Morning all! I just recently got into lanterns and coleman equipment in general, and so far I really enjoy these things! While talking to my dad this past weekend, he mentions that he found a lantern at a yard sale years ago and bought it just because it looked great! He couldn't recall the name or anything and it has been hanging in the shed out back for years now. Probably 25+ I would assume. I mention I would like to see it, we go to the shed, he grabs it and gives it to me. I never heard of Optimus before but a little research fixed that! I am very happy to have it in my growing collection, but I have a few questions about it too. Here is a picture, keep in mind barn/shed fresh! It is an Optimus 1200 lantern and I am pretty stoked about it! As I said, I do have questions! How do I find the date of this little guy? Am I missing a piece off of the fuel cap? What should I start with to get the corrosion off of it? Where is the best place to find parts for this? Off hand I need a globe and new leather for the pump. Thank you all for looking and thanks in advance for any answers! Cheers! ~Ed
First off, welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place for info about lamps. I'll try and answer your questions in order. The fuel cap is fitted with an over pressure relief valve instead of the normal pressure release screw. This makes me think of a question of my own. As this is bought in the US, I am suspecting that this might be a 1200B (i.e. gasoline fuel). If you could take some more photos without the glass this would help. What I use to get rid of corrosion is a citric acid bath. Normally I use a tablespoon of chrystals to 1.5 litre of hot water. It's better to take the parts out more often and have to put them back than leave them too long. Parts availability depends on which parts. Shops would be in Europe though. Fogas in Sweden is always a good start for a swedish lamp. You say you need a glass, but it looks alright in the photo. If the pump leather is still there it might only need a good soak in a light oil. I would advise replacing the filler cap washer as well. A suitable size should be available from the fettle box (top right corner of the page). That should be enough for now. Good luck with the restoration.
Nils, Thank you for all the information! I very much appreciate it! I was curious which model I had because I have read about the "B" model. Which, in your opinion, is the better model to have? Talking with dad last night, he was a little shocked when I mentioned it should be a kerosene only lantern. He replied to me with, "it worked just fine with CF in it." When he said that, it raised a question for me and answers a question too! As I read about this being a kerosene only lantern, I also read that this lantern does not have a positive shutoff, and the problem is that if I were to relieve the pressure the way you are supposed to with these lanterns, having a more volatile fuel in the fount, you could expect problems. I guess the question is why didn't he have a problem when he fired it, and the answered question is, dad did fire it! I will be able to take more pictures tonight of the lantern for better identification. For now I have a picture of the globe with a "chunk" missing, and there is a crack that goes all the way down from there as well. The pump leather has a bit of it torn off and do not think that it will work properly, so I would like to get a new one of those as well. I have brought other leather cups back to life, but I believe this is too far gone for that. I will look for the right filler cap as you reccomend, but I like the look of some of the kits that you list. Thank you again for your reply, here is one pic for now, and more to come this evening! Cheers! ~Ed
But that's what Nils said! Where did the "kerosene only lantern" from? He said that it was possible that this was the gasoline model rather than the kereosene one, and I agree.
I understand that is what Nils said, I just looked back on my post and realize the phrasing could be different. When I saw his post stating he thought it could be gasoline instead, a little light went off in my head reflecting on what I my father had said last night. I am not trying to argue with Nils at all, it was an "ah-ha" moment for me and I did a poor job bringing it to life in text. Very sorry about the confusion. ~Ed
Well that glass could be used until a whole one turns up. Sounds like you do need a new pump leather. There are several places I would get one in Europe, but it should be possible to get them over your way as well. Looking forward to more photos to help with the identification. I can't really tell from the photo if it is nickel plated or just bare brass. That could help with dating. As for the issue of using Gasoline/CF in an Optimus 1200B. The factory did sell them for use with this fuel but there is one area where I would be careful. The pump valve is just a spring loaded rubber seal and no positive shut off. You'd want to be sure this seal is in good order. On the plus side, it doeas have a valve for the fuel and there is no pressure release screw on the filler cap.
Got home today and started taking her apart so I could grab some good pictures! There are a lot coming in the thread here but for the sake of identifying this lamp, I believe it will be worth it! Also, if anyone needs more pictures to help, please let me know and I will get more. Since I took the pictures, I have cleaned up some of the general dirt off of it. I have been using WD-40 as a cleaner right now. I sure hope that is safe until I get it to a point where I want to start removing the oxidation off the rest. Please advise if it is a bad move. On with the show! Cheers ~Ed
It's a gasoline lantern since vaporizer is straight tube without Preston loop. 1200 is very nice and handy lanterns. Small size, low fuel consumption and puts out lots of light. In third photo from bottom is there stress cracks on the bottom of the tank? There seems to be some inequality on bottom plate on 12 clock and on 1:30 pm position. Also is there some solder left from that 1:30 pm point or is it just original solder from the Optimus factory? Glass globe in it's condition can be used until it brakes into part. So just get one(or two for future needs) new for spare to wait until original brakes totally.
