I started renovating, and fixing a Petromax 2826. I'ts bad condition, but i'd like to save. When i dismantle the vaporizer, i saw the rod is missing the neddle, and another end is broken.. the vaporizer's material isn't brass, it's steel of course full of rust I het up and drop the water some times, after is pulled out the stuck part. So the tube is clear, but i dont know, not missing nothing? Can you help me fix my 2826 with some pictures? I'd like to see what the originally vaporizer, all parts. What do you think, if missing some parts, can i change it complete for this? http://www.pelam.de/product_info.php?cPath=30_50_87&products_id=181
Hello Roy Many people used acid to clean generator, acid will remove the rust. Perhaps you can buy these small round steel brushes, they are very usefull in cleaning Pmax generators. You can also heat a generator up till it's glowing red and then put it in cold water, this will loosen the dirt in the generator. I hope some other can place pictures of a Pmax 2826. regards Henk
Hi Roy Its possible to remove corrosion another way, but I have only knowlegde with ironstuff. 1. Take a plastbuckett (10 l) and fill with water. 2. Fill in and stirr out a cup of salt. 3. Putt 1 or 3 pieces of scrap-iron in the water and connect them with wire. 4. Take a plast-bar, ex. a cloth-hanger and put it across on top of the buckett. Tie your rusty subject to the bar so it is covered with water. 5. Take a battery-charger, not a battery, and connect the minus (black) beak to your subject and the red to the scrap-metal and switch on the power. You will now see the rust/corrosion starts bubbeling and it is transported to scrap-metal through the water. CAUTION: 1. The bubbles in the water is hydrogen and they can explode - so no smoking and do it in a ventilated place. 2. Do not dip the red (plus) beak under water - it will disappear the same way as the rust. 3. The red and black, plus and minus must NOT touch each other - it will cause short circuit. 4. Dont leave the constellation - keep an eye and away from children. Remember this is a amateur-advice and you have to think about what you are doing. I hope it comes in usefull for your work. Claus C.
Here is a couple of sites showing it done using this princip - in various ways. Just ment as an example: http://www.rustfjerner.dk/elektrolyse/elektrolyse.htm http://cuoresportivo.no/index.php?topic=31111.0 http://www.forum.svartkrutt.net/index.php?mode=thread&id=10183 Basically there is no limit for the size of tank/buckett you will use. Claus C.
Anytime Roy - you can repay when im finished fettling my colman milspec and I need to light it up hehe. Claus C.
Hey Roy I think these plates is a common problem. I have several lamps, where the plates misses because people fond of shiny brass cannot accept this black and silver piece of metal so they dismount them and throw them away. Basically it is just a thin piece of tin so it should be easy to make in size and to stamp numbers in. The tricky stuff is to make the print. I have heard it to be called "Silkprint", what ever that is. Some of our masterfettlers here on CPL must have had same problem - and solved it. I would sure like to know if that is the case. Claus C
I plan to make new plate similar to this for my Hasag Polar - original was eat by rust. I have some idea how to do this: 1. print on some photo or another slippy paper mirrored negative picture of plate on laser printer. 2. use iron to transfer printing from paper to aluminium plate. 3. use black paint to paint uncovered places. 4. remove toner with hot water after paint dry. I made many PCBs in similar way and I think it should work for it too. Here is movie how to make PCB it this way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKEe3otWstM cheers, Michal
