Hi all hope your all keeping well . I've been having some issues with my 1944 AGM milspec ,when I turn it of I'm still getting some fuel dripping . When I last used it it was working fine ,when I had finished with it I turned it out and then let the pressure out after it had cooled ,the following morning I had fuel dripping from the genny . I have striped it down and found some very fine score marked on the pointed end of the valve stem. When reassembled and pressure checked I could hear the air escaping . I'm assuming that part is going to need to changed but what about the valve body,do you think that'll be scored aswell ? Thanks and keep smiling , marten
I think not. Just rectify the valve and that should be enough. Personally, I don't leave any of my lamps under pressure.
Hi , do you think it is possible to use some fine rubbing paper on the valve stem or would alter the stem too much ? I don't leave my lamps under pressure either ,my shed is brick built with a metal roof and when the sun gets it it warms up and causes the internal pressure if the lamps to increase ,this is how I know it was leaking . Marten
When I’m not using my lanterns I release the founts’ pressure and leave the associated fillet cap slightly loose to relieve any pressure buildup caused by ambient heat. For example, the daytime heat in my shed etc. Cheers Pete
You can try repointing the valve stem yourself. Get a smooth, flat surface such as a piece of window glass or a bit of marble countertop that is at least 5"x7". Use some spray adhesive and glue a 1/4 sheet of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to it. Strip the stem of all the extras like the packing. Holding the stem so the angle of the end is flat against the sand paper you can polish out the groove in the tip. The tricky bit is you MUST rotate the stem as you move it against the paper. If you just stroke the stem over the paper, then turn it and stoke it again you will absolutely, guaranteed make flat spots on the tip and it will be worse than before. You have to spin the stem between your thumb and fingers as you move it against the paper. After the first couple strokes the surface of the tip will be dull but the groove will still be bright and very easy to see. I use this method to clean up Coleman air stems that have a slight groove. I've done bunches but still mess up about 1 in 10. The other way is to find someone with a lathe and have them recut the tip. It's a simple 30 degree point and only takes a second to fix on a lathe. That's how I handle deeper grooves. Don't worry about the fact that it will slightly shorten the stem, it's not enough to matter and the important bit of the stem is the tip.
@AussiePete Yes I leave the filler cap cracked on my paraffin/ keto lamps but in the gas powered ones I leave the filler cap pinched up, this is first time I've had one leak like this @Reese Williams Thanks for the info about this . I was thinking about using my whet stone sharpening kit for my knives ,I believe the lanksy is set at 20° but it has a little adjustment in the frame
You don't want to use a stone on brass, it will quickly clog and ruin the stone. Any soft metal will ruin a stone. Also the angle is 30 degrees not 20. Use wet/dry sandpaper on a flat backer. Also with the Lansky you can't rotate the stem as you move it against the stone unless you are using a different model from what i have. You have to move the stem not the abrasive so you can rotate the stem as it moves against the abrasive. If you don't you will end up with facets on the tip of the stem and it will leak worse than before.
