New owner Hipolito H500

Good day all, new member here.

I have become the owner of the subject lamp that has been somewhat neglected and needs TLC so I’m on that journey now. Lots of polishing and cleaning before I can think about making it work. I have two issues.

First the glass “chimney” (?) is cracked and beyond use. Can these be purchased anywhere and if I’m really lucky, in New Zealand?

Second, in my initial messing about with it I have tried pumping some pressure into the reservoir with little success. The pump “piston” appears to be in nice condition, no nicks or damage and is pliable and soft. I’ve read in this forum that if the reservoir is empty, one can pump all day without any resultant pressure. Is this so? Also, I’m not sure how to test the pressure gauge to be sure it works, maybe it doesn’t.

I’m looking forward to a nice friendship with this lamp. I live rurally with lots of power cuts and suck issues so if this lamp can be made to work it will kick candles into touch. Thanks in advance of advice from members.

 

Hi Cassidy44 - welcome
The Hipoloto is the same as a Petromax 500 - so the glass is interchangeable.
Pressure not building may be down to a number of things: fuel cap/pressure gauge not done up or seal damaged, pressure relief valve on the side of the fuel cap undone or damaged, not closing the foot valve (actuated by the control wheel) or foot valve seal damaged, rapid pre-heater not closed or faulty seal, any other damaged seals. If the pump is pushing back then the non-return-valve seal may be damaged.
One trick is to do the "dunk test" - pump it up and put it in a bucket of water.
I like to replace all the seals on these things when I get them so you may consider a full service kit. (The Petromax 500 should do)

This should help:
https://classicpressurelamps.com/attachments/px-rest-pdf.113324/

best

 

Thanks for that. I note that you’re in the UK and I’m reasonably confident that there are agencies there that sell all of the stuff you recommend. I’m hoping to find suppliers in NZ that can help me with sourcing the bits I may need but my confidence in that is low. I’ll start the search.
Just to confirm though, is the suggestion that a full reservoir will pressurise whilst an empty (even dry) one might not be so easy? Perhaps I should just fill it and try it out.
The link that lays out the full rebuild is a little scary, I’ll need some time to digest that with the lamp in front of me

 

Petromax Spare Part Set HK500

I found the above but I am sure there will be other outlets in NZ.

gas compresses more than liquid - so more pumps needed to get up to pressure if it is empty. If you are not familar with these lanterns take some time out to understand how they work

 

To be honest, I'd concentrate on making the lamp work first then polish afterwards.

The pump leather may be soft and pliable but is moist ? A little light oil may make a lot of difference - neatsfoot oil, 3-in-1 or vegetable oil all work well. NEVER use linseed oil, raw or boiled it will transform the leather into wood overnight.

It will take considerably more pumps to get any significant pressure into an empty tank than a full one. With the lamp turned off i.e. point on the control wheel pointing up, pressure release screw closed and a full tank (optimum capacity 1 ltr.) it could still take 20 or 30 pump strokes before the needle on the pressure gauge moves. Even if it doesn't move, open the pressure release screw and listen for the hiss of escaping air.

You can use gas cartridges for refilling lighters to check the operation of the pressure gauge.

 

Welcome @Cassidy44
First of all, it'd be good for you to identify all the parts in your Hipolito H500. That way, you'd be sure if are all present/complete or partly missing. They are about the same or similar to those of the equivalent 500HK Petromax 829. Here's a parts diagram and list:

Some parts might be differently named by us here but they mean the same thing. They might appear daunting initially to any begineer but rest assure, you can always make an orderly start at any point.
In my opinion, it is best to start by checking out the fount(fuel tank) and all the attached parts on it. The most obviously crucial would be to ensure that it is not compromised and not leaking in any way. Like advised earlier, check all the seals. Make sure part no.10(pump valve or NRV) is still there and working as it should.
Many of us here would be glad to guide or advise as you proceed.

 

Welcome aboard!

 

spoken like a veteran cricketer

 

Wow, that’s awesome help, many thanks. I’ll contact themon Monday.

 

Yes I think that’s good advice. I need to replace the glass first, pretty sure the lamp won’t work with a broken glass. The rest of the lamp looks to be in complete and pretty sound condition.

 

I’ve got to say, I’ve been on many forums involving other subjects/products and have never had a response close to this.

Many thanks to all who have responded, I’m sure with all this input, restoring my lamp will be a breeze. I’m looking forward to seeing it light up.

 

I read in another thread that lighting the lamp without the glass chimney is not only possible but desirable to prevent sooting of the glass when starting with a new mantle.

But that was on a Coleman lamp. Is that valid for a Hipolito as well?

 

Good luck with restoring.. they are well made lanterns which always helps
tbh the seals are the first thing I do now.. the type of seal used back then had a definite lifespan.. not always obvious as seals can have hardened but will be ‘stuck’ to the surfaces they are tightened to so will give the impression of still working.. that is why sometimes a lamp will light up if the pump leather is supple enough but regular use will bring out the faults?
Perhaps there are some suppliers in Aus ?
All the best

 

Thanks, with the help of another member I found a supplier in NZ.

 

Sweet

 

Yes it is but if you're outdoors find a sheltered area as any draughts may cause the lamp to flare up, it's not really a problem for the experienced lamper but it can be alarming for the first time user.
Why does it do this ?
Without a glass to contain the heat, a bit of a draught can cool the vapouriser enough that liquid paraffin exits the jet rather than vapour.
What do I do ?
KEEP CALM. Simply undo the pressure release screw on the filler cap (or loosen the filler cap). With no pressure to push fuel up the vapouriser the lamp will go out.
Find a more sheltered place.

