Howdy, I have a 1965 Coleman, which I recently received. It is barely used, has the wide shade and even the add-on reflector. I replaced the seals in the fill cap, filled with new fuel, and it pressurizes very well. I rotated the wire several times, both directions, and it moves about as freely as normal. Problem is, no fuel comes out at the mantles. I can stroke the pump 20 times, and barely open the fuel cap, and there's lots of pressure. The font is full of fuel. A lit match applied to the mantles produces zilch. Any suggestions? Many thanks for the help,
Hi, It sounds to me like your fuel pickup tube, is clogged or your generator is clogged. I would start with unscrewing and clearing the fuel pickup tube that goes into the tank. from there check the generator and blow out the air mixing tubes. Should be good to go.
This is a common problem with old Coleman Instant-Lite lamps that have not been used for a while. You work your way down. No fuel at the gas tip is where you are at. Next you remove the generator and see if you get fuel from the valve block. If none there then you have to remove the valve block from the tank and clean out the fuel/air tubes. This is not always easy to do because Coleman put those in very tight and with a thread sealer compound. You need to be careful you don't bend the top of the tank when doing this. Hold the valve block in a vice and with both hands grip the tank and turn. You may find this takes a deal of effort. You can sometimes ease the threads by warming the valve block. Half fill the tank with boiling water before inverting and turning the valve out. Then you need to clean out the fuel and air tube assembly which is probably clogged with old fuel residues. ::Neil::
I had to do that on my 220F, I couldnt budge the tank by hand alone so I used a rubber strap wrench and that got it out. Do a google search for 'coleman lanten disassembly' and you will find a series of photos that details every step. While its out, make sure the control rod in the fuel/air pickup moves up and down as you open and close the valve.
Got it down to the valve block, only a bare-spit of fuel coming through. Time to drain and fill with hot water. Thanks for that tip, it's time to do it, and hope for the best. As my good friend the late, great Lynn Cook used to say, "We're gonna do something, even if it's wrong.". I'll report back on how it goes.
Tank and valve body are stuck tight. Put valve block into bench vise, could not turn it out. Filled tank with hot water, drained it, put valve block back into vise, the hot tank won't turn. Opened valve, put 75# compressed air into top of valve, tank would barely pressurize. Put 75# air into fill hole, and the air nozzle would blow back out of the fill hole before anything would come out of the open valve hole. Harumph. I'm reluctant to do the only other thing I can think of, which is to heat the tank where the valve screws in with a torch, heating the tank threads, and probably forcing the valve to break loose. Any other ideas?
The best method to break that connection between the fount and the valve is with a LONG handle strap wrench such as the Ridgid 31365. Ridgid strap wrench This has a 1 3/4" wide strap and an 18" long handle to give the leverage needed. With the valve body clamped in a vise and the strap centered on THE RIM steady even pressure the joint will "POP!". Then it will unscrew with hand pressure. That red sealant they used is Glyptal. A red insulating varnish. It dries rock hard. Be sure to keep the plane of force perpendicular to the valve. That way the chance of distorting the fount will be minimized. I've "popped" dozens of stubborn founts this way. Haven't snapped a valve off yet. Once you get the valve assembly out then cleaning the fuel/air tube will solve your issues. This will also allow you to more thoroghly clean the fount of dirt/rust. That's most likely what is plugging up the works. Bob
Yes that valve has to come out. Nothing else is going to enable resurection of the lamp. Good thing about this is we are not talking about a seriously rare lamp so if you destroy it not the end of the world. Be a shame if you do but then it ain't working now so you have nothing to lose. Big strap wrench is the way although there are a few guys in the US who make a fount clamp which enables you to hold the tank and then get grips on the valve. I can't remember who though and I never bought one because I have never had the need. ::Neil::
An easy first level of repair to unblock the pick-up tube without disassembly is to fill the fount with an inch of denatured alcohol and let it sit for 24-48 hours. This typically will dissolve all of the years of varnish in the fount. If that doesn't work, removing the valve and pick-up is the only remaining option.
Good idea Dan and one I had not thought of. Mind you have you any idea what alcohol costs here? The damn stuff carries the same savage level of tax as Scotch. Wasting a pint to clean out a tank would be an expensive option. ::Neil::
