigan, I think it's similar to yours from what I've read, it has a threaded rod that goes into the valve and locks the tool tabs into the CV slots. It is very well machined and it worked perfectly. It took longer to get the tool out of the box than to get the CV out of the fount. Everyone else thanks for your input too. As promised here's a picture of the 200A 1-62 burning nearly perfect only seconds after lighting (the valve is still just cracked open). And yes that's a 413G 7-64 it's resting on. Am still waiting for a generator for the 200A 10-63 but will post it when burning. If you're looking for something else to do you can help me with a 228F that I just finished cleaning up. I started a new thread for that one... Thanks you guys are great!
You have the "burgundy" version of the 200A. Those are somewhat rare. Yes, HiBrow2's tool is the same as mine. It should be-it's a copy of the one I make. I use 1/2" barstock though. Dan
Hi Dan. Having just dug out my 20 year old Model 226 (which has languished unused in a box in my garage for at least 15 years after moving house!) to discover that it no longer holds pressure (and the CV absolutely refuses to budge with 'firm' torque applied to a regular screwdriver ) I believe I may well be in need of one of your excellent looking removal tools! Please would you let me know how much they cost, as well as what the postage costs and timescales are to the UK. In the meantime I'm going to apply some carb cleaner, as that can only assist. Many thanks John
Nice burgundy! That is one I don't have yet. My birthday lantern is 9/61 and I'm beginning to think that Coleman didn't make a 200A that month. Oh well.
Just as a side note, the spring from an old-school ballpoint pen works well as a replacement for the original spring. I got a 1951 200A going like new once I replaced the spring.