 

Actually it's having experienced a wooden pump leather when fettling a newly acquired lantern which just happened to be a Hipolito 502.

Cricket ? I haven't played since I left school. I didn't like it then and I don't like it now. I rather watch paint dry as it's far more interesting than cricket.

 

So I’ve started some exploratory work on the lamp. Don’t know if it makes any difference but the model designation is H502, not H500. I’m sure there’s not a lot of variation.

One of the things I started on was obviously stripping with a view to closer inspection and cleaning. Then I started looking for things that to my eye, just didn’t look right and that may lead to pressure loss in the fount.

The cap device that closes off the rapid pre-heater appeared to be leaking. On closer observation, there looks to be a hard rubber seal in the tip of the cover that appeared deformed and the alignment of the cover looked off. I took a trim knife and dressed the rubber seal and that took care of the leak as I could then “draw a vacuum” with my mouth/tongue (always my go-to for leak-checking small vessels).

But the alignment still bothers me. Seems like the rubber seal has been compressed to a point where the cover has to go past optimum to achieve a seal. The parts diagram doesn’t show a packing for this. Can I just fabricate a hard rubber packing and replace what is there?

 

Yes you can, Cassidy.
It is nearly similar to the rubber pip of the pump's non-return valve.
You'd want something that isn't too hard. Something that'd easily conform to the slight curvature around the rapid preheater's nozzle orifice, when compressed by the moderate force of the preheater's spring lever. If the material's too hard, the tension of the old spring might not be enough to deform it sufficiently to form a good seal.
You can actually perform a leak test on the fount at this early stage by pumping it up and see if it holds pressure. Partially fill it with some kerosene or mineral spirits so that you don't have to put in so many strokes of air.
Alternatively, you can also pressurize without the fuel and place it underwater(dunk test) to check for escaping air in the form of bubbles.
There are many points on the assembly that can potentially leak, even on a seemingly fine-looking fount.

 

Yep, I tentatively made a small plug from an ordinary pencil eraser and it worked just fine but maybe a bit too soft. Over time it will probably fail so I'll find some harder rubber and make a more permanent one.
Thanks for input

 

I hope you also have the outer cap for the rapid pre heater. (pic. 9 in the doc, which you should read and re read)
I would also advice that you start with using the alcohol pre heater disc.

 

Preferably, the material should at least be resistant to kerosene although that preheater pip is hardly in contact with it. Many rubbers aren't that resistant to fuels. Two suitable materials that are commonly used for the seals in these devices are Buna-N and Viton. The latter is somewhat more resistant but more expensive and usually comes with a little higher Shore/hardness ratings.

 

Model H501 must be preheated with alcohol / spirit.
Model H502 has a rapid preheater.

Yes it does, it's part 229.

This is incorrect.



Read and re-read the document as Wim suggests and take a good look at pics 41, 42 and 43.

 

This page from Hytta.de shows the explosion view in a bit better resolution than the one @MYN has posted above.
It is essential that the parts #221 and #224 form a tight seal. Yours is stuck in the flame tube #220, as @Henry Plews has already pointed out.
There is no gasket between these parts, so the metal surfaces must be 100% clean and free of scratches etc.. Otherwise the pressurized air from the tank will have the opportunity to escape between the surfaces, and even if the seal #229 works perfect there will always be a slight loss of pressure during use.
Believe me: This is one of the most annoying faults, really hard to find and causing the need for frequent pumping during operation.
I even tend to assume that this was the initial fault at your lantern, as it is definitely not possible to unscrew part #221 together with part #220 if everything is mounted correctly. Also the corrosion at the threads of part #221 might point at this direction.

 

I doubt this. You can easy turn the tube and unscrew the jet nut #221.
Remove the flame tube #220 turning it clockwise while pulling it of the nut.

Keep in mind the rapid pre heater has a filter (#187) and two small air holes in the main body part of #224
The rapid fuel feeding tube can be screwed off but be careful it is a fragile tube ! With old lanterns it can be partly blocked with dirt despite the filter at the end, (diesel usage/broken filter/blocked filter).

For usage: with a freshly filled tank the air volume is rather small. Pressure will drop rapidly with using the rapid. That is why it is called the rapid pre-heater ;-)
There is a rather small undefined band of pressure on with the rapid will operate fine. Not all like the max. of 2bar. I found that my lanterns like a lower pressure better.

It is a clever invention but maybe a little to sophisticated to use in the field.

 

You can always find a position in which you can hold the hexagon of the connector body #224 with the Petromax wrench without scratching the pressure vessel.
With the older domino rapid lever , you sometimes have to turn the lever slightly so that you can insert the key .
@Cassidy44
Please take this opportunity to clean the suction tube with a suitable wire.

 

I always mount the rapid body #224 without the rocker, flame pipe and other bits.
Whatever solution one uses: make sure the rocker doesn't suddenly flip over on the tip of the body (224), it can damage the tip.

 

@WimVe
Of course I do that too,it's a logical matter of course. I just wanted to Show that the Petromax wrench fits well and what it is made for, among other things.
If you hold part 224 with the Petromax wrench, you can disassemble parts 221 and 222 with another wrench.

 

@Cassidy44
Look here,these are parts 221 and 224.You have to twist them well together,because together they form a kind of metallic seal,so the surface I marked have to be 100% flawless.

When you have assembled everything,you put the empty pressure vessel under pressure of 0,5-1,0 bar, then you press it under water.Rising bubbles reveal leaks.

 

Part 229 implies that the little brass (?) pocket that contains a rubber insert can be replaced. I get that. But I intend the replace the rubber insert only - does not come seperate.

Also, yes, absolutely incorrect, this image was not intended to reflect final assembly, just to indicate the area that I wish to remedy.