Just got an old Petromax HK500 on eBay

Bought an old HK500 in a german military metal box. I don't know how old it is but it says 3158 in the bottom and ChatGPT thinks its from 1958. I really don't know but it seems very old to me. But now a few questions. I don't seem to have the litte "tray" to put alcohol for preheating. Did the old ones come with that and mine is missing? I triad to pump up pressure without fuel (will buy kerosen tomorrow) and it was hard work. Maybe 100 pumps to get to 1 bar. I could hear hissing sounds that changed when I turned the needle valve knob. I suppose it will get easier to get pressure with fuel in it and also the needle valve is not suppose to be air tight but rather kerosen tight right? I also got 5 spare mantles that I suppose is the old radioactive parts. I've heard these are the best but not sold anymore?

 

Welcome aboard!
Some Petromax lanterns do turn up without a meths / alcohol trough, but they can be fitted.
My advice is not to fire up your lantern until it has been properly serviced, because the seals and the pips will have hardened and there may be other problems too.
The knob just controls the pricker rod, it is not a shut off valve.
I prefer the older mantles.
The link below shows relevant information and there is a choice of languages, just click on tab of your choice on the first page.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0828/7613/7745/files/Gebrauchsanleitung_HK500.pdf?v=1696413678

 

Welcome to the forum @Malmen
HK500 is only a general reference to the Petromax model you had acquired. It could be any model with the advertised 500HK output. The most common ones for the military version are usually the 'Bundeswehr' or the model 829B.
A picture or two could be helpful here for others to identify the specific one you have.
The military version would likely have a straight vaporiser instead of the looped type. It was originally intended to operate on gasoline (benzin) fuel.

 

Also, any AI might tell you a different answer at different times depending on how you ask or put up your question. I'm not sure about ChatGPT but if it was literally stamped '3158', then it was probably not older than the 1960s. Those from earlier times were hand-scratched instead of stamped.
Lanterns with the 'rapid' preheater torch don't usually come with the spirit dish.

 

@Malmen
Also from my side a warm welcome to the English forum.

The number 3158 immediately teils me that this Petromax was made in Portugal.
The number 3158 clearly means to me 31st week 1985 .
If it were from 31st week 1958 then it would look like this 7/8 or 8/8 tank scatching .
Your Petromax is not from 1958.Back then,there were no embossed numbers.They first appeared in 1961.

If it was from week 31 of 1968 then it should be 3181 or 3182 or 3183 or 3184 or 3185

 

Pics of it. Ok so its from 85. Perhaps its not the original lantern for this box? I got some kerosene now, do I dare to light it? Or should I get the preheating tray first for a more gentle start? Or could I improvise with something? I'd like to see some light

And thanks for the manual!

 

Good advice from @JEFF JOHNSON about sevicing the lamp first.
If you are unfamiliar with Petromax lanterns, this document may help https://classicpressurelamps.com/attachments/px-rest-pdf.57117/

 

Wow! thanks, I will check this info before using it.

 

Why is a lantern that is made in Portugal stamped with "Made in Germany" on the tank and also on the top vent, together with "Bund ZB"? It aslo says original Germany on the manomenter and pump handle. It also says "REGD" what ever that means. On the riveted type plate it says "829/500CP SUPER Petromax Rapid"

 

@Malmen

Then you misread the number.
I would like to see a photo of the4-digit number, please.

 

Other than the box, it does not appear specifically military. The lantern in the picture itself appears to me like a regular Petromax 829, not the 829B. If it comes with a looped vaporizer, then it should work like the usual kerosene-fueled Petromax. A close-up photo of the vaporizer would confirm that. If it isn't meant for gasoline/benzin like some military lanterns, it would be advisable to avoid fueling it with such a highly volatile one. (Although I have personally did so...deliberately . Well, it does work perfectly with petrol, provided every seal and all features are flawless. Otherwise, things might go catastrophically wrong and lead to some great regrets).
The pricker control wheel and pump knob are still blue in colour, which indicate more recent manufacture. Most earlier ones from the 1950s or 60s would have turned brown from exposure to light and atmosphere. The blue colouring from the originals would darken in such a way. These are not to be mistaken from the currently produced ones from China, which, are somewhat a slight bit brighter blue and would not darken like the originals to brown, no matter how long they've been exposed.
REGD means 'Registered'.

The first thing you should be checking once you finished going through the instructions and guides is to ensure it isn't leaking. You could oil up the leather pump cup/diaphragm and test whether you can pressurise the fount with the pump. Test it both with and without fuel. You need not be in a hurry to light it up with the mantle. The last thing you'd want is having to strip it down again due to a nuisance leak somewhere during showtime .

 

This is a German Petromax for Civil defense.ZB = Ziviler Bevölkerungsschutz .
They always had a shiny nickel plating .They were never used and stored in metal cases,which is why the blue color is so well preserved. @Malmen probably read 3158 instead of 3153 .
3153 = week 31 ,year 1965, Wednesday

 

Thank you so much for all the info! Here are some more pics. I remembered the numbers all wrong! It is 3851!

 

That's certainly original German-made. Stamped date codes mean 1960s and later. Looped vaporizer would suggest kero operation. Once you've removed it from the box for use, the blue plastic parts would eventually darken deeper towards brown. It won't be anything different from a regular 829, 500cp except for the additional 'BUND ZB' stamping on the top cap.
You might not necessarily need the spirit dish for gentle start. Just ensure that the rapid preheater torch isn't leaking anywhere and working as it should first if you decide to light it without the alcohol slow start. You can always supplement it with a dish later.

 

@Malmen

You've truly acquired a fantastic Petromax Rapid with its original storage box
I congratulate you and wish you continued success .

 

Thank you! Do you really need to disassemble everything (and mess up the sealings) if you pressure test it and see that it is holding pressure? My idea is to fill it with kerosene, pump it up to 2 bars and then leave it for some time to observe the pressure drop. Then test run the rapid heater without the mantle to see that the preheater works ok, and then install the mantle and run it. Or just get all the gaskets and stuff and rebuild it?

 

3851 =
Week 38
Year 5 in 60ties = 1965
Day 1 of workweek= monday

 

You need not disasemble the entire unit if there isn't any apparent problem with it of course.
Just ensure the internals are clean enough to start with. Pressure test it as to see if it'd do for the rest.
For something that's more than half a century old, I'd not be surprised to find at least some rubber gaskets and pips somewhat less supple than they should ideally be.

 

That'd be a sensible thing to do. Just ensure you always have some spare gaskets and mantles beforehand to begin any fettling works that's part-and-parcel of such hobbies.
I'm not sure if the lantern has actually been used before this. You should be able to tell upon closer inspection.

 

Update: I have now filled the lantern with kerosene and pressure tested it. Took the top part off completely. It holds 2 bar and no air leaks what I can find with leak spray. A small amount of kerosene leakage from the top of the carburator (where the needle is) but it is a very slow leak. I also tried the rapid preheater and that works fine but as soon as the burner starts to heat the carburator it starts to squirt some kerosene that burns in a pretty controlled manner. I suppose I want to get that to stop before trying to light the lantern. What parts do I need to check?

 

You need to install a new valve seal # 193 at the very bottom of the carburetor.

 

Thank you! I just ordered some parts from Petromax.de but this seal is of course the only one you can't order! I got the lead seals and a leather seal for the pump and a alcohol tray and some other things. Is there anyone here that I can buy this #193 part from? Or can I make my own seal with an o-ring or something? I have lots of o-rings in small sizes.