Afterburner, Thank you for verifying this is the B model! I have uploaded the max size photo I could for this forum using the image optimiser here. Forgive the rotation of this photo but I think you might be able to see it better this way. I do not know what you mean about stress cracks, but I am not sure the markings you're seeing are stress cracks. I do believe that there is excess solder on the bottom, but do not know if it from the factory or not. Hopefully the bigger picture answers some questions. I have been worried about using the globe as it, because I do not want it to shatter. I am starting to fear that finding a replacement globe will be quite hard to do. I am really excited to start cleaning this lantern up! Should I take the generator tube off or not? I am going to disassemble the flame thrower tube this evening, but don't know whether or not I should take the generator off too? Thank you to all that have been checking in on this thread and helping me along the way so far! After several different posts on how to clean the tarnish off of it, I think I have made a plan of attack. As I said, I have been using WD-40 to help clean the grimey stuff off of it, and in doing so, most of the fount has been subjected to that. I went out and bought a package of the "magic erasers" and think I will start with trying them. After thinking about it, the magic in the sponge is due to a super super soft/fine "abrasive". I am still debating about what to use with the sponge, mild soap and water mixture, or possibly the WD-40? I want to be as careful with this as I can, I would hate to start removing any of the nickel plating.
I don't think the two creases on the base are stress cracks. They are too paralell for that and are most likely stamping marks from the factory. The only way to tell will be to do a pressure test. I very much doubt the glass will shatter. These are made of the equivalent of pyrex glass and can stand the heat. The only risk is that the crack grows and a section might fall out. These glasses are not uncommon "over here" so getting a replacemnt shouldn't be a problem. Ones without the Optimus brand are readily available. There should be no drama in removing the vaporiser (generator). If the cleaning needle is still intact, just be careful with that. If you decide to remove the valve assembly from the tank then you will need a new lead washer when you refit it (so that it can be aligned with the name on the tank). Just keep on asking if you need more help.
Glass globe should be easy to get as Nils mentioned. Just measure it and use search engine to find source from your side of "the big water". I found five those Optimus globes and two general ones from one store here. So I bought all of them just to my spare stock. Recently I got one Petromax baby and one Optimus 550cp lanterns. They were about in same condition than yours is. Petromax was worse and Optimus better than yours. If/When oxidation is removed some nickel will go away so that will be the price of cleaning. I have thought that if I need a bit more clean lamp I am ready to accept consequences. When I cleaned that Optimus and Petromax I used a double sided scrub sponge that has soft and harder sides. Like this one: http://www.vileda.ca/product/soft-scrub-sponge/ Rough side was good for more dirty parts and softer side for almost clean areas. I used a scrubbing liquid that is used to clean stains from toilet sink or ceramic surface kitchen stove. It feels that there is very-very small particles that helps to remove oxidation. Similar particles that chrome polishing paste contains. Maybe this is similar that I used: http://www.doraziocleaningsupply.com/Soft-Scrub-Liquid-Cleanser-Lemon-38-oz-Qty-6-p/dia15020.htm Maybe that citric acid is more easy to use, but I have been too lazy to find a place to get crystals. Maybe those marks at the bottom of the tank are from factory. Just for fun when you get tank cleaned and parts back into tank do the pressure test to see that there is no leaks.
Thanks for the information guys! I will use this globe for now until I find another one! I do have more questions. I was cleaning some of the smaller parts this evening and for the most part I believe they cleaned up well! As I took the flame thrower tube off, and cleaned up the base,I expected to see a small pinhole for the fluid to come up, but there was none. So, how does that work? Also, this is a lot of hand work to clean these parts, so anything I can do with a dremel tool and small soft wire wheel would be great. What parts of this lantern would be acceptable to do that too? I am thinking its minimal and that the list would include the handle and the entire top piece that the vaporiser tube is incorporated in, but im not sure. It seems that those two parts are steel but with the oxidation on them it is hard to tell if they are plated with anything or not. Last thought for the evening is the general patina of the whole thing. I have cleaned up the "hat" and it is nice, but I am starting to dig the general green oxidation of the fount and other pieces. Im not trying to get out of work, but when I was able to remove the green oxidation from that, it is (to me) fairly varnished and different shades. Im not sure if that would come out with a good polishing or not. Anyone have thoughts on this? Alright, picture time of the progress! Cheers! ~Ed
Luckily those old Sweden made lanterns have excellent plating on all parts so even after long period of storage it is possible to get parts into original(almost) condition. If you store currently sold China made lanterns in outdoor shed for couple/few of years they fade(=rust) away. Old Optimus/Primus/Petromax could have been in barn or out door shed from 30's/40's and they still run and can be cleaned into decent condition. I have left nickel plated parts in my old lanterns to a "polish grade" as your hat is now. I think that nickel plating is quite thin so I don't want to peel it off. Also even with excessive polishing nickel plating will not get as shiny as chrome plated parts. I have used Dremel with plastic wire rotating brush for all parts. For steel & brass parts I have used brass brush in Dremel.
Hey all! I have been awfully busy and life took an unfortunate turn. I suppose that on the bright side, now that I am a little more settled to living alone, I should have more time for working on my lanterns! Just wanted to touch base and let you all know I have not given up! Cheers! ~Ed
