Looking for 238B Documentations and Diagrams.

IMHO, the pump design of the Coleman is certainly a more suitable one when it comes to operation with highly volatile fuels. In fact, you can say it is a requirement.
Aluminium isn't always better in every aspect. Yes, it is more resistant to tarnishing and doesn't rust. It is softer and easier to dent or deformed compared to brass or steel. You certainly can't clean it with lye .
The unique straight, multiple-ribbed generator is heavy and does the job pretty well. However, it might be a little too costly to manufacture in the long run. Hard to say if it'd ever beat the Preston loop in kero vaporizing efficacy. It is certainly easier to clean.
A positive shut off valve is unnecessary for kero operation. It is usually rather stoutly-built and therefore adds significant cost in the manufacture.
For whatever reasons, the number of Petromax or Petromax clones still greatly outnumber any Coleman-like designed lanterns in the rest of the World besides the US and possibly Australia. UK is dominated by Tilleys, Vapalux, Bialaddins, etc but these are still Euro styled with the same principles, usually without positive shut off valves and largely for kero operation too.
For lanterns having the same CP ratings, the Petromax-styled lanterns almost always seem to appear brighter than a Coleman or any other types, at least to my eyes. Not sure what's the actual reason though .
Anyhow, both have their own merits and demerits and therefore hard to completely compare them objectively.
The Coleman certainly wins when it comes to safely burning gasoline or any volatile naphthas. The Petromax was never even intended since its debut to burn gasolines at all...so this aspect doesn't really count either.
At the of the day, it still comes to your own preferences. They're just different.

 

Darn! I keep looking for the Like button but it's not there...

 

I find that claim usually varies between petromaxes, and it seems how the mantle inflates and shapes up is one of the key factors. petromaxes certainly inflate larger using the correct mantles for them, thus making them more inherently brighter due to more surface area emitting light.

 

I've made my own seals in the past but it's easier to buy them.
Does the part you need look anything like Valve washer-part#193 here Shop – Britelyt Green Science & Innovations Inc ?

 

Yes, It does. Would it fit?

 

Update, I do have 193's on hand but it sits loose inside the spring housing, I'm afraid it'll go askew and have the rim up the cup crash against the brass mating surface. Is there a way I can safely extract the pip from 193 and transplant it into the correct pip cup?

 

It is a kinda fiddly, especially when there's a central piece of protruding brass piece in the cup which is there to accomodate the push rod.
It can be done with some patience. Just be careful not to rupture the seal material when digging it out. Maybe use a pick that isn't too sharp.

 

I've successfully transplanted the washer into the proper cup, assembled and tightened everything, I'm waiting for the lye to clean the globe of all the baked on crud. I did have fun igniting the rapid torch! I have to buff out the vent back to its lustre.

 

Returning to some earlier conversation in this thread, the Coleman 238B that I have in the shed is made in Canada, dated December 1951, and has English only pressed on its collar.

Cheers

Tony

 

Mine too features the stamped collar in English. Made in Jan of '51

Is yours in working order? I would love to gander.

 

Not in working order… missing the control valve; which I will have to rig.

I am in the shed tidying up so that I can find the surface of the fettling bench.

I’ll take some pics and post them in about 30 minutes.

Cheers

Tony

 

A bit late, but…












It will will need a bit of work to get going.

Cheers

Tony

@Dashwood

 

It seems portions of the top supporting the burner has broken away, I think that section is aluminum and I know aluminum is pure pain to weld if you plan on bridging that broken section together.



Lots of work indeed. I was negotiating someone over seas sometimes ago in purchasing a 238B which had similar damages and I was willing to pay a premium to have it professionally welded. A lantern like that was hard to pass up but difficulty and trusting a wire transfer to a high conflict country put me off.

@Tony Press

 

I did not check on my 238B but if I'm seeing correctly, the broken bridge piece on your lantern looks like it is made of steel.

 

@Dashwood

The broken part is too hard and brittle to be aluminium. It’s not magnetic, but I think it’s stainless steel, not brass. The metal to metal joins have been spot welded.












Cheers

Tony