 

Original Petromax Ersatzteile für Ihre Starklichtlampe Spares

 

During startup, either with spirit or the rapid preheater, there should not be any fuel inside the vaporiser/carburrettor. Otherwise, the heating would cause semi-vaporised fuel to spew out from the jet/nozzle and burn with yellow flames. The protruding needle won't shut off the fuel. It is not meant for shut off.
The footvalve or fuel pickup tube assembly in the lower part of the vaporizer located inside the fount is obviously leaky.
It is not surprising to find at least a seal or two that do not function properly for something that was made 65 years ago. Part 193 can be purchased as it is available from the above site. Or you could fashion out the pip part from fuel-resistant Viton sheet or cork. There is a central protrusion of metal/brass serving to protect the rubber from direct contact with the foot valve actuation rod. It makes the pip(homemade) replacement slightly more difficult and fiddly. You'd need to make a centre hole on the punched-out rubber or cork pip so that it could be fitted into the part 193's cup.

Nevertheless, you'd still need to remove the vaporiser in order to access the leaky footvalve for inspection. Sometimes the cup might just be partially stuck, misaligned and not moving freely inside part 195. Or it could be due to the spring(part 194) not providing sufficient compressive force to enable sealing. I've found a lot of dirt and corrosion on many used and pre-own units. These things need to be thoroughly cleaned for the 'mechanisms' to function properly.
There are many alternative things that can be done to resolve the leak if you don't have the exact spare parts.
Example, : I've had to replace the springs with slightly stronger compressive force to compensate for sealing discrepancies of rubber materials that are a little age-hardened...etc and lots more.
I've had to make most of any part I need during my most active fettling years, including crucial ones like the entire vaporiser and cleaning needle assemblies. That was partly because I could hardly find anything available in my location and I can't do mail orders for anything.
But I guess it'd be a lot easier for you to purchase the spares in your location.
Quite a number of us here have plenty of experience with the Petromax lanterns or its clones. Some even grew up operating and servicing them during their chilhood days. Most would gladly guide you through any obstacles you face during fettling and providing any info you might need.

 

Good info, thanks! I will take it apart and have a look at the valve. I have ordered parts from Petromax and from Varuste. None of them had the 193 seal as a spare but had it in a kit with a lot of parts I already have. Did the misstake to order parts separately instead of the kit. I got a chrome lamp shade from Varuste on sale for 39 euro. Hope it doesn't look to odd on an old lamp.

 

Tried to replace the lead seal for the carburetor but it is hard to remove the old one. It has bonded with the tank. Is there a trick for this?

 

...and another thing I noticed. The new lead seals (2 pack) is 14 mm outer and 8 mm inner. Should be 10 mm inner so it will be a very tight fit, if it will fit. Petromax also have a 12mm/8mm but what I got is some kind of hybrid between these.

 

With care, the old, deformed lead seal can be removed with a pick and some determination.
Usually, I'd just leave them in if they're too difficult. They've usually been compressed very thin and wouldn't make much difference when you put on a new seal.
The dimensionally incorrect new seals can easily be touched-up and finished to the right size with a reamer, a round file or even a drill bit.

 

Thank you! I got my lantern working! But once warmed up it starts to pulsating the light. If I slightly restricts fuel with the knob I get more stable output. Maybe some calibration is needed? There is a screw in the U-bend that adjusts the mixture. Maybe that needs tweeking? Other than the pulsating light, the sound is pretty even and the light output is white and strong.

 

Try to pressure it to slightly above 2 bar or 2kgf/cm² and observe how does it pulse.
If it is really pulsing, then the 'rhythm' should be consistent, not just random flickering.

Some flickering is normal for most pressure lamps.

For the pulsing problem, it is due to excessive fuel vaporizing and not all can be discharged through the jet or gas tip orifice on time. Some being recirculated or cycled back into the fount. Sometimes it is explained by means of the Leidenfrost effect.
Typically, the temperature of the fuel inside the fount will increase to uncomfortably high levels after a while with lantern in operation.
Some of us remedied this problem by stuffing or wrapping around the cleaning needle rod inside the vaporizer with some bronze wool.
But you need to first ascertain if it is the typical pulsing or something else before anything.