Stuck Tilley TL10 Cock - Won’t Unscrew

Need some help and advise please, I recently acquired this old TL10 with the older style cock pictured below, I’m having issues unscrewing the cock from the column/stem its rock solid.

Ive used CRC and a spanner but it wont shift. Any ideas how what else i can try to unscrew this without causing damage to the cock or stem.

If i get my wife to hold the base and use a spanner on the cock will the pressure snap the solder at the base or twist the stem where in meets with the tank causing it to buckle.

Also is unscrewing anticlockwise ?

Any tips and advise would be very much appreciated.

Kind Regards
Darren

 

Darren

Before doing anything else... is it soldered in place?

Tony

 

I have no idea Tony, i can’t see any solder but its a little rough on the joins when you run your finger over it. Do you possibly have a photo on one that has been soldered, just so I can get a rough idea if mine has been.

Also if it has been sold it how are you supposed to clean the filter is it gets blocked. Also counterclockwise is to unscrew it ?

Cheers
Darren

 

@Kiwiboy00
Hi Darren.
On my EX4 ' the cock valve is soldered, and there is no fine mesh filter that i know of.
It may be the same, i have a lamp like yours, ill check it out and let you know

 

Thanks Darryl i’ll take some photos close-up it might happen to identify if its soldered as I don’t really know what I’m looking at.

Cheers
Darren

 

Ill look very close tomorrow

 

Here is some close up photos hope this helps.

 

These are put together pretty well.
Sometimes you just have to do it.
Anti-clockwise to undo.
Don't bend the control arm.
Give it a good quick sharp wrench.
You'll be right.


I was typing when you posted ... that does look odd ..

Surely if that was solder it would reflect with a bit of a scratch.

 

Even if the solder did come undone at the top of the fluted column, and I do not think it will, it is not a total catastrophe because there is a fuel line going up inside the column.
IE that join is not a seal.

 

Are there any signs of old kero tar down the control cock ??

 

Im hoping if the cock is soldered in that i can blow torch it to heat the cock up
to get it off, but worried the solder at the top of the stem where the cap is below the cock might fall off.

 

No

 

In my opinion you'd be better off giving it a good wrench than to heat it.

 

In my opinion, you'd be better off leaving it well alone.

Remind me why it's so important you dismantle this...

 

Before getting heavy handed why not prop it upside down in penetrene (or similar) for a day or so (or soak it in very hot light motor oil) then wrap cock with leather and grip cock in vice turn font (carefully or you might tear pricker control off )

 

It looks to me like someone has used exhaust paste instead of a washer?

@Kiwiboy00 ..Why not try putting it in boiling water before undoing it anti-clockwise?

 

What a kerfuffle over a TL10 which is my least favourite Tilley table lamp, perhaps because they must have been sold in their thousands in Aberdeenshire and my heart sinks when I come across another. If all else fails Kiwiboy just scrap it!

 

Agree with David, is there a real good reason for removing it? I think I would leave "sleeping dogs lie"...
Too much pressure and you could wreck it!

 

I would use a sharp thin blade or a junior hacksaw blade to test the solder/gunk and then carefully cut through the solder/gunk, any residue can be cleaned off once the control cock has been removed.

 

@Kiwiboy00 , mine just unscrewed with my fingers, your must be glued, gasket cement like stuff.

 

Ok quick update, I soaked the cock in oil overnight, followed by soaking it in boiling hot water, before putting the cock in the vice. It managed to break free and un-screw.

It appears to have had some sort of gasket cement seal instead of the original black seal. I also noticed that the cock filter sock was completely blocked. I also could not see the hole where the kerosene comes up into the cock as it was completely blocked with muddy dusty gunk.

I managed to use some piano wire and hot water to clear the blockage.

Question.....can i use the old original cock without the filter sock as it was bugged beyond cleaning, or could it damage my vaporiser with no filter ?

Also how would i go about cleaning the corinthian column to bring it up nice and polished as the grooves stop you from sanding it.

