@Hanzo @Carlsson @Tony Press @phaedrus42 @Mackburner @jeffjohnson and others....you pushed me over the edge!!
I'm glad we did! And I bet you are too. And Phil is right; next step, table lamps. There's no turning back now.
I love the simplicity of it and the looks too!! I Will get repo chimmney...as Carlsson said..it dosent look right with the glass. The kicker is I only paid 48 dollars including shipping!! I know an antique mall that has coleman table lamps!!!!!
1923 QL 327. They look good, and run just as well in the rough. This one I am using Non-Ethanol gasoline to see how long a Q77 straight gen will last before plugging. 13 fills, and counting. I have cleaned the tip at each fill.
I have used many of the R-55 and Q-99s. I have found that the torch will break loose carbon and plug the tip. I use a BBQ lighter as its more for how the early gens were designed IMO. The R-55 is ok, but they surge and flicker more than the good old Q series. Plus the 55 seems louder to me. I guess I am a traditionalist? lol. The R-55 came out years after the Q series, so were really not original to the Quicklites. Can you sense my bias? lol. The R-55 is certainly easier to use tho. Especially if its dark and your tip plugs on start.
I cleaned it up and fitted cheap anchor shade !!works perfect. Base was rusty so I painted it with zinc industrial paint...trying to keep it as close to original.
Added Fred Kuntz globe and q99 generator. Done .He does nice work like everyone says!! On to next project.!!
Looks excellent. Only thing I would've done differently is to soak the frame assembly in Evaporust, no need to paint it . I've done it and the Evap really works , just a 24 hour soak does the trick. Steel wool afterwards and then just oiling the metal.
@Hanzo . I agree..I picked up an air o lantern 1919 with rusty cage I'm working on and I like the patina after I soaked it in vinegar..the zinc paint makes it look .....well... eh... painted. What do you oil it with?
I use Ballistol Multi purpose only because its in the house . Its kind pricey per can though. I am sure there are cheaper alternatives, maybe WD40 might work? Also tried Rust-oleum Rust Inhibitor , picked it for 4 dollars from Home Depot. Its a very oily substance. I have sprayed it on a couple of frames after they soak to try to prevent flash rust . Stops Rust® Rust Inhibitor Product Page
I have tried to seal cleaned frames with high heat clear engine enamel. It seems better than the bare oiled surface, but if the acid used to clean has been well neutralized oil is good too. IMO. Good light you have.
