A while back I started on an X246A and made big mistake by trying to disassemble what appeared to be a collar screwed to the top of the tank. It was, in fact a ring fixed to the draw-pipe which was in turn actually screwed into a hidden threaded internal collar. This collar is (was) soldered to the INSIDE of the tank. The heat I applied to enable the two to come apart simply melted the solder holding the collar on the inside. There is now no way of either gripping the inner collar to enable the pipe to be removed OR to be able to re-tighten everything back up again. I am really gutted because the lantern is in great condition otherwise. Is there a way to re-solder (or even grip) the inner collar? Ian
I'm a bit confused as to which part you were trying to remove.... There is a collar that screws in, but it should never be screwed down tight in the tank. Sometimes quite incorrectly it is and it's near impossible to get out without damaging it.. Personally I just put up the control cock ending up in awkward positions rather than trying to remove it. If I were to do so then I would be inclined to just sacrifice the collar rather than apply heat. The parts shown in this picture are the only bits that should unscrew...
Inside the tank is a feed tube which draws the fuel up from the lower part of the tank. This feed tube housing is actually part of the outer collar (not separate). Both screw into an inner collar originally soldered onto the inside of the tank. It's this solder which has been disrupted (by me heating it) thereby allowing the inner collar to spin freely. See the photos - they explain more clearly I hope.
Ian . Only way is to resolder carefully from outside . You might have to fill font with water up to top of pick up tube so you dont melt the solder joint there . Bob .
I would first wash /clean and soak inside with vinegar 1/3 solution, secure frame studs from outside with washers and nuts use a spare control cock and vaporizer to hold socket from falling in while soldering and finish with heating joint while tank is inverted. :: Graham
I was thinking of inverting the tank as it is, the GENTLY heating the outer again and (as I can just see the inner collar) use one of those long thin solver sticks to 'flow the solder around the ring again. I will take on board the nuts/washers to secure the frame studs to stop them moving if the solder there softens. Will also tape wet cloth against them and the filler opening to avoid overheating. Also I will use a spare control valve/vaporiser stem to hold the collar against the inner wall. Just needed some mental and intestinal fortitude to have a go! This ain't going to beat me.
The cleaner the surface the better solder will flow I have some low temp silver solder which is workable with an iron and is in wire form, or not as high strength is resin core solder available in 3mm rolls
To prevent other solderrings from loosen, you can dip the tank into Water so there is a air-pocket around only the place you will solder, then you have free hands soldering with no worries. Claus C
G,,day . I do like the internal photos . did you take them with a dedicated inspection camera , or an attachment to an SLR body ??? they are excellent !!!! cheers, kerry
If you get plenty of liquid flux around the area and heat you should be able to get the solder to "reflow" and form a good joint... As others have said you need to get the area as clean as possible first. It may be worth trying marine clean for that and then thoroughly drying before applying the flux. With a small flame you should just be able to heat the collar without heating the surrounding area too much. One issue you may find is that you need to do this with the tank inverted and a lot of torches don't like working upside down! I have in the past used a hot air gun with a small nozzle fitted for similar soldering jobs.
Thanks for all the tips. Claus, as I have to work on the tank in an inverted position, submersion is not an option as the water will come in around the work area. Tony, you are spot on, wet rags will be the method I think. Kerry, I just used my iphone... the light (flash) is immediately adjacent to the lens so it lit the inside reasonably well. Gneiss, I will do my best to clean the surrounding area but access is extremely limited obviously. The inner collar just needs to be immobilised. Once that's done I can re-tighten the top collar and the problem should be solved.
That's where Marine clean comes in. You just pour it in and agitate the tank occasionally. You'll be amazed what comes out even from a tank you may think is clean!
