Could someone supply the model number, please? This one isn't stamped with a logo or date so I'm presuming it's prior to 1924. The bodger seems to have been at the generator on this one:- I've a couple of the correct generators in their packaging, but I imagine they're rare now, given that so many of these are fitted with a later generator. So what's to do? - use up my stock of the original generators or replace with the later one - R55, is it..?
David...It is an L327. What is the wording on the ventilator? This looks like it is probably 1921-22. Straighten that Q99 and use it if it is not all plugged up Glenn
On one side of the hood it says, "\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Coleman ///////////" - the angled lines get progressively smaller moving away from the word. On the other side it says, "THE Coleman Lamp Company WICHITA, KANSAS, U.S.A." The word 'THE' has a horizontal line above it as well as the underscore. I forgot to mention that there's a large, raised letter 'H' in the middle of the shoulder of the burner. I've already straightened the generator which does 'pass gas' and temporarily fitted the gas tip to my 252A in an attempt to get that running... Thanks for the model number, but looking at Neil's Pressure Lamp Catalogue, is it not an LQ327? - a "re-named LQ; Quick-Lite; 1921-31 w/ no pump. Nickel plated hood. 3 pint fount. First 'Coleman Quick-Lite' in perforations in collar."
Hi David: GasPrescue is on the money. Your lantern is actually very easy to date accurately. It is theoretically a 1922. All correct pre mid twenties components, no fount stamping(started in 23',embossed top ventilator(started in 22',deeper bottom plate well and taller version of plate insert. You have a 1922 "LQ"327? The difference between the QL,L, and LQ is fuzzy and overlaps,there could be argument between L and LQ. I am going with LQ because of the precise date of your lantern and company advertising I have seen, and yes I have also seen them labeled L in the ads. So take your pick. As GP said above, straighten the Q99 and use it. If it is clogged PM me and I will tell you how to easily clear it. Or I can post it somewhere on this site, if requested. I have posted it numerous times on CCS. Mike...
Yeh if you can get the internals out just replace them with a zippo wick after thoroughly cleaning the inside of the gen and your ready to go. you rescue other Q99s this way too.
Hello David, Neil has a tried and trusted method for restoring Q99 generators to working order, perhaps it would be wise to ask him about it.
Thanks, all... Bizarrely, this Q99 is fine - it's straightened up no bother and the jet is clear. It's the Q99 on the Quicklite I posted yesterday that's giving bother with a choked jet. I've nothing small enough that will pass through and clear it. If I fitted it into another generator of some sort that was fitted with a pricker mechanism - would that do the trick..?
Yes David....pull the tip, hold with needle nose and heat it with a torch, then run the needle of a 200 lantern generator (if you have) or install it on the R-55 and clean it. Re-assemble and Voila.....good for another 5 gallons or so Glenn
Hello David, there is a bit more to a Q99's operation than having a clear jet. The Q99 and many other generators are filled with packing, and over the years that becomes clogged and then the fuel and air mix will not flow properly.
Hi all: Having repaired countless of these Q99's successfully for over 30+ years I most highly recommend against removing asbestos string from the Q99 or inserting wire or anything into it in an attempt to clean it out. This is not necessary and is in my opinion counter productive. The string is inserted before the 99 is bent into it's characteristic loop and there for it is most difficult to remove and replace the proper asbestos string in it's correct thickness, density and length. The generator can be cleaned with a much easier less time consuming method without sacrificing efficiency, function or possible irrevocable damage. Mike... P.S I will post this cleaning method on the fettelers form so it will be easier to find. The reason for buildup is use of improper fuel which causes carbon that can not fully removed by vinegar or carburetor cleaner etc.. Be careful with compressed air as it will pack the string tight if turned up too high. Mike..
Yes Jeff....David, if the gen tube itself is plugged it is a different story and solution. I have had good luck taking the tip off and soaking the gen and tip in hot white vinegar. you can let it sit all night. Blow it thru with compressed air then squirt some carburator cleaner in and replace tip ...let it sit for a couple hours the remove the tip and blow more compressed air thru. After this step, lay the gen with out tip, on the electric burner of stove or hot plate(low-med) ..this to "dry out" for an hour then blow once again thru with compressed air and install cleaned tip....I have about 90% success rate doing this Glenn
Yes the guys are right here. You can often restore a plugged generator without major surgery. Easy enough to clean them out. You just anneal the brass, straighten the tube and drill it out. The big problem is in reshaping which means annealing again and rolling the shape back around a jig. Q99 means a broom handle but some others are tricky. Then the real big trouble is re packing. Ge that wrong and it won't work either because it is too tight and won't pass fuel or too loose and the jet clogs because the filter action is not good. Best stuff is asbestos and easy for me because I have plenty. Just roll a string of the right thickness and wrap a small square of fine brass mesh around the end to hold it secure in the lower part of the gen and it can work. With a Coleman more trouble than it is worth when you can just shove an R55 in. With some others where there are no easy alternatives I have had to do this but success is not a given and it is debatable if it is even worth trying ::Neil::
Hi all/Neil: I and others have experimented with straightening Q99's and replacing the asbestos string successfully years ago but found the procedure problematic and potentially dangerous. If the annealing process Neil mentioned is not done precisely it may and has led to future stress cracking of the generator tube that almost burned a collectors house down many years ago. These generators are subjected to constant heating and cooling as well as internal pressure. Additional bending can add more stress to the tubing. This method can be done but requires skill and knowledge of metallurgy. Most of all it is unnecessary as the 99 can be returned to as new function without messing with it's internals.( See one method on the "Fettling Forum" portion of this site.) I prefer the Q99 over the R55 for lamps/lanterns that it is proper for.(Love the look of the loop) In my opinion they give better and more reliable light, no pricker to become stuck or clean-out lever assembly to leak or replace. Also they are easier to preheat. Mike...
I can't argue with that. I did metalurgy in college many years ago as one of the subjects for my ONC and some of it stuck. I tend to get a bit hazy now on the detail but I sort of know where to look for help and reminders. So I think I know what I am doing but even so I have a few times started interesting and exciting flare ups and outright fires and demonstrated that a little knowledge can be dangerous. So that sort of fettling I will only do now as a last resort on a generator that cannot be replaced. As for Q99s I have a dozen repros here that just want packing to be used and I guess they will outlast me. ::Neil::
Hi Neil: Great work on making repros. On your side of the pond that endeavor is probably necessary as I am sure new or used Q99's are most likely quite scarce. Used 99's are still somewhat easy to find over here, so it is eaiser to clean easily available used Q99's then repro them. The way we made repros years ago was using brass tubing a automotive brake tubing flaring tool and jewelers threading taps and and brake tubing bending tool with asbestos string (now hard to find in the U.S.). We never reproduced the nipple as they were readily available and not easy to make. The nuts were purchased at the auto parts store. They worked well but I felt that originals or cleaned originals were a bit better. Please post a picture of your repro in action. Mike...
Not made by me. I just provided the gas tips which were bought for me from Wichita. I had them here because I funded the trial test run of a dozen. I then had serious difficulty finding a modern available packing so without that we could not do a commercial run and the project was dropped and I was left with a dozen empty Q99s. I think I may have used one but without any packing. It did run for a while but wants pricking too often to be any use. Since then I have not needed one so I have not packed any. I have a good supply of asbestos string though so it should not be a problem. However I can't show you a working one because I have no idea what lamp I used it on and with 750 plus to hunt through it could take a while to find. Cold out there too and I don't do cold. If I remember I will take one with me if we manage to get to the Tulsa Convention in June. ::Neil::
