Hello. The quick light on my 220 doesn't work some times and I have to preheat with a torch. I supposed something would be clogged within the tank buy when I dismantled I found almost nothing could be done. How does the valve work? Is there anything to do? Everything seems to be fine. Juan
Sounds like a sticky fuel air pick up problem. In the quarter turn open position the inner rod of the pick up shows at the end of the tube which almost closes off the fuel feed and allows air from the small hole at the top to mix with a little fuel for starting. As you open the valve the spring pushes the rod up and opens the lower fuel feed. Any old fuel residue in there or blockage of the air feed will stop the instant starter working but a weak spring will also cause problems. Has to be a blockage though because a weak spring reduces fuel flow and the lamp would not work well even when fully open. The fuel air tube should unscrew from the valve block and you can withdraw the inner rod and spring to clean them and also check the upper air hole is clear. ::Neil::
Thank you, Neil. The spring seems to be fine, it is strong enough I guess and the bottom hole remains completely free when the valve is open and the lantern performs very well if I preheat it with a torch. I could see a hole but within the tube there is another one so the hole can't be completely open but if I blow through the tube the aire escapes. How does it work?
There are two tubes. Outer tube collects air from the top hole and that air flows down to the bottom where it collects a small amount of fuel through the restricted bottom hole and then blows the mixture up the inner tube to the valve. It follows that the space between the outer and inner tubes must be clean. It is a simple enough device but it has to be clean and free. From what you say it is the air flow that is not working so there is a restriction between the outer and inner tubes. The normal cure was to replace the fuel/Air tubes. Probably a soak in carb cleaner or something similar will clean it out. ::Neil::
Hi Neill, just had the same question at cleaning my Coleman 519 radiant heater and was waiting for the answer. After a treatment with some citric acid in an ultrasonic bath everything worked well for me although it had gotten completely clogged with some old petrol residues. Beware of trying to disassemble everything: the inner and outer tube are soft-soldered with the upper nut and the lower cap with the small fuel hole. Only the rod which controls the fuel flow can be removed. BR, Martin
Hi Juan, I did once think that if the Fuel/Air pick up tube was swivelling around at the top, then it meant is was broken ! Well, after messing with several (& also advice sought) I found out that it was just the top crimp (just under main valve thread entry, on the F/A) that had come loose. They still work when loose BTW, but whilst trying to fix blocked F/A's, I found that by boiling the tube in some soapy water in a high pan on simmer, did get to help free up most of the syrupy old fuel gunk; plenty enough to then let it 'sit & swish' in some carb cleaner over night, releasing what more there was left. There's another 'going over' ya can give it (if still partially blocked, after all that), & that is to buy an aerosol pressure can, from PC suppliers, ect; these are quite direct & can be aimed up the tube, after taking off the gas jet nipple. These aerosols are very useful indeed, they helped me de gunk the bottom end of a twin mantle Red Sears a year back, that I didn't want to risk unsettling/ separating the main valve from the tank for. I just masked off the nifty paint work, then drip fed lots of very strong de-rusting fluid down the main valves aperture. It seeped down into the F/A system below (& went for its lunch over night, so to speak); the day after, the amount of crap that had spread in to the tank was untrue, the aero can then came into its own again, probably fully clearing out what was left, as that lantern soared instantly after the top end build back was finished ! Good to hear from Neil how the inner & outer tubes work dynamically, I'd thought before that both tubes were always full of fuel; whether the needle was engaged or not, in the nipple jet. The air above the fuel level, when pressurised, is forced down between the outer & inner tubes cavity (top to bottom) towards the nipple jet & needle tip; that air, along with the quarter turn (its hoped for, but not always provided ) of fuel, then shares the same route up into the lanterns valve, allowing a higher heat pre-heat temperature to the generator, so the mantles are able to burn. When that practical science doesn't conform with mine, I just keep blasting the generator a few wafts, up & down with the micro torch; until more than occasionally, the wheel valve has had to be turned way past the quarter turn, where the lighting ignition then at last takes' & splutters to begin a mantle/s burn. Jon .
Yes the space between the two tubes can get clogged with old fuel residue and it is not easy to remove. It normally has to be cleaned out with some sort of "magic mixure" A mild acid and agitation will work although I would probably use POR15 Marine Clean and boil it for a while. I am sure there are many variations of softening/disolving agents that applied with heat will soften and remove the deposits. The quarter turn is what Coleman instructions give us but very often the valve needs more than that. Point is the spring loaded rod needs to be in the lower position to partially block off the lower fuel feed and for that the valve can be near enough a full turn open before the rod starts to retract. ::Neil::
The bottom hole in the fuel/air tube is made so it will still pass a little fuel even when the rod is in the "down" position. If the circumference of that hole is coated with gum or other impurities, the required fuel will not be able to seep past the fuel rod and the instant start will not work. Take out the fuel rod and use something like a toothpick to clean the bottom hole in the fuel/air tube. Rotate the toothpick to remove built up varnish and other deposits. Clean the fuel rod as well. This is usually all that is needed to restore the instant light function. With the fuel rod removed, hold your finger over the bottom hole and blow into the top threaded fitting on the fuel/air pickup tube. If you get air coming out of the top/side hole in the tube, there is no obstruction in the air circuit. That part does not usually get plugged up. Mostly the problem is the bottom hole being unable to pass a small quantity of fuel to supply the instant light.
