The tulip had broken and there were no spare parts. It occurred to me to try with the system that is used to make the "vitreux". The optimal south result! The lamp remained stationary for a long time without the glass breaking. Cheers, Primuseum
I think that is soldered lead - same method as making a Terrarium. An inspired idea! May not be original but it's far better than broken.
I have a broken Perfection 735 globe that I have been considering mending the same way. But will it stand the heat?
It's a good question Phil. How has it been done? Modern Terrarium construction is adhesive backed copper tape and 60/40 tin lead solder - when you could get it. I have doubts about that method. For solder like that at 250C or higher - game over. Maybe it never gets there. You can go higher using lead free solders - maybe 350-400C? The adhesive glue would give up much earlier than the solder but who cares? It's only there to keep the copper tape in shape before soldering. The old way for leaded windows (AFIK) was a formed piece of lead in H shape (nasty & poisonous) melted at higher temperature to fuse to itself. I wonder which it is?
I suppose one way would be to test the lead or solder under operating conditions on a working lamp or heater. There is a Japanese technique for mending pottery with gold. Probably a bit over the top for our purposes. Even silver solder may cost more than the globe is worth if you use it as a filler like lead.
Gold is a bit high end? It would look nice. I have been playing with unleaded solder today - only on a small scale. Weird stuff. Soldering iron sculpts the surface - it will not meld with it. With old 60/40 Tin Lead a soldering iron melts a puddle around the bit. On lead free it drills a hole - quite unwillingly. Really peculiar. Flux effect is only marginal. I have yet to understand the behaviour of it.