I also need advise on how to remove the dent that’s pictured in the pump tube, not sure how this dent happened but would like to remove it if possible.

NOTE: Thank you to everyone that has assisted with advise in helping me getting the cock off the stem. The oil and hot water worked a treat

Regards
Darren

 

Wood dowel - close fit, cut/file flats as required to get it in, twist to get part way there then metal rod a frag under i/d with taper to start it then gentle tapping with nylon hammer

 

Sharp intake of breath!

Sanding (i.e. with glasspaper) is for wood. For metal, other abrasives are available although I wouldn't recommend any of them for that brass column. The finest grade steel wool might do the trick as long as you're not too heavy-handed with it. I'd use some sort of metal polish - probably the 'B' one - and clear lacquer afterwards to prevent further tarnishing.

Remember, the more you clean and polish, the more of that original brass lacquer and then substrate metal you'll remove and you'll eventually lose the fine detail.

On reflection, I probably wouldn't bother to clean it much at all - I like to preserve patina, originality and history. Just my two penn'orth...

 

It's progressing and yes, you can use that control cock without a sock filter attached to it, but it's best to thoroughly clean out the tank and the fuel feed pipe and to only use fresh clean fuel.

Your lamp and the control cock were originally highly polished and lacquered and it will restore well, it's possible to use fine emery paper and fold it and use the folded edges to clean the old lacquer from the stem and grooves, but I would just give that grand old lamp a good clean and a full service and make it a user rather than a shelf queen.

Graham has already given sound advice about how to fix that pump.

 

Why the need to attack the column with abrasives ? What's wrong with varnish remover ? You can use an old toothbrush to work it into the grooves. Then use a good metal polish.

The filter can be washed. Either with a proprietry cleaner/degreaser (quickest), or repeated use of clean fuel, or repeated use of very soapy water.

 

......Or even a paint stripper?...Probably won't have to leave it on very long?

Glad you are making progress : )

 

@Kiwiboy00 G'day mate I use polishing wheels on a grinder.
With practice you can turn this old lady into this.

First a cutting compound, then a polishing compound and finally a buffing wheel.
In total 3 different mops and 2 compounds, I'm not sure what colours you have over there, but I use grey first the green.
If you are going to use a polishing wheels its best to practice on something first until you get the results your looking for.
Hope that helps if you want more information in box me.

 

Thank you everyone for all your advise. I’m sorry for such a late reply, I have been working lots due to COVID-19.

Today I finished polishing the tank and cock back to its original state. I have washed the tank and cleaned the fuel tube that runs from the tank to the cock.

Im just hesitant to put the old original cock back on as i no longer have a sock and don’t want to improvise. I was told if i did use it even with the tank clean it would damage and block my vaporiser.

I have the new style cock with a filter that I can use instead, but I really would like to run this lamp with the old cock without the sock. Who has done this for a period of time and any issues doing so ?

Will do more photos once I’ve completed the lamp.

Just want further advise on the old XN cock no sock vs the new cock with filter. This will be a working lamp so don’t want issues with blockages in the vaporiser.

Regards
Darren

 

What date is this lamp, how do I work out the stamping below.

 

??? Whoever told you that ? Utter nonsense.

More nonsense. Over time, carbon will naturally build up inside the vapouriser tube, this is the only thing which will block the vapouriser tube.

If you are referring to the orifice (jet), a filter on the control cock will not stop loose carbon in the vapouriser causing a temporary blockage easily cleared by use of the cleaning needle, after all, that is what it's there for.

However, for peace of mind, you could try putting a small wad of felt in the socket before fitting the control cock. You may have to experiment with the amount. Too much may become compressed to the point where it restricts the flow of fuel when you fit the cock.

That stamping is the Registered Design Number and not a date code. I forget when Tilley stopped stamping it on their lamps. I can't give you a specific date but Tilley stopped using that style of control cock in 1940.

You've made a very good job of cleaning and polishing your TL10, it is a credit to you.