Hi at all, I just joined a few days ago to this fantastic but infecting forum. I´m located in Bavaria but I doubt there is a Bavaria flag symbol here. Long story short: I´m not really a collector yet. But I like it very much fettling around and these old lamps are too nice... My first fettle a few months ago has been this lovely 200A found at a flea market: Just find the errors...... But now a couple of days ago I received the nice Turner 512 (I think it must be named 1512...) via ebay. But I knew already that this (exactly this) lamp is shown here in the gallery. Frank, the former owner gave obviously up with fettling. This is really completely understandable cause there are really very much issues with it. The one in the left is what I´m writing about: Looks quite good for a lamp from the late 30ies. But.... The maroon colour is not so nice as it looks. The fount is simply overpainted and the whole frame and bail are painted too. The lacquer is 2-components I think cause my heavy acetone treatment didn`t impress it at all. O.K. colour can be fixed later. The fount has got it`s third citric acid treatment and now comes to a quite goot inner condition. But I think it will be leaking when tested with pressure. Maybe I show some pics later. Disassembling was also not so easy. Some nuts and screws have been tightened just by hand (I think Frank did this). Others must be heat-treated and oiled for hours or days. But now everything is loose. One big problem could be this: As you can see the valve rod is heavy pitted by rust at the area where the graphite packing should be. I put it in my handdrill and filed this area down to a more smooth surface. I hope so the new graphite can seal this enough. Maybee I will polish it a little more. At this point: Do you think a little copper paste ore some grease put on the thread would help sealing? This is how it looks now: Also the handwheels got a little linseedoil and the bigger one got it`s white spot back. I think this is enough for a first post here. Regards to everyone and have a nice weekend. Roman
@Toronado Hi Roman and welcome to the forum! I’m sure others will be giving you advice about your lamp. Stevie
Thanks for your Welcome. I hope my English is understandable. Here some parts had a TLC. And the new pump leather is takin a relaxing bath in motor oil. Maybe I should have added some lavender....
Looking good @Toronado . I fettled a pair of these a couple months ago and have lots of photos if needed. I built a new pair of eccentrics to convert them to use Coleman 220 generators for future convenience.
Hi Toby, Using a 220 pricker rod was my thought too. Do I have to convert something? In my lamp no excentric"ring with rod" is required as I can see. I hoped that I just have to cut the hook from the 220 rod and assemble it to the "rod base" I have. For this I have to rob my 220. But luckyly there is a shop where I can get a new 220 generator here. So my 200 will get a new one.
My one looks quite different: There is no ring. And the lower part of the rod is one piece (not dividable where yours is two pieced). It doesn't look like there's something broken. I think this pricker is pushed down by the spring inside the generator.
By the way.... Is there a sealing required between the big doublethreaded nut/screw an the lower valve assembly?
And I'm happy havin' one friend in lamps since a couple of months who is also interested in foreign style lamps. He have a Turner 1511 (I think) and measured the hole diameter of the collar for me. So I purchased this for makin a replacement:
Yours appears to be the same as the one I have photoed, except the bottom ring has gone missing and the pricker rod has been un-crimped... The double thread nut uses flares to seal to the valve assembly and gen tube. So you've got a couple options. One you will need to make a new oval shaped ring to braze back on your stem. Then if you have a good pricker you can reinsert it into the threaded portion. Original Turner gen next to a Coleman 220 Reaming out the crimp. 220 pricker cut to length. After installing and re-crimping everything can be reinstalled. The 220 gen body will work in place of the Turner if you choose. Or you can build a whole new eccentric that will fit a factory made 220 gen.
Yeah man! Perfect. I just have seen the thread at the lower rod..... And divided.. So I have to put a ring to it as I can see. So I have to improve my silver soldering skills and to buy some silver solder....
I silver brazed this one because I had everything and it was handy... But honestly I see no reason you couldn't use a good lead based solder here either... If temperatures are high enough to melt lead that low on the lantern you are going to have many more troubles
I was afraid you would ask that I had the originals and just copied them... I don't recall the dimensions. I'm pretty sure I made an extra. I can check when I get back to work Monday.
Not as smart as your solution but I think this will work. It's the 220 generator with my alu wire. Flattened the upper end an drilled a small hole...
Will see what the fount is. Next week I hopefully receive some seals and a sheet of Viton from whitch I can make the NRV Pip you say. I would say nupsie for that (english spelled noopsie)....And I will receive some Viton seals for the Pump nut.
Welcome @Toronado from Queensland Australia. Your work on the lantern looks to be going very well. Just a tip, perhaps you could use a white or a light background, perhaps a sheet of white paper, when taking pictures of your lantern parts, they would then show up better ...... just a thought Cheers Pete
Welcome @Toronado Your lanterns look great. You've a nice fettle going. I can see the severe corrosion on the valving stem here: It might be out-of-round too. Since it can be completely separated from the Bakelite knob, you can still build it up with silver solder or brazing and then have someone to work it on a lathe to the original dimensions again. Or better, completely make a new one if you have access to a machine shop. Otherwise, in its current condition(pictured), the original graphite packing might not seal as good as it would have been on a smooth round stem. Alternatively, if you leave the stem as it is(without repairs or rebuilding), you might want to try using expanded-graphite packing which, is softer and more easily formed than the original solid graphite piece. It might still work with expanded graphite despite the pitted surface. The above only applies if you do not have any options, replacement or spares coming your way.
Today a little time again. @AussiePete Yes I think you're right. Especially for this I cleaned my small working table. Today arrived some parts such as graphite cord, sheet of Viton, special x-rings which I hope will be sealing the Pump/filler nut. And Yesterday I purchased some Gas for my blowtorch, silver solder, .... Who knows... First I made a new rubber pip for the checkvalve:
Thanks a lot. @MYN as you mentioned I did a little work on the valve rods: I smoothened the surface at the main rod a bit more and made myself new washer and piece of brass for the starter rod. I coudln't believe it... I have the right drill. Bought a couple of years ago for other purposes. The washer I filed down with my haddrill-lathe:
