A piece of advice needed

@eiremax
Thanks a bundle!

Right now I am waiting for mantels and a couple of new washers. Will keep you posted.

 

Make sure the paddle is OK and the holding screw doesn't dent your gas pipe.
The paddle gives the lantern its noise, or at least doesn't make it less noisy.
The dent influences the air stream.

 

@WimVe
Thank you - was trying to figure out the function of this doohickey. Should the padle be set to min. influence or max. or? for starters?

 

At start-up the position of the paddle does not really matter much. Do the adjustment with the hood on.
When the lamp is lit and burning, you can adjust it out up to 360 degrees from the full in position and leave it at the position where you get the brightest and whitest light. I've seen paddles that are flat and some that are wedge-shaped. If flat, up to 180 degrees will suffice.

Note: Your screwdriver tip will get hot enough to burn things so be careful where you put it down after.

 

If the thread seems stiff, go easy. On one of my Anchor Pmax clones (admittedly, not the same build quality at all!) I attempted to adjust the paddle but the thread was so tightly corroded in place I ended up mangling the slot and I didn't use that much force! It still burns bright white so I'm not overly bothered but its a shame nevertheless.

 

@phaedrus42 and @ColinG
Thanks for your good advice!

 

HOUSTON - we have lift off!

Filled it with Kero. Placed a 300-400 doublelocked mantel and lit it.
Thanks to all the the great advice in here, I knew how to burn in the mantel, prior to starting it.
Discovered that the lead gasket on NRV needed changing. Had one from a Primus stove which fitted nicely.
Have tweaked the “paddle” in top tube to middle position. Otherwise it’ll burn to bright/White.
It has been running nice and steady for the last 30 min.
Now and then it’ll vagaely sound as a bit of a pulse. Nothing disturbing I guess.
Wife will test it in her little greenhouse tonight. Depending on the outcome, I might mount a 250 jet, needle and mantle.
(It is brighter than shown on the pics)
Thx for all your advice!

 

Looking very good, and I like your wife's set up - a proper little home from home with plants and flowers.

 

Nice to see it up and running. For a small bit of work and a few €€ you have a fine lantern that will do you for years!

 

Congratulations to Your well performed purchase. Also happy that Your wife likes the lantern in the greenhouse.

 

@Harder Sorensen

I'm glad you were able to come up with a suitable solution to your lighting problem.

Mike

 

@Harder Sorensen
the large Petromaxes (350+500cp) might not work properly with a 250cp jet.
Some additional modifications might be needed to get it running reliably.
E.g. burner modifcation, air gap smaller, etc.

So better keep it with 350 cp jet.
You might add a stranded copper wire spiral in the vapourizer, to avoid "Leidenfrost", lantern blinking.
And then you can probably run the lanter with much less pressure and light output. Even on kerosene.

With gasoline proof seals, you can dim even more. Yet this is a matter of being comfortable with Petromax running on gasoline. And of course odour. Kero smells better. :-)

 

Thanks for all the kind remarks and good advice!

I personally really like this lantern. I did adjust the gap to 250 according to the Petromax “key” and mounted a smaller mantel too.
Wife is not completely happy with what she refers to as noise - which to me having just fettled a more than a 100 years old Svea 11 stove with a roarer - is just a low hiss ;-)

@bp4willi
Could you describe that copper thread a bit more?
Cheers

 

I run my 829B on a 250hk jet with absolutely no problems. Strong light with very little noise.

 

@Harder Sorensen
Strip the stranded copper wire e.g. from a loadspeaker cable. 1,5 mm2 will be ok.
You'll need about 25-30 cm length. Wind it along the metal shaft of a screwdriver. Outer diameter of this copper spiral should be same as inner diameter of the vaporizer.
Unmount upper part of vaporizer. Keep needle rod in place. Put copper wire spiral over it. Spiral should stretch from excenter of shutoff valve, up to the lower end of the vaporizer ring. Copper spiral should touch the inner surface of the vaporizer for good temperature conduction.
Works much better than brass gaze.
Better heat dissipation. Forces gas in the vaporizer to spiral along inner lining.
No problems any more with blinking, Leidenfrost.
Can operate Petromax with much less pressure. Down to less than 0,5 bar.
(normal pressure is 2 bar)
Much reduced noise/hiss.
Lantern dimmable.

 

@bp4willi
Thanks a lot - sounds like something I could give a try.
Would you happen to have a picture of a lantern wounted with this?

 

@Harder Sorensen, @bp4willi,
Yep, it does work, but the copper spiral could at times be tricky to insert into the upper vaporizer(Preston looped, I presumed).
I've had some instances where the additional copper braiding/spiral within the vaporizer was wound so tightly that it restricted the eccentric 'free-play' of the pricker rod, prevented the self-centering of the pricker needle towards the nozzle orifice and ended up with a bent needle. Some adjustments were necessary to correct that in order to get the intended results.

 

@Harder Sorensen
Don't have picture of it from assembly.
Later not visible, as inside the vaporizer.
Don't wind too tight, or stretch before insert. Copper shouldn't fill the inner gap completely. RAs is to extend inner surface of vaporizer for even heat dissipation.

Are you from Sweden?

 

@bp4willi and @MYN

I have now tried the copper wire “trick” and it actually works!
Just to be sure - when the spiral starts a the bottom of the lower part of the vaporizer (at the valve) - how far up should it go?
1: To the lower part of the vaporizer loop, or
2: all the way through the upper part of vaporiser until where the jet seats or
3: ?

@bp4willi
All Danish

 

It won't go all the way up to the jet. The tube bore is restricted between the two loop connections and will only just pass the needle rod. Actually brass wire would be better than copper but either way a coil from valve fitter to just below the loop will do the job fine. ::Neil::

 

@Mackburner
Thanks Neil

 

No 1: Is correct.

 

@Harder Sorensen,
As bp4willi said.
But you could at times get it slightly beyond the lower part of the vaporizer loop just before the restriction, where it won't pass through. But that doesn't make much difference and might even hinder the pricker rod from moving smoothly up and down if the coil is too tight and insufficient clearance/allowance. You wouldn't want this.

 

Actually I have a number of lamps I'd like to add coiled copper vaporising wire to, could some kind soul link the description... I know it's on here somewhere but I couldn't find it.

 

I don't know where the link is as I did not originate that. Perhaps bp4willi or MartinK might know.
But the coiled wire(brass) was actually incorporated in the design of a number of pressure lanterns(i.e. Coleman 237, etc), not a retrofit as what we've discussed here.
In this post, we were talking about a feature that we added in certain vaporizers such as those found in Petromax, Butterfly or similar lanterns to stop or reduce incidences of pulsating.
Believed to be caused by the dreaded so-called 'Leidenfrost effect'. This includes stuffing in some brass gauze or other equivalents. In addition, it also serves as some sort of restriction in the fuel line to reduce surges.
You've probably heard about all these before.

 

@ColinG
Scroll up in this thread,
to
A piece of advice needed

there is the description.
Have no photo of this.

 

Yeah I know but some time ago there was a thread with photos I think. I've definitely a visual learner!