Hello guys, I was hoping someone would be able to tell me why the fuel control valve knob is frozen and how to fix the problem.
Hello, The best way to free up the valve wheel is to loosen the packing nut behind it. This should allow the wheel to turn independently of the nut, then just retighten the nut to seal it.
You risk damage here so be careful. Way forward is to remove the valve block from the tank and remove everything you can from the casting, unscrew the packing nut and if possible pull back the packing. Not important if the packing stays in place though because that can be replaced. Then heat and quench to release the needle valve. You can do this with the casting still in the tank but better if it is out to prevent compromising any solder seals in the tank. ::Neil::
Well before you do that, have a look at the various YouTube clips supposedly showing you how to light correctly any lantern you care to name. Most of them show you exactly what NOT to do. The worst offenders I've seen so far include the owner of BriteLyt demonstrating how to light one of their lanterns and some idiot lighting a Coleman 530(?) stove in the kitchen sink. The Tilley X246B is also shown frequently being lit by all kinds of incorrect methods. As a source of the definitive method of doing anything correctly, YouTube is well down my list...
Heat and quench is easy enough. You just need to be aware that solder melts at around 250c and you will be heating well beyond that so it can only be done with parts that are not soldered. Just apply heat until the object gets to a dull red and then quench in cold water. This often frees up locked threads and will also free up any metal to metal joint. You might need to repeat the operation a few times but it will not harm any brass parts as this action only aneals the metal. ::Neil::
Before I attempt to try to take apart the red /black Coleman-Sears I want to try taking this one apart for practice. I paid 4 dollar for this one for the globe. Is this ready to be removed as is? I wasn't able to get it off but I thought I'd check with you guys while the penetrating oil works overnight.
Hi, not trying to teach grandmother to suck eggs, but have you seen this guide? https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/re_2lant_a.php I found it really helpful with my Coleman lanterns.
Hello again gentlemen, Some progress made I have the fuel control valve loose .Its turning now. I did the heat/quench method and that did the trick but while doing the heat part I had a flash shoot out from where the arrow points. Is this just packing material and I just cracked it? It seems to still have packing left around the shaft and some near the washer. Am I ok to proceed or what? Thanks, Doug
Hello Doug, The flash you got was more than likely left over fuel trapped in the valve. The graphite packing is basically the same size as the brass collar that contacts it; so there is plenty still in there. The large nut pushes on the packing which in turn compresses around the shaft and the inside of the housing. Over tightening the outer nut causes the shaft to be hard or impossible to turn. It is a replaceable part but that can be done at a later date if it doesn't seal. Be sure to pressure up the lantern to test it before you try to light it. Leaks from this joint are common until the packing gets set in correctly.
That graphite packing softens when heated so damage there is not so important since you can re set it by heating the part and tightening the nut to expand the packing to fit. It can be replaced and new graphite can be bought from Old Coleman Parts but you can repack with PTFE/Teflon string which will also stand the heat and give a very good seal. ::Neil::
