After has been identified kindly and swiftly, I'd like to light it. The tank holds pressure, but fuel does not come out after opening the knob. It's a gasoline lamp but was filled with kerosene when I bought it. A few heath and quench cycles over an Optimus 111B stove caused an inferno burning off old fuel and crud, mainly flames coming out of the fuel opening from inside of the fuel tank (yes the fuel tank had been emptied first ). So my guess was that somebody had it running on kerosene and that the fuel line gummed up completely. However the fuel line is still blocked after heating and quenching three times. So I'd kindly like to ask for your help a second time: What could be the cause of this blockage and what would be the best approach? Is there a better/other approach than to keep heating and quenching? I'm not sure how long the solder on the fount will last .. Thanks in advance. Peter Please see the pictures as well: The tank is pumped up to pressure with fuel in it, but it's not coming out:
Rather than run the risk of unsoldering the tank, why don't you just unscrew the valve block? If a spanner on the nut doesn't do it, then hold the valve block in a vice and then unscrew the tank from it. Doing it that way gives you much greater leverage because of the width of the tank. I'm not familiar with these at all but if it's a taper thread (possibly/probably not), count the number of turns as you unscrew it so you can re-tighten it by the same amount after fettling. Otherwise mark it with Tippex or similar. Probably there's a small hole or filter at the bottom of the fuel pipe that's blocked with crud...
Hello David, That's spot on I was hesistating to unscrew the nut on the tank because it was soldered on. After heating and quenching the solder came off anyway .. When (un)screwing around I found out that the valve block was screwed into the tank nut and with some WD40 and force it unscrewed nicely. The fuel intake hole at the bottom was blocked. After pricking and reassembly, a hiss can be heard when opening the control valve so it should work now. Only thing left to do is to put some solder back on the tank nut (to stop leakage). So thank you very much Peter
This worries me some. I know I advocate heat and quench but you don't do that to fittings still attached to a lamp tank and you certainly don't heat the whole tank. There is always the danger of damaging the integrity of the solder seals especially since the heat required is well in excess of the melt point of solder which means that remote parts of the tank can get hot enough to run solder. The other compelling reason not to heat a tank on a stove is the risk of explosion. 99 times in 100 the fuel residues will flame off at the filler but the tank can go bang and trust me you do not want to be there when that happens. It seems you got away with it this time but please don't do it again. In a case like this where the main valve is sealed in with solder you fill the tank with water and then run the solder around the valve threads to remove it. However before doing that a simple tank full of boiling water will often free an old fuel blockage. You can maybe shove 100psi down the tubes as well but only with the filler cap off to avoid over pressure in the tank. ::Neil::
What you did on that fount is extremely dangerous and inadvisable even in the best of circumstances, I would not trust on the structural integrity of that fount anymore. The easy way would have been to flush the fount with Methyl alcohol to dissolve the varnish and gum residue, remove the valve and fuel pickup, soak them in vinegar until all the crud came out, and re assemble. Now you have an annealed fount, with damaged seams,not safe. you can get a new one on the Old Coleman parts store, they are not expensive. you can search with model number. I believe a model 220 fount can be adapted to your upper frame, you may need to use a brass plug, tap it to the correct threads, and install the valve on, just a little creative thinking, unless you can find an original spare. http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/home.php
This is not a Coleman lamp and a Coleman tank may well adapt to fit but it won't be right. As this is a Veritas lamp I have to agree that right now it is a scrap tank. A Coleman might have been OK because the seams are copper brazed but the Veritas was probably soft solder sealed and that base plate seal will be dangerously weakened. You might be able to remove the base plate and re solder it. The brass will be OK because annealing it by heat and quench will actually just remove stress and might actually improve the quality of the metal. It is the solder run that makes it dangerous and to fettle that you will have to remove, clean and re solder. I have to say I have been there and done this. I have also destroyed lamps or parts when dismantling so you are not the first. It happens and like me you just have to learn and move on. ::Neil::
Pfoe .. I'm not sure what to say now .. I don't want to scrap it. The tank bottom does not leak, tested it by pumping up the tank and put in a bucket of water. The pump and filler cap are still airtight too. The nut on top of the tank (in which the fount is screwed) must be held in place by another nut inside the tank, because it turns but does not come loose. Soldering the nut back on the tank should secure it and make a seal. Or glue it with high temperature resistant kit. An extra layer of kit/solder can be added onto the tank bottom for extra safety. I know that's not what you want to hear and I appreciate your concern and your kind words of help. I'll be more careful with the next lamp, but really want to see this one running.
Well it might just be OK and it is your lamp to play with. I have had small stoves maintain integrity after serious heating so it is possible. It is a kero lamp and so long as you don't try with a more volatile fuel I see no reason not to try. Do a full under water pressure test before lighting it though. Clean around the valve nut and run a solder join to seal it. Glue is messy stuff and solder can always be run again if you need to remove the valve again but glue might be more difficult to remove and replace. When you pressure test see if you can measure any dish down of the base plate which might indicate a weakened solder seam and hold it at full test for a few hours. If it holds then it will probably be OK to run. If you get a leak then it will make a mess but should be safe enough. Probably best to do it outside though and not inside a wooden shed either. ::Neil::
I'll fettle it back to live, test it well, make sure it's secure and use it as an outdoor / backyard only lamp. It's a nice first project I've just bought 2 Petromaxes in good condition: An 828 Rapid with spares and a 821 Baby. Both hold pressure and seem in good condition, should light first time. These lamps should be safer for use indoors or bring camping. The Petromaxes:
