G'day all, On this site, I have seen many fine examples of members breathing new life into their old brass and chrome lamp bits and pieces. For me it's very therapeutic - I know many find it tedious. This fount has just finished stage one of polishing. I washed the fount in warm soapy water. I then used a small amount of paint thinners in conjunction with a large steel wool ball to remove the lacquer. I then used a brown buffing compound with a sisal wheel for the first stage of polishing. You have to be careful with the brown compound and sisal wheel as the two combined will 'cut'. I use this combination as it helps to remove scratches etc. The wheels are used on tapered spindles attached to a bench grinder/polisher. I find variable speed bench polishers to be very useful. For the 2nd stage of polishing I will be using a stitched cloth wheel and green compound. Whilst this combination will cut I can polish an apple without removing the skin so it's very minimal, if done well. For the third stage (doubtful it will be needed) I will be using a white compound with an unstiched cloth wheel. There is no cut involved in this stage, it's just a matter of how brilliant you wish the end result. The white compound, if used, is useful for removing any fine films of compound left over from the previous polishing. The white compound is non greasy and wont remain on the object polished. Usually I just use metho to wipe the polished object over to remove any film that even the eye can't see. There is a black compound that is like using emery sandpaper. It will cut much harsher and is very useful for getting deeper scratches out. Using a combination of a bench polisher and a non woven nylon wheel makes cleaning rusty bits so much easier. If done correctly, there is little evidence left on the exposed metal, of a nylon wheel being used. In fact, it makes the perfect surface for undercoat to adhere to. Using the nylon wheel makes it very easy to removed baked enamel as well as rust. No toxic chemicals like paint stripper needed. Further, there is no need to manually use harsh wire brushing or sandpapering. Lacquer removal remains problematic as it gums up about anything. I much prefer to use thinners and remove it with stainless steel wool and a rag.
Hi Jeff. I have been taking so much from this site and asking a lot of questions and hoped by posting about the polishing it would be of some use to some others. This topic isn't meant to show off 'my' shiny fount. It's more to highlight how good a job can be done at virtually no risk to the fount. I started polishing brass by hand. After needing several finger transplants followed by a couple of entire hand transplants I had to find a better way. (Obviously, tongue in cheek) Reading through topics I get the distinct feeling that quite a few members believe that polishing brass founts may somehow weaken them. I would hope that perhaps I can help ease fears that you are removing layers of brass that then weakens the fount. Obviously being a pressurised vessel any weakening would of course be a bad idea. It would best be thought of that, rather than polishing the brass itself, 99% of it is actually buffing the layers above the brass and that buffing removes those layers of grime/oxidation exposing the brass. Technique comes into it too. Like when using most power tools, you let the tool do the work. If you use too much pressure, sure you are going to remove the layers of grime and then be buffing away at the brass or whatever surface you are working on. Still, if you left cloth constantly spinning against brass, I wouldn't stand around hoping to see what the result is - I'd suggest come back in monthly intervals and have a look. Of course with this fount I wasn't exposing brass, I was exposing the chrome plate. I don't know how long it would have taken by hand to buff the fount but using the bench polisher took 10 minutes - if that.
Polishing and cleaning with the wrong thing does.... Specifically ammonia based products are to be avoided. I use T-cut for my polishing, but like anything else you have to use it with care.
Marty, what polishing products are you using? I'm keen on setting up something similar with my bench grinder so any advice on brands, types etc would be great. I figure that me being in NZ that I would have easy access to the same products as what you can get in Australia
Hi mharron, Give me a few days and I'll look around for a bench polisher with a flexible shaft thrown in plus a list of what you will need to get started. I'll send you the information and some tips via Private Topic. Bits and pieces can add up but at least I have done a lot of the leg work already so as to save you hours of looking for things at the best prices. Do you have Bunnings in NZ? Compounds are expensive online (because of the postage)so I usually buy them from Bunnings or another type of hardware store.
I totally agree. I don't know what T-Cut is but I suspect some type of polish. Once the grime and paint/lacquer are removed from parts I avoid using anything other than my compounds. I normally use vinegar for the grime and metho for the lacquer. The odd wipe of metho to remove any left over compound between stages of polishing may occur. I generally use talcum powder (baby powder) on a rag to remove such residue but sometimes a wipe with metho then back to the talcum powder is needed. Talcum powder removes any greasy films left on the polished items and removes them with no cut taking place. Some specialist brass polishes have ammonia in them. That is a bit odd.
Matty, The ammonia is only a problem if the brass you're working with is used under pressure as in say a lantern fount or a cartridge case. There can be a chemical reaction between the brass and ammonia that weakens the brass. If the item you're polishing doesn't need to withstand pressure there's no harm in using ammonia based products. So Brasso is still fine for buttons and belt buckles but stick with polishing compound for lantern and stove tanks.
