Hasag 65 wall lamp

My mill is a chinese junk, it works fine and is fairly stable. I have a rotary table and various other tools for it. Unfortunately, I bougt a load of chinese cutters with it and they are junk!
I am simply not very good at using it!

Jim.

 

I have a couple more lamps waiting for me in Egypt, I'll collect a couple in February when I go (I am an Egyptologist)

Jim.

 

Don't forget the pics then Jim

 

I have Made pieces of copper to make the part missing off one end of the tray and soldered them on with silver solder. There were two problems: the pieces of copper tend to move when I solder them and the melting temperature of brass is very close to that of silver solder! I burned several holes in the good part but I was able to fill them in with the solder. Then I filed off the excess solder to make it look better and it sprung leaks! After several tries I got it alcohol-proof and it now holds the alcohol but it looks terrible because the copper pieces have moved, though it is good enough. I stopped filing the excess solder off and I shall leave it as it is. It is better to have it working than looking beautiful!
THERE WILL BE NO PHOTOS!Sorry!

Jim.

 

I might buy a billet of brass and try to mill the tray out, I'll let you iof it works!
Please put your address in the envelope with the knob and I'll send you the postage.


Jim.

 

What exactly is a billet of brass?

I know I could use a thing called google but that kind of defeats the purpose of a discussion forum.

 

Originally Billets were casting blocks of a certain square section size and length, sometimes termed 'Ingots'.
In recent years, and In machine shops in particular 'Billets' can refer to 'Stock' (off the shelf size) bar that's slightly oversize in Length/breadth/height ready to be machined down to the finished component size. I guess they could loosely be termed 'Blanks'
Years ago an engine casing would have to of been cast because of its complex shape and multiple radii , now a CNC milling machine can replicate such shapes from solid bar stock , often referred to now as being ' machined from Billet'

 

Thanks for that.

I'm guessing cheaper CNC milling machines would come with software that would do basic milling but more complex software would be very expensive?

 

Yeah, a decent 2015 software package such as 'Solidworks 2015' for such (industrial)machines I believe is around £9000 to buy initially, then you have to pay an annual 'Licence' ( the machine won't run without it) which is another £2/3000 a year.
On the other hand, a standard School/College software package for a lesser machine would probably be under £1000 all in.

 

Or a Torrent copy of Autocad Inventor or InventorLT for free

All the .stl or machine files you need

Alec.

 

Ray,

Wow, I had no idea they were that expensive.

I was thinking of looking into a small CNC mill. Because of the type of lamps I find myself collecting now they are often missing bits that could easily be replaced if you had a mill and - were good enough to use it. I doubt this old dog could learn such tricks at this stage of the game.


It's doubly annoying for me as there is no one I can find on the island I can turn to to whip up a part. That means heading for the mainland time after time if I want something made up. I'm actually too scared to get quotes as I think many one off things seemingly no matter how small can cost you your first born child as down payment.



Alec,

I'll pretend I didn't hear you but of course I did

 

I have played with such copies Alec and they do serve a purpose well, but commercial business's need a powerful package with customer support and continuos downloads of improvements and bolt ons, along with a troubleshooting team to help solve problems etc .Such packages will only run with an online dongle (supplied by the software company) which is basically your 'licence' to ensure you have a legitimate copy of it. No online dongle, no working software, hence no machine !!!!
Sometime back, one of our chaps took this dongle 'Licence' to another workstation some 50 miles away and plugged it in to activate the software on that particular computer, and within the hour, 'Solidworks' had rung my partner up to enquire why ? The licence is for only the one registered workstation , Mmmmm see, big brother is watching you !!!!
I understand there are various sources of 'moody' copies out there, but they really do limit what a commercial business can do with it
I'm currently looking at an 8x4 CNC plasma table, that software though current,is way less than a £1000 and a one off payment, that software just doesn't need to be that complicated or powerful for cutting out shapes in steel sheet

'Mach' was another option for the mills, but still very expensive

Matty

Cheap Chinese machines are ok, like lamps, you get what u pay for, and certainly good enough for someone to play with in the shed


Think I'd better shut up now as I'm running vastly off topic, sorry Jim

 

Ray,

If a newcomer to this sort of thing needed to pick a machine to make small bits and pieces for lamps would a mill or lathe be best?

