I am new to the world of Tilley lamps, only recently bought my first at auction. I've tried to get it going but it's leaking oil from the pump and I'm wondering if there's supposed to be a rubber seal or similar at the opening where the pump goes in to prevent this
Hi Jane Welcome. There are several washers and small 'pips' that should be part of your overhaul. The leak can be from the pip at the bottom of the pump failing because it has hardened too much and not sealing. Have a look at the site sponsor Fettlebox on the right side of the pages as they can supply what you need. The other washers are in the control cock assembly and they also need replacing along with two small o-rings that go on the spindle of the control cock. The servicing of this unit is not that difficult and you will get a solid working lantern when finished. Iain
Hello Jane and Welcome! As Iain says it’s rare for the seals to work if it has been left a while but with new ones it will come alive Good luck with everything Cheers
Thanks for coming back so fast, appreciate it. I'll go have a look on fettlebox now thank you. It's wild and windy out here today so a proper day to get to grips with the various parts and the how to of servicing. I'm sure it won't take much to get it going because the pressure is building and when I held a rag around the leaky opening the lamp did take off and lit for a while.
Further, @podbros has jolted my memory about the value of a picture. This is the lower pip from the bottom of the pump. if they are hardened you can crack them with a sharp implement and others suggest burning them and they then fall apart easily too. Both methods work.
One of the first tests to apply to a new aquisition is known as a "Dunk" test where you pump the lamp to operating pressure and submerge the font and valves checking as you go for a string of "bubbles" (remove the pump plunger to test pump check valve also)
I've a feeling that rather than a flat disc which sits in the brass cup, the pip in the pump valve (and control cock) will be moulded to sit directly in the end of the spring and look like this. After a quick look on the internet, it seems the only way to get these seals is to buy a complete seal kit.
Welcome to CPL @Jane Finn A picture of the whole lantern will help members identify which model it is and give more accurate help. On the bottom of the tank there may be a series of numbers and letters. Ignore the letters but the numbers are a date code. ie 1066AX = MMYY = October 1966