For instance, I need a hollow brass 'thingy' that sits over a 23mm OD tube then reduces to about 12mm ID. I would then place a burner on the 12mm end.

The finished item would be 45mmish end to end.

Which machine would you use for such a project?



Jim,

I'll leave your topic alone after this question.

 

Matty

Let's do this via PM to cut away from this thread, I'll be in touch

Cheers

 

I have a question about the globe: The couple of pictures of the Hasag 65 lamp that I have seen show it with a globe that is only open at the top, at the fitting. The bottom of it is closed and probably spherical. Is this the correct globe for the lamp or are these globes a common replacement for decorative purposes? I have several globes like the Coleman one which is open at the bottom, I want to get the correct one for actual use.

Jim.

 

That closed bottom globe is correct. Most lamps have a through draught globe but some like Blanchard and Kitson used a closed globe. This HASAG globe does have the look of a Blanchard small globe and it may be about the same fitter size. Here is a catalogue image of HASAG 65. ::Neil::

 

Thank you, Neil, I thought that must be right but I did not have a decent picture from the manufacturer.That one is super!
The fitting seems to about 14 cm, allowing for the screws to penetrate about 10mm. I shall concentrate on finding this size.
Thank you again,

Regards,

Jim.

 

HI, Folks, my best mate made me a wooden "wall" to fix the lamp to, so, this afternoon, I tried putting paraffin in it, alcohol in the heater and trying to fire it up. I got a "pop" and light! trouble is I have a big leak of paraffin at the large nut above the red knob. I have dismantled the needle and I see there are two brass sleeves on the shaft with a cork disc between them, I suppose this is some sort of seal to allow the shaft to be turned without paraffin leaking round it. Does anybody have experience in fettling this seal, replacing the cork with something more reliable. I tried tightening the large nut above the red knob but all I could achieve was to prevent the knob from turning!

All the best,

Jim.

 

Hi Jim, if I might chime in at the end of a long discussion; on the Petromax and Coleman lanterns, there is a little ferrule or tube of graphite around the shaft, which is pinched tight by the nut. On other types like Tilley, Vapalux and some clones of the Petromax, they use a Viton rubber O-ring or ferrule.

Viton is wonderful material to work as it can be drilled, filed or sanded to the correct shape. You could use either a narrow strip of thin graphite sheet wound around the shaft and then pinched into shape by the nut or a piece of viton cut from a fuel cap seal or similar to make your own seal. It is quite likely that the standard Petromax seal will fit and work on your lamp. If you measure the inner and outer diameter of the seal you need the Pmax experts here will be able to say whether it is the same.
-Phil

 

Thanks, Phil, That seems very doable, I'll get measuring tomorrow!

Jim

 

Jim,
unfortunately most Hasags (except the Petromax-like 42, 52 etc.) use a thinner stem and different nut to seal the packing gland. A standard replacement from Petromax will therefore not fit.
My recommendation would be that you use some graphite or PTFE (Teflon) tape wound around the stem and then stuffed by the nut.
Ragards, Martin

 

Thanks, Martin, I do not know where I can graphite so PTFE will have to do the job. I think the space between the shaft and the tube is pretty big, so graphite would be the best option

Jim.

 

I found that the 2 brass collars have a chamfer to take an "o ring, so I have played all morning trying to get it right, without success!
It stopped leaking, but unscrewing the knob no longer produced the hiss of escaping paraffin vapour!
I'll have another go later!

Jim.

 

As far as I know is there a graphite packing between the chamfer nuts. Not a o-ring.

 

Thanks, Wim, I don't have any idea where I can get a suitable Graphite packing!

Jim.

 

Hej Jim
I know our own Peter Bendel did sell graphite once. You could give him a PM maybe he still Sells that stuff:

http://www.classicpressurelamps.com/forum/showuser.php?uid/129/

Claus C

 

"Trojandog" (Trevor) over at CCS sells graphite sheets. I have some of his, and it is excellent.

Tony

 

Terry, not Trevor.
But the alias was correct.

 

Woops! Sorry, Terry (and Trevor).

 

Keep em coming!

Jim.